floor joists into "I"beam

[carlos21]

hi folks,

 

 iam putting part of the new floor/ceiling 7x2 joists into a steel I beam over a new opening, iam just wondering whether its better to notch the timber and rest it on the i beam flange ( 45mm ) or bolt a timber to the web of the i beam and use joist hangers, it seems to me either would work ok, so just wondering if there was a reason for choosing one over the other.

many thanks carl.

[Russell griffiths]

Notching takes time but costs nothing but labour

bolting a plate in needs joist hangers, nails and bolts. 
if your fast and accurate at cutting timber then notch them in. 
 

obviously you can’t make the notch to a size that it takes the strength away from the joist, if this is the case then joist hangers will retain the full size of the joist so retaining the strength rating that it was designed for. 

[carlos21]

cool thanks for the reply, the notch is only 10mm deep so as to make the bottom of the joist flush with the bottom of the i beam.

thanks again,

carl

[saveasteading]

9 hours ago, carlos21 said:

the notch is only 10mm

That's going to be OK. There is no bending stress at the end of a simply supported ( not built in) joist. But be sure to cut neatly and not extend the horizontal cut.

There's another option though: to counterbarten under the joists, or add another layer of plasterboard.

[JohnMo]

59 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

There's another option though: to counterbarten under the joists, or add another layer of plasterboard

To add - You need to assess if the steel is connected to the outside world. If it is this method will allow you to insulate the steel. Notching will have everything flush and leave a cold bridge.

[nod]

There’s only one way Bolt a timber into the beam and use hangers 

It may not fit quite flush You can add a rip of ply to make it fit flush Then a real quick easy job to fix a row of hangers 

[carlos21]

thanks for the replies, given me a bit of food for thought. its all internal so no cold bridging issues as such.

great forum, always pops up when i google building questions, so thought i may as well join up.

carl

[G and J]

14 hours ago, nod said:

There’s only one way Bolt a timber into the beam and use hangers 

It may not fit quite flush You can add a rip of ply to make it fit flush Then a real quick easy job to fix a row of hangers 

The design from our timber frame supplier required hangers onto timber bolted onto the webs.  I did think that notching might be cheaper but it would need noggings to prevent joist movement.  But I decided it was much more sensible just to do as per the design. 
 

Gets boring nailing in all those twist nails though, and gives you sore fingers. 

[nod]

6 hours ago, G and J said:

The design from our timber frame supplier required hangers onto timber bolted onto the webs.  I did think that notching might be cheaper but it would need noggings to prevent joist movement.  But I decided it was much more sensible just to do as per the design. 
 

Gets boring nailing in all those twist nails though, and gives you sore fingers. 

Or hire a gun

[Nickfromwales]

1 hour ago, nod said:

Or hire a gun

A PP (positive placement) gun   

 

These allow you to get the nail into each hole in the hanger accurately, at a decent pace. 

[Mr Punter]

Notching and noggins fitted tightly between the joists is quick and easy.

[carlos21]

update, the joists done, i went with notching as the room wasnt square i wanted to be a bit flexible with the joist spacing, plus i got to play with my new cordless circular saw! feel a bit late to the party, what a lovely tool to use compared to a mains one , so light and quiet.  i did use joist hangers on different parts of the floor and they seemed strong and easy to use.

thanks again for your help.