Fine tuning my IWI Solid wall (Warm Batten) design

[Iceverge]

34 minutes ago, Annker said:

so that all points me towards using metal studding.

 

It's dead straight on the pro side. 

 

On the negative side it is very conductive so ensure that the bottom of it is isolated from the cold. Be careful with wiring too that it doesn't get stripped by the metal. You might need to tie any studs metal or timber to the wall at an intermediate level if it feels wobbly. 

 

34 minutes ago, Annker said:

With that in mind I'm unsure how mineral wool batts could be kept in place, tight against the face of the brickwork

 

Get batts slightly thicker than the cavity thickness and wider than the gap between the studs. They'll just stay there then when you put them in.

 

Mineral wool on rolls won't. You'll need batts. 

[Iceverge]

I made a video, but I'm not happy with it. I'll remake later if I can escape my family for 30 mins. 

[lookseehear]

There's also the SWIP system which has insulating studs which can be pulled plumb and close off the gaps between studs and wall, however they might not work if you can't fix to the wall.

 

See Charlie DIYte on YouTube for a video demonstration.

[Annker]

I'm unsure if an Open Vapour buildup should be modelled in Ubakus, but when it is it shows a condensation risk.

Is that what we should expect and accept on the proviso that been vapour open the condensation can dry to the inside?

 

 

 

Same buildup but with the inclusion of Intello Plus VCL. @Redbeard I believe you were suggesting the inclusion of a VCL?

 

[Annker]

2 minutes ago, lookseehear said:

There's also the SWIP system which has insulating studs which can be pulled plumb and close off the gaps between studs and wall, however they might not work if you can't fix to the wall.

 

See Charlie DIYte on YouTube for a video demonstration.

I've seen that system/video. I think the princple is broadly OK but I hope to be able to produce a more robust install myself and at a lower price.

[lookseehear]

Just now, Annker said:

I've seen that system/video. I think the princple is broadly OK but I hope to be able to produce a more robust install myself and at a lower price.

 

Same! It really feels like we're searching for the same solution here - at least we'll have some safety in numbers!

[lookseehear]

17 hours ago, Iceverge said:

The parge is a mix of sand lime cement in the ratio 3:2:1.

 

What kind of Lime would you specify - quicklime? hydrated non-hydraulic? NHL 2/3.5? Thank you so much for making a video - I know that I and others will get a lot of value from it. 

[Redbeard]

I leave out the cement. I use a lot of Baumit products and would use probably RK38, or RK 70 if you have any left over from anything else (the latter being finer). Alternatively you could use plastering sand and lime putty - the advantage over bagged lime being that putty will keep for years as long as there is water over it - stops it absorbing CO2

[Redbeard]

24 minutes ago, Annker said:

 

Same buildup but with the inclusion of Intello Plus VCL. @Redbeard I believe you were suggesting the inclusion of a VCL?

 

Yes, I was, on the basis if mineral wool potentially being less moisture-buffering than wood-fibre. I like (expensive!) Intello as it's good for pessimists (tends to become more vapour-open in warmer weather so that *if* any moisture has got in during the winter it may be able to 'breathe' back out).

[Annker]

1 minute ago, Redbeard said:

 

Yes, I was, on the basis if mineral wool potentially being less moisture-buffering than wood-fibre. I like (expensive!) Intello as it's good for pessimists (tends to become more vapour-open in warmer weather so that *if* any moisture has got in during the winter it may be able to 'breathe' back out).

Yes its pricey but anything done at this stage will certainly be cheaper than rectifying works after decoration is done, its along that line of thinking that I'm happy to sell on my already purchased PIR at a loss.

 

WRT to using RK38. Do you use it neat by its self or with sand as a replacement for the lime in the parge coat. 

 

[Redbeard]

7 minutes ago, Annker said:

WRT to using RK38. Do you use it neat by its self or with sand as a replacement for the lime in the parge coat. 

 

RK38 and RK70 are lime/sand mixes, ready to use, with about 6mth shelf life (some say a year but I have had a few lumps lately!).