Fixing metal studs on top of UFH

[iMCaan]

Hi

 

We had 50mm liquid screed poured a couple of weeks ago. We now need to build metal frame stud walls to make bathrooms.

 

What would be the best option to attach the metal frame to the screed?

Option 1: Adhesive - What would be the best adhesive to stick metal frame to the screeded floor? 
Option 2: Lay concrete common brick 65mm (without Frog) onto the screed and then screw in the metal frame to the concrete common brick.

 

Thanks

[Russell griffiths]

Do some testing 

the pink grip is good on screed, I had to get a bit up and it actually removed chunks of the screed. 
 

your week point is the metal track to the glue, I would use a polyurethane like stixall extreme power. 
 

your second idea is ludicrous, forget that very quickly. 

[iMCaan]

Thanks @Russell griffiths

 

What do you think about using dustproofer and hardener on the screed and then using the stixall extreme?

 

Thanks

[nod]

1 hour ago, iMCaan said:

Hi

 

We had 50mm liquid screed poured a couple of weeks ago. We now need to build metal frame stud walls to make bathrooms.

 

What would be the best option to attach the metal frame to the screed?

Option 1: Adhesive - What would be the best adhesive to stick metal frame to the screeded floor? 
Option 2: Lay concrete common brick 65mm (without Frog) onto the screed and then screw in the metal frame to the concrete common brick.

 

Thanks

I normally use the same glue that comes with the Cabba deck Then cut your studs tight 

 

[Russell griffiths]

1 hour ago, iMCaan said:

Thanks @Russell griffiths

 

What do you think about using dustproofer and hardener on the screed and then using the stixall extreme?

 

Thanks

Your problem is the glue to the metal, not the glue to screed, good hoover and it’s ready. 

[iMCaan]

@nod did use timber or mf?

 

Time to buy stixall extreme power test tube. They claim it sticks metal and concrete.

[crispy_wafer]

anything in the screed? ufh pipes?

[saveasteading]

25 minutes ago, Russell griffiths said:

Your problem is the glue to the metal

Good point. Sometimes galvanised steel has a paraffin coating to ease it through the factory rolling process. So it's worth a wipe beforehand.

 

[iMCaan]

@crispy_wafer yes, UFH pipes.

 

@saveasteading thanks

[markc]

Put the adhesive down where it will push up into the holes and slots then it doesn’t need to stick to the metal. There won’t (shouldn’t be) any lift so any forces on the bottom track will be sliding/shearing. The adhesive squeezed up into the track holes/slots will prevent any side to side movement.

Edited March 12 by markc

[nod]

4 hours ago, iMCaan said:

Thanks @Russell griffiths

 

What do you think about using dustproofer and hardener on the screed and then using the stixall extreme?

 

Thanks

I use mf everyday as part of my business We often stick the track down I’ve used all sorts OVS the past 30 plus years The timber floor glue is great 

[scottishjohn]

18 hours ago, Russell griffiths said:

Your problem is the glue to the metal, not the glue to screed, good hoover and it’s ready. 

there are plenty of adhesives that work on steel 

like sixaflex --that sticks your car windscreen in

all you will need is an adhesion promoter primer 

I used to replace part body  panels on cars with it - so idid not have to distrub the weldsand sealing of them 

 the lotus alluminimum chassis are stuck together with it 

If you can,t find it ring your local windscreen company and ask them --maybe they will give you some ? or speak to SIKA tech dept --they will sort you out

 

 

[iMCaan]

Apologies for late reply.

 

I tested stixall extreme power on mf, wood and concrete block. Solid stick.

Test 1 - used a piece of mf (had a tiny ~1mm lip on the adhesive side too). Applied stixall and placed it on top of the concrete block a brick on top of the mf to hold it down.

Test 2 - used an even smaller and thinner piece of mf (quite flimsy compared to above). Applied stixall on one side and placed it on top of the concrete block. This time I didn't put any weight on top of the mf piece to hold it down.

Test 3 - used a piece of wood and concrete brick on top of it to hold it down.

 

Left it to cure overnight. 

 

All tests were successful, very solid. Only test 2 had a little play and I was able to see the clear adhesive between the two materials. This was probably because there was no weight to hold down the mf. It was still a strong grip.

 

In all three tests, I could pick up the concrete block from mf/wood.

 

Thank you.

 

 

Edited March 19 by iMCaan