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Cheap stove flue pipe supplier needed


ProDave

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I'm putting a stove in the caravan.  I have the stove, I need the flue.

 

5" flue out of the top of the stove.

 

What I am needing I believe is:

 

Two 45 degree single wall bends (to offset the flue to avoid going up through a rafter)

Single to twin wall connector.

Total 3 metres twin wall flue, 2 lengths of 1.5 metre?

Ceiling trim to cover the hole cut in the ceiling

Drip collar to go above roof penetration  *

Cowl / rain cover to go on the top.

 

I am looking for the cheapest supplier for this lot so calling on the collective to tell me who you have found that is cheap.

 

If it happens to be very close to the route from Inverness to Aberystwyth, then SWMBO could collect when she goes down shortly to visit her sister and save on delivery cost.

 

* I don't think I need a roof flashing. It's an aluminium roof on the 'van so I am planning to cut a hole smaller than the flue diameter, swage the edge up thus forming a "gutter" and then just a rain cowl above it to stop rain running down the pipe entering.

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Dektite rubber flashings are so cheap that it would be silly not to use one.

I got my flue bits from eBay for the single wall, and a company called SNH for the twin wall.

It was a bit of a logistical nightmare working out the cheapest suppliers as some had low prices on pipe, other on the various fittings, and it was a case of seeing what worked out cheapest overall- including postage costs.

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This lot are the cheapest so far https://www.flue-pipes.com/ Even offering free delivery having entered my postcode

 

Re the flashing. It's a plain aluminium roof. It's not like a tiled roof where the uphill tile sits over the top of the flashing.  I might still use one to stop water running down the pipe but it will do nothing to stop water that runs down the roof and under the flashing, hence my idea to swage the edge of the hole upwards and seal with sealant (that appears to be how the gas fire flue is sealed to the roof)

 

It's still hurting that even for this short flue, the flue is going to cost more than the stove.

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I have got my complete kit down to £250.  Twin wall flue from the above link £47 per metre, Free delivery, even it would appear to the Highlands on orders over £110 (we will see if that changes when I hit the button)

 

Not looking forward to the very much longer runs of flue if we put stoves in the house.

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Well I have placed my order with Flue-pipes.com I will let you know how I find them.

 

I first phoned 2 local suppliers, and both were double the price for a length of twin wall flue pipe so it was not even worth discussing all the other bits I needed with them.

 

I noted that flue-pipes.com are based in Malta but have a UK phone number, are priced in GBP and VAT is charges at the UK rate of 20%. I don't know if I should be worried by their location or not.  I paid by credit card so should not have any worries.

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As far as I saw it's all very simple kit...basically two bits of stainless steel tube with some sort of insulating fibre in between. Each end has a self locking joining band that snaps closed rather like an old suitcase clasp.

Not sure how an untrained eye could vouch for the quality/thickness of the steel or the properties of the insulation though...

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22 minutes ago, Tennentslager said:

As far as I saw it's all very simple kit...basically two bits of stainless steel tube with some sort of insulating fibre in between. Each end has a self locking joining band that snaps closed rather like an old suitcase clasp.

Not sure how an untrained eye could vouch for the quality/thickness of the steel or the properties of the insulation though...

I'll let you know about the quality when I light the stove for the first time.

 

And yes it is all very simple stuff so why the high prices?

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I was quoted £2500 for the supply of the flue (approx 9 metres) and installation of flue and stove (putting stove on concrete base). This did not include the cost of the stove or boxing in the stove and flue.

 

A crazy price for what I would imaging would be 1 days work and £500 - £1000 in materials.

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I paid just over £300 for my flue bits, from www.snhuk.co.uk (no connection etc etc)

This was enough to do almost all of the installation. I had to add a second silicone flashing designed to tie in with the VCB/airtightness membrane, which this supplier didn't stock.

Oh and as a correction to what I stated earlier, I actually didn't end up getting anything from eBay.

Quality wise it seems fine- it's all Spanish made Convesa stuff.

 

I later added a roof brace which I made from some stainless angle iron, this worked out at a fraction of the cost of a purpose-made kit, and considerably stronger too (deeper section steel, no telescopic sections with grub screws to work loose).

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My flue-pipes.com flue arrived today. Heavily over packed and on  pallet, and delivered in a 30t truck that had trouble with our little road. But very quick delivery

 

It all looks good and as I expected.

 

Now I am just starting to piece it together, I have one issue, the interface from the stove to the first bit of pipe:

 

stove_joint.thumb.jpg.9b51010e82265898e73d112afad593be.jpg

The 2 45 degree bends fit together snug as they do into the adapter and into the twin wall.

 

But where the first bit of pipe fit into the top flange on the stove, it is a loose fit, probably 2-3mm all round.

 

What do I fill it with? Fire cement? fire rope? or some high temperature sealant out of a gun?

 

 

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Next question,

 

when making the hole in the roof, do I have to treat the glass wool insulation in the ceiling as "flamable" and cut it back further? or is it okay for the glass wool to touch the outside of the twin wall flue?

 

(I am guessing glass wool is not flamable but want to be sure)

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Glass wool (unfaced) from all the major manufacturers is normally classed as non-conbustible. If there is a facing (or encapsulation) such as paper or polythene this will burn. Loft insulation is generally not faced or encapsulated (some are!)

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I will leave my options open. I won't put the ceiling cover plate on until I see in practice how hot the outside wall of the top twin section flue really gets.

 

It's yellow looking old style bare glass wool.

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19 minutes ago, ProDave said:

 

I will leave my options open. I won't put the ceiling cover plate on until I see in practice how hot the outside wall of the top twin section flue really gets.

 

It's yellow looking old style bare glass wool.

 

It likely won't get very hot at all.

On my stove, I can put my hand on the *single wall* flue if I reach up above head height (closer to the stove it's much hotter obviously).

The reason for all of these safety considerations is that if you have a chimney fire, you can get 1200degC instead of the c.200degC that you get in normal operation. If you are only considering normal operational temperatures, you could get away with a heck of a lot.

 

Is that the Burley by the way? The flue temperature is exceptionally low on these (because of the high efficiency).

 

As to the original question- I don't think there's anything wrong with glass wool touching the outside of the twin wall... try setting some on fire and see what happens... I think I did leave a slight gap though when I did mine.

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The (almost) finished item

 

stove_1.thumb.jpg.9c26437e19834ed15277b8c1fd388ee8.jpg

The stove is a cheap Chinese Kresnick from woodburner world, 4Kw I don't expect it to be particularly efficient.

 

The granite slabs it sits on are offcuts from worktops I got from freecycle ages ago, at last I have found a use for them.  The back one and the one up the side of the unit have an air gap behind them.

 

stove_2.thumb.jpg.5157cbdcaae851879a41dcba724a1110.jpg

 

I just lit some cardboard in it just to make sure it draws okay, better wait for that fire cement before I fire it up properly.

 

And here's the flue. It's raining now and it doesn't seem to leak.

 

stove_flue.thumb.jpg.9668545fb1a3173190b42456abfaa8e0.jpg

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