Russell griffiths Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Hi I’ve just made a name sign for outside our site out of oak and would like to protect it, it’s going to hang on a post like an old pub sign so will be swinging in the wind and rain for a good few years (I hope ) any veiws on a good sealer protector I want it to stay oak coloured and not grey off. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 I use sadolin light oak then 1 or 2 coats of sadolin clear on top. Seems good but osmo oil is supposed to be good too 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 2 hours ago, Russell griffiths said: Hi I’ve just made a name sign for outside our site out of oak and would like to protect it, it’s going to hang on a post like an old pub sign so will be swinging in the wind and rain for a good few years (I hope ) any veiws on a good sealer protector I want it to stay oak coloured and not grey off. Cheers. I’ve just started putting my oak canopy together I used the Omo clear and it’s brought the grain out nicely I’ll add a few decent pictures next weekend 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfb Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 i'm sure it would survive a good few years without any sealer - would certainly look like an old pub sign quicker! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 We have a lot of oak outside and initially treated it with Danish oil. Would never do that again as it has to be recoated every year at least. Currently trying "Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra" which claims longer life. Jury still out. +1 to what Ox07 said... Our front door is oak and is treated with "Sadolins light oak Classic" and "Sadolins Extra Clear". Note: Most of Sadolins products are made in two versions the "Classic" and the "Extra". The Classic is thinner than the Extra. If you were to use the extra version for both it would obscure the oak grain too much. Use one or two thin coats of the classic brushed out well and then the Extra Clear to give it protection. When it needs redoing you just need the Extra Clear only. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpd Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 On 15/01/2018 at 13:52, Temp said: When it needs redoing you just need the Extra Clear only. @Temp i am just wanting to re do some exterior oak and am going to go down the line of “sadolin light oak classic” then the sadolin extra clear my question is, is the extra clear a varnish or a wood preservative? Not sure varnish would work as its a very exposed oak seat, i was “persuaded” by my farther to use danish oil but its completely gone after a year. The oak is now turning silver, not what I wanted. So looking to stain and then protect. Any advise would be great as I am struggling to track down the” extra” in clear wood preservative, natural is the closest I could find. Exposed coastal location. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 (edited) Both the Sadolins Classic and Extra are more like a varnish than a wood stain/preserver. The Extra more so than the Classic. The Extra is quite thick and needs to be brushed out well to get a thin coat which looks better than slapping it on thick. I think I got the Extra Clear from BnQ last time but yes I agree it's hard to find for some reason. I have also used this place... https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/sadolin-extra-durable-clearcoat I think the Natural is brown not clear. Think it would hide the wood grain. We have a lot of exterior oak with several different finishes on it: 1) Sadolins, 2) Danish Oil 3) Osmo UV-Protection oil. 4) Ronseal General Purpose Wood stain We have Sadolins on our oak front door and that's been very good. Been in the house 11 years and it's only been re-coated once so far. However a door is vertical, I don't know how it stands up on horizontal surface like a chair. The Danish oil needs retreating once a year or the horizontal bits go grey/black. Right pain as I need a scaff tower to do mine.. I've started replacing the Danish with the Osmo which they claim lasts twice as long. So far the bits I did a year ago look very good so they might be correct. The Osmo is a bit light in colour so I've been sanding off the damaged Danish and then recoating with 1 Danish and then two coats of Osmo. The Osmo is about twice the price of Danish. Note that not all Danish Oil is rated for outdoor use. The Ronseal General Purpose Wood stain was used on sawn oak cladding on an out building. I spray it on using Hozelok garden water sprayers. Its solvent based so the sprayers don't last long but they are only a bit more expensive than a decent brush but way faster. This also needs recoating every other year or perhaps more frequently. PS: This is also getting hard to find as everything goes VOC free. Edited May 15, 2018 by Temp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 Shaeffers Deck Stain maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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