Tightened one joint, neighbouring one leaking!

[Andehh]

So I've had a very slow leak for several months, losing probably 1-2bar a month during summer.... Triple that now that winters hit.

 

The system is a 250sqm UFH system and 12kw ASHP.

 

I'm my infinite wisdom I tried to nip the joint up this morning, sealing the original leaking joint (white tip on it) but now the neighbouring one just to the left of it is dripping. I'm not losing 2 bar a day via a slow drip.

 

I'm now trying to debate my next steps. Calling out a plumber over the next couple weeks (peak season?) or trying it again... But I don't want to make the situation any worse.

 

 

I'm tempted (!!) to just nip the left one up, bracing off the large drain valve (?)... But will this impact the original leak point (white tip on it).

 

I had it all armaflexed up, and stripped it back....temp replaced some, hence so much black insulation everywhere!

 

Any suggestions? Thanks

[ProDave]

Which bit did you rotate to stop the first leak?  The nut on the right with the white bit, or the lighter coloured middle bit?

[Andehh]

Nut on the right with the white bit is what I nipped up. The middle bit I think I braced off, but the more I think about it... I may have been clamping off the large brass drain valve bit furthest left in the picture.

 

The weep is now on the thread between middle ring and this left brass drain valve.

[Andehh]

My worry is if I clamp the brass valve, and the middle section and nip it tight... What happens to the clamp with the white bit on it... Which I originally nipped up. It will likely rotate as well?

 

This (white bit) is connected to a slight corner peice which itself is clamped onto the plastic hose which drops down via the subfloor to the ASHP. This joint is difficult to get to so disturbingly it would be an issue. Hence my concern, way to approach this.

 

 

Fortunately I've got accident damage cover on my home insurance....

[dpmiller]

need to slacken the right nut to let the fitting rotate, tighten the brass fitting, then nip the nut up again

[nod]

I would be inclined to isolate it and replace the fitting 

Usually less hassle in the long run 

[joe90]

7 minutes ago, nod said:

I would be inclined to isolate it and replace the fitting 

Usually less hassle in the long run 

Yes, if the olive is not sitting right no end of tightening will help, use a jointing compound to lubricate the olive/nut junction.

[nod]

41 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Yes, if the olive is not sitting right no end of tightening will help, use a jointing compound to lubricate the olive/nut junction.

A good example is a fitting seeped on our HP install They came out twice and drained and re packed it The third time they replaced fitting Maybe a duff thread 

[Onoff]

Back it off smear with Jet Blue Plus & re tighten. Worked for me on an 8bar incomer.

 

 

 

I use it religiously now on compression fittings. No messing around with PTFE tape. It just works and the joints never weep / go green. 

[joe90]

33 minutes ago, nod said:

Maybe a duff thread 

However on these fittings it’s the olive that produces the seal, it annoys me (OCD) with people that put PTFE tape on all threads 🤷‍♂️

[Onoff]

The Jet Blue Plus (other similar products are available) acts as both a seal and lubricant on brass compression joints. The fitting doesn't make that horrible squeak when doing it up and screws up a tad more. 

[scottishjohn]

3 hours ago, joe90 said:

However on these fittings it’s the olive that produces the seal, it annoys me (OCD) with people that put PTFE tape on all threads 🤷‍♂️

If you want to use something then liquid PTFE

[sharpener]

On 24/11/2024 at 10:53, joe90 said:

However on these fittings it’s the olive that produces the seal, it annoys me (OCD) with people that put PTFE tape on all threads 🤷‍♂️

 

Too right. I usually put a single drop of 3-in-1 oil on the threads, it means more of the torque you apply gets transformed into axial force on the nut/olive/pipe interface which is the bit that matters.