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Copper or Plastic


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16 minutes ago, Huckleberrys said:

Soldered or press fit fittings are so much safer than push fit plastic

 

What do you think of Tectite Sprint vs press fit? I know the latter are very popular now for professionals, but for DIY the tools are prohibitively expensive. And for a small job Tectite are very convenient.

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29 minutes ago, sharpener said:

 

What do you think of Tectite Sprint vs press fit? I know the latter are very popular now for professionals, but for DIY the tools are prohibitively expensive. And for a small job Tectite are very convenient.

I can't say I have ever used it...the press is fantastic though, rarely solder now. 

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58 minutes ago, sharpener said:

Tectite Sprint vs press fit

For the DIY'er the best thing since sliced bread. Tectite Classic can be taken apart and remade several times without issue (slight cost increase), sprint one use only. I like that once made up the joint can be rotated.

 

I've used loads , had one leak due to the copper not being inserted square and it didn't push home correctly.

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46 minutes ago, JohnMo said:

had one leak due to the copper not being inserted square and it didn't push home correctly

 

I guess marking the pipe with the intended depth works just as well as it does for Yorkshire and compression fittings.

 

49 minutes ago, JohnMo said:

Tectite Classic can be taken apart and remade several times without issue

 

But ugly in comparison. Have only used once but the Sprint looks almost as neat as Yorkshire.

 

From choice would always use Polypipe or compression if I knew I would need to take it apart. Unlike some others the grab ring in the Polypipe fittings is beyond the O-ring so the pipe is not scratched where it seals.

 

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I only use copper in my house. I’m a plasterer had to repair a hep20 leak last week after 6 months being fitted. In the last 5 years probably done 15 leak repairs all plastic no copper leak repairs. Plastic fitting are silly prices compared to solder copper fittings.

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On 08/03/2024 at 15:55, Mr Blobby said:

 

Did you insulate the pipe?

 

How to fix to bottom of hollow core slab?  Maybe long piece of timber with thunderbolt screws then individual pipe clips at 200 centres. (thinking out loud here)

Hire a Spit nail gun. Will make clipping / mechanical fixings a doddle. No more drill / plug / screw etc.

 

I've plumbed 10's of km of copper pipes over the last 30 years, and they're extremely robust and reliable installs. For a manifold setup, plastic every damn day of the week, for non-manifold installs where the tee's are at each outlet (and isolation is at the appliance / outlet vs at the plant on the manifold) either or.

Copper will be fine, I've used tonnes of the stuff, but plastic is my go to for every new M&E install / full new house build. It's just a no-brainer, and as stated, use copper tails and copper at the plant room.

Hep2o is just brilliant stuff, so I won't be going elsewhere any time soon, plus I am not just talking about my experiences of installing some in my own home, instead I am talking about the multiples of dozens of installs in low-energy builds I have used Hep in and with excellent results / reliability.

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So, in reponse to my unenthusiastic response to usiong copper everywhere and my preferance for manifold plumbing, the plumber has come back and proposed MLCP to run between manifold and wet rooms instead of Hep.  Saying Hep too bendy and needs too many clips.

 

Never heard of MLCP before today.  From what I can google it looks to be more difficult to knacker on install than Hep.

Plumber says he will be using compression fittings.  Comes in a single roll so no joins.  What's not to like?

 

MLCP?  Snog, marry, avoid?

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34 minutes ago, Mr Blobby said:

MLCP?  Snog, marry, avoid?

I’m currently using a combination of 12mm and 16mm MLCP in a retrofit scenario.

 

16mm to cold outlets (from manifold)

16mm for rad flow/return (manifold)

12mm for DHW & DRC

 

so far seems robust and does indeed have little ‘memory’ so holds a shape.

 

HOWEVER I mistakenly thought it would pull through conduit. More than one sharp 90 and no chance. I’ve actually kinked it twice trying to thread a big loop so give yourself lots of working space to ‘lay it’.

C67BCFE8-1F73-456F-8E61-0D77723C70FF.thumb.jpeg.a0d09107ee5228e2ac8d9f19d140d150.jpeg

 

I’ve spent about £150 in fittings which covers approx:

10x 12mm to 3/4 euro ones

10x 12mm to 15mm copper adaptor

30x(ish) 16mm to 3/4 eurocones

40x(ish) 16mm to 15mm copper adaptor

 

100m of 16mm and 80m of 12mm cost <£100. A steal compared to JG or Hep.

Though despite measuring and thinking I’ll do the whole house with 100m, three rads have eaten the whole reel. 
can see me using another 200m on top easy!

Edited by OwenF
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MLCP is a good compromise, holds it's shape and doesn't rely so much on the outer layer to form the connection.  I think if I was to go again then I'd go MLCP rather than HEP tbh.  Keeping hep scratch free over the duration of 'My' build has been hard work.

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With all piping systems you need to keep a watchful eye on head loss, with plastic being smaller than copper.  Fitting have a quite big head loss and several in a line can have a dramatic effect once you start adding them up.

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However with plastic, long flowing bends (where possible) and fittings only at the end)much less friction than copper with many 90’ bends and t junctions. I once replaced a tortuous route in copper to a customers shower that was pathetic with a plan to include a pump, when the pipe was replaced the pump was not required as the pressure/flow was miles better (and hep2o inserts are slim stainless not chunky plastic).

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The pre-insulated MLCP 16mm pipe has either 9mm or 13mm insulation.  Is 9mm enough?

Do pipe and compression fittings need to be from the same manufacturer?

 

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I got pipe and fittings from same shop (PSWtradesuppliers) but have no idea if they’re same brand. Fittings appear unbranded.

 

Had to go direct to Multipipe for 12mm to 15mm copper adaptors - only place to stock them.

 

as @joe90 says above, the real benefit of MLCP (or plastic) is minimum or zero intermediate fittings. Mine are uninterrupted lengths of pipe between manifold and rad (or manifold to copper in case of taps)

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