Spinny Posted July 19 Posted July 19 I effectively need to mount a door on hinges so that the door hangs 12mm in front of the door lining. That is I need a butt hinge with unequal width leaves so that the wider leaf can be screwed into the door lining and the narrower leaf screwed into the edge of the door in the normal way. Thereby presenting the door 12mm forward. Anyone know where I might find such hinges ?
torre Posted July 19 Posted July 19 Do you really need the door forward of the lining when closed or only when opened, to avoid skirting or something? Have you looked at parliament or projection hinges? The leaves are equal but maybe you can offset your drilling positions if you really need to have the door forward of the frame when closed
Spinny Posted July 19 Author Posted July 19 5 minutes ago, torre said: Do you really need the door forward of the lining when closed or only when opened, to avoid skirting or something? Yes it needs to be forward of the lining when closed. In effect there is no door lining as such, the door lining is the timber stud, which then has plasterboard fixed to create the wall surface in front of it. I guess you can think of it like a flush door with no architrave. A normal butt hinge would have to be screwed into the very edge of the timber stud where it would end up breaking out the edge of the stud. I can see that some such hinges exist e.g. for marine cabinets.
ProDave Posted July 19 Posted July 19 Even if there is no door liner and the stud is the "door liner" I don't see why the door cannot be recessed properly. It is the position of the door stop that determines that. Picture or sketch to make it clear?
Temp Posted July 19 Posted July 19 (edited) If you really get stuck perhaps you can cut down large brass Parliament hinges and drill new screw holes in them Edited July 19 by Temp
torre Posted July 19 Posted July 19 So are you trying for a frameless effect like this? That site mentions Tectus hinges
Beau Posted July 19 Posted July 19 If I have understood the problem correctly a parliament hing used as intended would allow the door to clear the plasterboard but would leave the door inset into the opening. As suggested you may well be able to modify a pair to do what you describe
Spinny Posted July 19 Author Posted July 19 (edited) OK - photos and sketch. I am boarding around the existing u/stairs toilet door which hangs from the newel post and had no architrave. Therefore finished wall will be 12-15mm in front of the current hinge point. Best option would seem to be moving the hinge point forward to the new wall position, but screwing into the very edge of the newel post not sensible, therefore need a wider leaf on that side of the hinge. Could make door narrower by fitting new door liner inside the existing timbers but would make the door narrower and shorter - not keen on doing that. Could fit a super thick architrave around the door with the door recessed relative to the wall but will look odd - so not keen on that one. (PS I might keep it as a flush finish without architrave or add architrave as it is on the same wall as architrave less pocket door. But skirting board issues beckon) Edited July 19 by Spinny
Beau Posted July 19 Posted July 19 What are your woodworking skills like? Clean off the paint and glue a 12mm packer all around the existing frame to bring it flush with the plasterboard.
ProDave Posted July 19 Posted July 19 I would just leave the door where it is, and glue a bit of wooden angle bead around the edge of the plasterboard to form a "mini architrave" and paint that to match the door. A bit like my pantry door, except here I was trying to make an ultra thin frame and in my case it is oiled oak bead. 1
Spinny Posted July 20 Author Posted July 20 Quote glue a 12mm packer all around the existing frame to bring it flush with the plasterboard Yes, have seen a youtuber doing that too. However it doesn't move the hinge point forward so the door face doesn't move forward.
dpmiller Posted July 20 Posted July 20 looks like the door won't open much past 90deg so do you *really* need to move the hinge point?
Nickfromwales Posted July 20 Posted July 20 A standard pine architrave will allow you to butt the PB to it and skim, with a bit of architrave still showing, just ask the plasterer to thin it out there. 5 hours ago, Spinny said: Yes, have seen a youtuber doing that too. However it doesn't move the hinge point forward so the door face doesn't move forward. Yes it does, you move the hinge forward and re-drill the screw holes, just add glue and some pins where the hinges will be to stop the new bit of wood parting ways with the original. Sand off the paint when you go to glue wood to wood, or it'll just pop off and take the last layer of paint with it.
Spinny Posted Tuesday at 16:02 Author Posted Tuesday at 16:02 On 20/07/2025 at 20:45, Nickfromwales said: Yes it does, you move the hinge forward and re-drill the screw holes, just add glue and some pins where the hinges will be to stop the new bit of wood parting ways with the original. Wow, is that really going to work for the life of the doorway - the screw holes will end up practically on the join. (In the youtube i watched people were not moving the hinge and accepting of a rebated door front, but personally in a hallway directly adjacent to other doors I don't want to do that and have it look odd.) Most times if you have a problem that could be solved by a suitable hinge, someone has already invented it, the only problem is finding it - he said hopefully, having been too busy phoning eclisse over my pocket door issues to further trawl t'internet.
Beau Posted Tuesday at 18:03 Posted Tuesday at 18:03 1 hour ago, Spinny said: Wow, is that really going to work for the life of the doorway - the screw holes will end up practically on the join. If the glue joint is good it will be as strong as a solid piece of wood.
Nickfromwales Posted Tuesday at 18:58 Posted Tuesday at 18:58 52 minutes ago, Beau said: If the glue joint is good it will be as strong as a solid piece of wood. Yup. 👍 2 hours ago, Spinny said: Wow, is that really going to work for the life of the doorway - the screw holes will end up practically on the join. If you do it as I say to do it, the glued joint will be stronger than the wood. Get the paint off, glue and clamp it as best you can (clamping over a straight edge such as a good box spirit level is best) and make sure to leave for 48hrs for the glue to go off completely. Try gluing two bits random bits of pine together with the same method, and then trying to get them apart, and you’ll have your answer
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now