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Scratched a UFH pipe...what to do?


Bitpipe

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Long story short - joiner laid the plywood sub floor above the OSB in readiness for the resin pour next week. One layer of 9mm glued & screwed with 12mm laid on top. We then discovered a squeak which we investigated today by lifting the ply in the  affected area. Looks like the OSB is moving slightly against the joist, it did get wet when exposed over winter. Anyway, that's not the pressing issue!

Some of the UFH pipes come above the OSB (to allow them to return over the pozi joists) and one got scratched with a multitool :(

image1 (8).JPG

Looks superficial and only the outer layer seems to be scratched not the alu underneath but want to take the correct remedial action none the less.

So what to do? I have a bunch of the 16mm->15mm converters so could patch with a short piece of copper, or is there a better approach. Or am I just being paranoid and is it best left alone..?

Need to decide quickly as we need to relay the sub floor.

 

 

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You can buy a 16mm to 16mm coupler to make a repair in one go, I have two here in fact. If you can't find them locally and quickly, TP sell adaptors to fit a standard 15mm compression fitting to take 16mm pipe, so a 15mm compression straight coupler and two of these adaptors will do the same thing.

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I've got two 16mm repair couplings (like this) lying around - somewhere! - if you need to get hold of one quickly.  I need them to repair my UFH leak but that isn't going to happen for a while due to general busy-ness.

That said, the scratch doesn't seem too bad to me.  You might also ask yourself whether a coupling is more or less likely to fail than a scratched pipe.  

Also, it doesn't sound like there's a way to keep this portion of the pipe accessible for inspection and maintenance in the future, but at the very least you should record its position so you can get to it quickly in the event it eventually leaks.

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Cut the affected section out now and repair it accordingly. I'd use 2 connectors, 1 a  foot or so before the scratch, and another at the same distance after it. That will see the connectors located in a joist void ( rather at this high point where it loops ) so therefore accessible from underneath if ever so required. 

The straight 16x16 connectors are bulletproof and I've buried many under screed / in boxing in etc where nuggets have damaged laid pipe etc. Not once have I had a leak, or any other such issue, when fitted properly.

Keep the connectors in the adjoining voids and get the damaged section out now ;) Pressure test it at the incoming mains pressure and tell the Womble with the multi tool to use a circular with depth stop next time :S:S:S

 

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Thanks all - to be fair, he did use a circular saw with depth stop up to that point but needed the multi tool to just get the last cut in. He was very sheepish as he'd been so careful to avoid the pipes while laying the floor. Anyway, these things happen.

The affected area is accessible from underneath as it's just above where we'll be putting some alcove cupboards in the basement, that said do I still need to use two two as that will mean lifting more of the floor.

Is this a job to get the plumber out for? 

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4 minutes ago, Bitpipe said:

Thanks all - to be fair, he did use a circular saw with depth stop up to that point but needed the multi tool to just get the last cut in. He was very sheepish as he'd been so careful to avoid the pipes while laying the floor. Anyway, these things happen.

The affected area is accessible from underneath as it's just above where we'll be putting some alcove cupboards in the basement, that said do I still need to use two two as that will mean lifting more of the floor.

Is this a job to get the plumber out for? 

I'd say do it yourself. Make sure you cut the pipe with proper pipe cutters. I bought this dirt cheap pair from S'fix and they do in fact leave a lovely clean cut:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/plastic-pipe-cutter-26mm/59590

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1 hour ago, Bitpipe said:

Thanks all - to be fair, he did use a circular saw with depth stop up to that point but needed the multi tool to just get the last cut in. He was very sheepish as he'd been so careful to avoid the pipes while laying the floor. Anyway, these things happen.

A very similar situation to what's led to me needing to do a repair.  Our electrician, by far the most conscientious and eco-knowledgeable guy on site, accidentally nicked a UFH pipe when put under pressure to install piece of protective steel immediately prior to our polished concrete being laid.  Poor guy was mortified, but as you say, these things happen.  

I plan to use two 16 x 16 connectors with a loop of UFH pipe in the middle (no room for a straight section) so that both joints have perfectly aligned incoming pipes on both sides.

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We fixed it today and two connectors were definitely required to get two straight connections. Offered up just the one initially for curiosity and the O-ring was definitely not sitting flat on the fitting. Pressure tested using our incoming mains (more that 3 bar) for an hour and dry as a bone so re-laid the floor and all ready for resin on Monday.

Thanks for all the help and to Jeremy for kindly supplying the connectors.

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