Downlight Spring Arms

[Spinny]

I will have some ceiling downlights to fit close to joists on two orthogonal sides. I am wondering whether anyone has advice or a wizard wheeze for dealing with the spring arms that hold the downlight up against the plasterboard in this type of situation. Whichever way  I twist the light I will have a spring arm up against a joist without room to spring down.

 

Cut/remove one arm off ? 

Use some kind of putty to hold one side of the light against the ceiling ?

 

 

[nod]

It’s a simple job to move and patch back in with the Corley you have taken out 

[Spinny]

Thanks nod, but I think I've finally had a stroke, cause I don't understand a word of that.

Move and patch back in ? Corley ?

 

(oh wait, do you mean move the downlight position, cut a new hole and fill it with the plasterboard circle cut out of the old hole ? (he guesses)

Can't move the downlight, it is a new ceiling and it needs to go in that location because that is the location it needs to go in.)

Edited Monday at 17:09 by Spinny

[Spinny]

No hole has been cut yet, not boarded yet. Planning ahead. Just trimmed a noggin back today.

 

Just have some kitchen lights that need to go in the right place w.r.t. the kitchen design. Ideally to within 5mm, certainly to within 25mm. 

 

(If we had a vote, how many punters here, or architects, or builders planned for compatibility between the joist layout and the lighting design ? (10% ?))

[-rick-]

25mm likely buys you enough room for the clamp.

 

If you have a row or a grid of lights and have one out of place its going to look awful but if you haven't done any of them yet can't you adjust the overall spacing a touch to create room?

[ProDave]

Have you bought the lights?

 

Some types will fit in the depth of a sheet of plasterboard and so need zero space.

 

Or counter batten and lower the ceiling by 25mm.

[Nickfromwales]

2 hours ago, Spinny said:

(If we had a vote, how many punters here, or architects, or builders planned for compatibility between the joist layout and the lighting design ? (10% ?))

I am always a mile and a half ahead of all this. Nothing worse than getting to the plastered and painted phase and realising feck all works for the lighting layout / install.

 

Do you have a pic of a hole you've cut out so I can understand the problem and suggest a solution?

[Temp]

Some downlights only have two springs 180 apart.

[Nickfromwales]

2 minutes ago, Temp said:

Some downlights only have two springs 180 apart.

I drill a hole with a 16mm hole saw at an angle, very slowly and carefully, slot one of those in, and let the other one flick back as intended.

[JohnMo]

3 hours ago, Spinny said:

Just have some kitchen lights that need to go in the right place w.r.t. the kitchen design. Ideally to within 5mm, certainly to within 25mm

Our original plan was loads of small down lights. We now have 6 in total in the kitchen diner, but they are no longer GU10 sized the are like 4x 200mm and 2x 150mm. Well bright, look more like light tubes in looks. Sorry small spots just look rubbish

 

Use something similar to these https://www.screwfix.com/p/luceco-eco-circular-fixed-led-slim-downlight-white-18w-1530lm/663px

[Nickfromwales]

13 minutes ago, JohnMo said:

Our original plan was loads of small down lights. We now have 6 in total in the kitchen diner, but they are no longer GU10 sized the are like 4x 200mm and 2x 150mm. Well bright, look more like light tubes in looks. Sorry small spots just look rubbish

 

Use something similar to these https://www.screwfix.com/p/luceco-eco-circular-fixed-led-slim-downlight-white-18w-1530lm/663px

Same I use on almost every clients project, but from the Xcite range at City Electrical. Just found them to be more robust, not just the fittings and connectors, but also in terms of where I can go downstream for replacement / warranty / service etc.

 

When we've done more sizeable and 'prestigious' projects I have always invited the client to go and buy 6 or more 'spares' so they can change a light out here and there over the next decade without fear of differing colour temperature and dispersion etc.

[Spinny]

Sketch attached.

Space above the light position is not a problem between the joists. Ideally the light would be slightly under one joist to align centrally with a kitchen wall cupboard, but I can get within 15mm or so and miss the joist. But with two springs at 180 deg, whichever way you twist it, one spring arm will be up against a joist. I guess I'll have to cut one arm off and see if one arm alone will hold it level anyway - or maybe I could wedge it against a small filler on that side between the joist and the light cylinder.

 

Worktop will be 650mm, wall cupboards 370mm, so thinking centre it about 150mm out off the front of the wall cupboard at 520mm ?

 

(I agree about spares, have bought a few spares already. Not fully decided in the open area - something larger than GU10 might be nice - but also contemplating plaster in ones. Want everything dimmable.)

[Nickfromwales]

4 hours ago, Spinny said:

Sketch attached.

Space above the light position is not a problem between the joists. Ideally the light would be slightly under one joist to align centrally with a kitchen wall cupboard, but I can get within 15mm or so and miss the joist. But with two springs at 180 deg, whichever way you twist it, one spring arm will be up against a joist. I guess I'll have to cut one arm off and see if one arm alone will hold it level anyway - or maybe I could wedge it against a small filler on that side between the joist and the light cylinder.

 

Worktop will be 650mm, wall cupboards 370mm, so thinking centre it about 150mm out off the front of the wall cupboard at 520mm ?

 

(I agree about spares, have bought a few spares already. Not fully decided in the open area - something larger than GU10 might be nice - but also contemplating plaster in ones. Want everything dimmable.)

If it's LED then it's going to live a long life. Take the springs off, put a few dots of water based grip fill around the ring, and put a bit of batten in for the night to hold it in place until the GF has gone off. It is what it is.