Are some snots and caps a problem on the inside of a new brick wall?

[Iceverge]

1 hour ago, Bounce said:

They have agreed to rectify it from tomorrow. I think they are potentially going to take the blocks (inner skin) down and relay them, with the insulation attached properly. Do you think this possible? 

 

 

 

No is my firm answer. It's real life here I'm afraid and Like I say, I've never seen it done correctly before. I think you'll repeat the mistake but just slightly less bad as the rigid board system in the wall is fundamentally flawed. 

 

Get yourself down to a BM's and buy some 100mm wool cavity batts. You can get to a K value of 0.032 W/mK but you're gaining very little over the ones at 0.035 or 0.036 for the extra spend. 

 

 

 

Something like this would be fine. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Iceverge]

Alternatively you may be able to remove the existing boards without taking the walls completely down and use EPS bonded beads injected into the wall instead. 

 

I know the builders did a sloppy job but you have some responsibility for QCing the situation too. 

 

In this light the overall cheapest and most workable solution is in your interest as much as the builders. 

 

Any wider pics of the built wall will help us all determine how most satisfactorily to proceed. 

 

Like I say, please post any further pics of the plans, most specifically the sectional drawings to help us help you for the rest of the project . 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[saveasteading]

Blocks down, keep the ties in place, break off snots and remove,  repoint the brick inner face.

Hand the bricky a picture of how it should be.

build block with insulation.

 

Does that mean that the insulation is tight to the blockwork and a gap to the brick?

[Bounce]

48 minutes ago, Iceverge said:

Alternatively you may be able to remove the existing boards without taking the walls completely down and use EPS bonded beads injected into the wall instead. 

 

I know the builders did a sloppy job but you have some responsibility for QCing the situation too. 

 

In this light the overall cheapest and most workable solution is in your interest as much as the builders. 

 

Any wider pics of the built wall will help us all determine how most satisfactorily to proceed. 

 

Like I say, please post any further pics of the plans, most specifically the sectional drawings to help us help you for the rest of the project . 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Do you mean photos like this? 

 

I will try upload sectional drawings too. 

 

[Bounce]

Just now, Bounce said:

Do you mean photos like this? 

 

I will try upload sectional drawings too. 

 

[Iceverge]

Spot on. 

 

Right here's my proposal. 

 

Pull out the boards, done carefully they can be reused elsewhere. Like I've said a billion times they can't be done properly in the wall. You may need to dismantle some of the wall but probably not all of it. 

 

Build your walls as an empty cavity.  Ensure the cavity is kept clean and bricks correctly pointed. Best way to do this is slide in a 100mm board at a few opening's to catch the snots. With a squirty hose give the ties a quick rinse at the end of every day. At the end of the build pull out the 100mm cavity boards. 

 

Use EPS blown beads to fill later on. Your theoretical U value will drop from about 0.22 to 0.33 but as you won't get any thermal looping ( wind blowing around the board) your real world performance will be better. 

 

You can reuse the wall boards in the floor so no extra cost. In fact you'll save money on the construction as EPS beads are quite economic. (About €120/m³ plus Vat in Ireland) 

 

 

[Roger440]

Iceverge is spot on here. Its what id be doing in this situation.

 

Out in the real world, without exceptional levels of detailing, this can never work.

 

Ive seen a coule of videos by builders showing, proudly, that they have fitted this stuff. And whilst not as poor as this effort, its clear to anyone that the air will get behind the insulation.

 

Sadly, the BCO, nor anyone else except the OP, has any vested interest in the thermal performance of the completed building. So long as the boxes are ticked, thats all that matters.

[Bounce]

2 hours ago, Iceverge said:

Spot on. 

 

Right here's my proposal. 

 

Pull out the boards, done carefully they can be reused elsewhere. Like I've said a billion times they can't be done properly in the wall. You may need to dismantle some of the wall but probably not all of it. 

 

Build your walls as an empty cavity.  Ensure the cavity is kept clean and bricks correctly pointed. Best way to do this is slide in a 100mm board at a few opening's to catch the snots. With a squirty hose give the ties a quick rinse at the end of every day. At the end of the build pull out the 100mm cavity boards. 

 

Use EPS blown beads to fill later on. Your theoretical U value will drop from about 0.22 to 0.33 but as you won't get any thermal looping ( wind blowing around the board) your real world performance will be better. 

 

You can reuse the wall boards in the floor so no extra cost. In fact you'll save money on the construction as EPS beads are quite economic. (About €120/m³ plus Vat in Ireland) 

 

 

Thanks appreciate that info.. 

 

In regards to saving money, they are supplying all the materials etc, so any additional costs for this, will be paid for by them, I just want to make sure it's all done correctly. 

[Canski]

My opinion as a bricklayer who cares about insulation 😂😂

what they have done is awful. That insulation needs the joints taping and then clipping back hard against the blockwork. This can only be done with the blockwork built first.

 

I would let them ( as they have agreed to do) take the blockwork down and rebuild with full fill cavity bats. You will be left with a load of waste insulation for the skip but that is the best place for it. The cost of this waste insulation should be deducted from their payment. Any bricky worth his salt should know how it is fitted and if not should have researched it before the crash bang whallop. They won’t be able to tape the joints with the brickwork up. It is possible to use the existing insulation  without taping and get it tight against the blockwork but you would have to stand there and watch them. 

[crispy_wafer]

If you take the approach above, i'd pile up the PIR and sell it, facebook marketplace, someone will have it, and you'll get some money back.  Couple or 3 boards for £20 or so, I found people are fitting it into sheds, and allsorts when I sold a load of offcuts over autumn/winter last year..

[Canski]

7 hours ago, crispy_wafer said:

If you take the approach above, i'd pile up the PIR and sell it, facebook marketplace, someone will have it, and you'll get some money back.  Couple or 3 boards for £20 or so, I found people are fitting it into sheds, and allsorts when I sold a load of offcuts over autumn/winter last year..

 

Good advice and well worth a try. Personally I wouldn't even use it in a shed 🙂