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fitting seals on 300mm twin drainge pipes to bends


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Iknow i,m getting old and weak .

but has anybody got a good trick for fitting bends using the seals  

I cannot gte enough push to make them go in 

striaght joiners  --no problem  but the bends are a tighter fit and just will not go inwith seals fitted

 

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They also sell some special lubricant although I'd be tempted to use washing up liquid otherwise. Can you twist them in by rotating on the axis of the installed pipe?

 

It can get pretty messy when you're down a muddy hole wrestling pipe 😄. I know it's easy to say 'ensure the pipe & seal area is clean' but any mud, grit etc will increase the friction by loads.

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I saw an old ground worker put a couple of ribbons of duck tape a foot back from the end to give something to grip on. 

 

Seems like a really simple and easy trick that must do wonders. 

 

He put it on before getting down in the dusty trench though

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Posted (edited)

tried all those things --  just too much pressure required to compress the seals to make them go in 

 

even just fitting the bend direct to pipe are quite tight  so twisting them is a no go really 

 

so my next trial is to use some huge "c" type welding mole grips to try to work them in a bit at  a time --gripping onthe ribs on the outside and the lip of the bend--I hope 

 the ones I have managed to get in  take all my body weight to swivel them round to change the angle

 maybe htere is some special tool to compress the pipe and bend together --other than the hulk

 

Edited by scottishjohn
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7 minutes ago, Alan Ambrose said:

They also sell some special lubricant although I'd be tempted to use washing up liquid otherwise. Can you twist them in by rotating on the axis of the installed pipe?

 

It can get pretty messy when you're down a muddy hole wrestling pipe 😄. I know it's easy to say 'ensure the pipe & seal area is clean' but any mud, grit etc will increase the friction by loads.

I,m working with a live water stream as well

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2 minutes ago, FuerteStu said:

I saw an old ground worker put a couple of ribbons of duck tape a foot back from the end to give something to grip on. 

 

Seems like a really simple and easy trick that must do wonders. 

 

He put it on before getting down in the dusty trench though

could you be more expnatory of what he actually did ?

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I have a serious suspicon that famers do not use the seals --I say that cos the last ones had green surface mould on them -- and they cost more  to use them

 

 and if you just using them as field drains probably not a problem --any leaks will probably seal up with the mud and sand that come down them over time 

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13 minutes ago, scottishjohn said:

could you be more expnatory of what he actually did ?

He did a couple of circles around the pipe about a foot back from the end. Plastic isn't great for getting a grip on, but the tape is textured so the push and twist is easier. You don't have to squeeze as hard to hold onto it. 

 

 

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I wonder whether the seals you have are correct for the pipe you’re using. Maybe the existing pipe is an old imperial size or something? For general groundwater drainage I don’t see much wrong with using, say, epdm rope or even no seals at all. In a recent thread, I found the existing 300mm twinwall had been squashed so was wider than it was high. I have not completed that job yet but anticipate using ratchet straps / levering with a fork on either side to make it rounder. That’s not your problem? I did spend a couple of hours measuring everything v carefully before I figured out what was going on. Another possibility are the rubber joiners - there are asymmetrical ones of those i.e. 300mm to 300+x. See:

 

 

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this is what I have come up with 

use one smallratchet around pipe to ancor another one 

then do same around bend 

then pull them together 

need another man to do it so cannot do it today 

 also showing water flow today --which is just above average summer flow-1/2 tp 3/4 full in winter

water flow.jpg

300mm ratchet fitting.jpg

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4 hours ago, Alan Ambrose said:

I wonder whether the seals you have are correct for the pipe you’re using. Maybe the existing pipe is an old imperial size or something? For general groundwater drainage I don’t see much wrong with using, say, epdm rope or even no seals at all. In a recent thread, I found the existing 300mm twinwall had been squashed so was wider than it was high. I have not completed that job yet but anticipate using ratchet straps / levering with a fork on either side to make it rounder. That’s not your problem? I did spend a couple of hours measuring everything v carefully before I figured out what was going on. Another possibility are the rubber joiners - there are asymmetrical ones of those i.e. 300mm to 300+x. See:

 

 

Ihave come ot the conculsion that there ideed by different seals for fitting bends ,as Ihave 2 different shaped ones  now --will follow it up and report

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Posted (edited)

as far as i can see all different makers only supply one type of seal for straight joiners and bends 

but the bends are alwasy a tigher fit on pipe than a straight joiner 

 but different makers have different shapes 

Edited by scottishjohn
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I have found that one of the differentiators between the big brands and the others is the ease of connecting.

It doesn't matter too much on straight runs but does with bends.

Does that make them worth the price doubling? Maybe if you count the time.

Lesser known (here) makes from abroad can be OK too.

We used Funke from the local drainage merchant. Decent price and easy joints.

 

Go to the drainage merchants and be annoying in finding what works well. It's likely that all their makes are good.

 

For a one off you can feather the spigot end with a file, then once started it should slide in with a squirt of detergent.

Edited by saveasteading
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2 hours ago, saveasteading said:

For a one off you can feather the spigot end with a file, then once started it should slide in with a squirt of detergent.

straight lengths --no problem its the bends which  are  brett martin --a very well known make ,that the problem is on

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1 minute ago, saveasteading said:

twice the price and still a pain? I withdraw my suggestion that they are easier.

they will go inwith the ratchet strap method  of that i,m sure --not sure iwill be able to swivel them if needed

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7 minutes ago, scottishjohn said:

-not sure I will be able to swivel them

This sounds like a manufacturing issue. Half a mm will make all the difference. I wonder if pipes get wider or thinner as moulds wear out?

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49 minutes ago, scottishjohn said:

It could be a little better than washibng up liquid ,but doubt its a game changer

you might be surprised. Using silicone grease can result in things not wanting to stay together, in my experience. It's Very Slippery stuff...

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In that case, I would either use no seal at all or EPDM rope smaller than your existing seal. In industry, it’s fairly common to make up your own o-rings. The unknown is what make the existing pipe is, so the seal for that could be different to the elbows you’re using.

Edited by Alan Ambrose
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