What size wrecking/utility bars for what?

[Sparrowhawk]

Showing my newbie status and lack of knowledge here: I have 2 stud walls to take down, nailed floorboards to lift, and metre upon metre of 1920s skirting to remove.

 

I thought buying a crowbar would be the easy part, but what size do I want for these jobs?

 

I can buy a 7-13" like https://www.toolstation.com/roughneck-toolbox-bar-set/p82899 or 15" like https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-utility-bar-15/58202 or 36" like https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-gorilla-wrecking-bar-36-/46975.

 

What do I need, and what jobs are the ones I don't need right now good for?

[Jenki]

Utility bars are good for removing skirting, if you are not bothered about the plaster.

The last one I wouldn't.

https://www.toolstation.com/roughneck-demolition-lifting-bar/p63005

The above is great for removing floor boards from joists. And for dismantling pallets.

Stud walls a Fubar is a great all rounder.

https://amzn.eu/d/gklUw5V

 

[Susie]

I like your first option a bit smaller for getting in corners and difficult places. Also this https://www.toolstation.com/club-hammer-bolster/p14764

 

Are you taking any plaster off walls going back to bare brick or stone if so hammer and bolster are good. 
 

are you removing skirting board carefully to avoid replastering and then just replacing with new skirting. Then a small hammer for taping the bolster or similar. 
 

lots of rubble bags recycle for free soon or a skip. and hand cream your hands dry out a lot with plaster. 
 

 

[Sparrowhawk]

8 hours ago, Jenki said:

Utility bars are good for removing skirting, if you are not bothered about the plaster.

The last one I wouldn't.

 

If you were bothered about the plaster, what would you use? I was hoping an offcut between it and the wall would help

 

8 hours ago, Jenki said:

https://www.toolstation.com/roughneck-demolition-lifting-bar/p63005

The above is great for removing floor boards from joists. And for dismantling pallets.

Stud walls a Fubar is a great all rounder.

https://amzn.eu/d/gklUw5V

 

Those look great thanks. Esp the "Zombie apocalypse tool" as the reviews brand the Fubar 😀

 

8 hours ago, Susie said:

I like your first option a bit smaller for getting in corners and difficult places. Also this https://www.toolstation.com/club-hammer-bolster/p14764

 

Are you taking any plaster off walls going back to bare brick or stone if so hammer and bolster are good.

 

Not at the moment (maybe later for IWI on 1 wall). But I do have a stone fireplace surround to lift. They are sat on pads of mortar on the wooden floorboards, so a bolster looks good to break them free.

 

8 hours ago, Susie said:

are you removing skirting board carefully to avoid replastering and then just replacing with new skirting. Then a small hammer for taping the bolster or similar.

Carefully is the aim as I am trying to avoid replastering, but expect to have to patch and skim. Upstairs walls are 1920s lath and plaster, downstairs may be horse hair plaster too?

 

I also need to remove the window surrounds. Am thinking remove the trim (looks like door architrave) with a utility bar and then lever off the plank?

 

Edited July 12, 2023 by Sparrowhawk

[TonyT]

Maybe a cats paw, better for keeping surfaces intact.

[Sparrowhawk]

2 minutes ago, TonyT said:

Maybe a cats paw, better for keeping surfaces intact.

Thanks, I'd never heard of that before. The flatter shape means less force exerted on the surface?

 

https://www.axminstertools.com/japanese-restorer-s-cat-s-paw-110206

[MJNewton]

1 hour ago, Sparrowhawk said:

If you were bothered about the plaster, what would you use? I was hoping an offcut between it and the wall would help

 

Yeah you just need to spread the load and not have two moving surfaces in contact.

[Sparrowhawk]

I picked up https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-bar-set-3-pieces/5341v yesterday as it was in stock and put it to work on some 2000's architrave and skirting on stud walls last night.

 

I am disappointed how blunt/unhoned the ends are on the bars. I used the 8" pry bar and there was no way it would get down the joint. I ended up using my Xpert Deglazing Chisel (great bit of kit, best buy this year) to open it up a crack, and then the pry bar worked a treat.

 

Is there a technique to getting the pry bar in or its a matter of honing the end or using another tool like I did to get it started?

 

[MikeSharp01]

On 12/07/2023 at 07:53, Sparrowhawk said:

The flatter shape means less force exerted on the surface?

+1 to that, I have one and it is so useful and not just for taking things apart. I also have a couple of these: https://www.workshopheaven.com/arno-framing-chisel-40mm/ which you can sharpen anytime and give you a great pry action and they are, as they say in the blurb, bombproof because they are all steel.

[joe90]

I have had one of these for many years, great fir pulling buried nails and thin enough for getting behind architrave etc.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203705045267

[markc]

@joe90 that’s in the kit sparrowhawk bought, I have one too, fantastic little pry bar.