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M10 bolts and nuts


JohnBishop

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Hi Everyone,

 I want to join two EUR pallets together to create structure for my shed.

I was thinking about using EUR pallets only for the base and corners for load distribution then some less bulky pallets in between. If I use smaller pallets then I need shorter bolts.
EUR pallets have these OSB blocks sometimes wooden blocks that are 10x15cm so if I want to join 2 pallets horizontally then I need at least 22cm long bolts if vertically then 32cm.
I will need lots of them. I reckon some lower grade.
I think I will have to drill some pallet support blocks twice vertically and horizontally.
Where can I get bolts at a reasonable price for that? Should I just order them of eBay?
I have no experience with these consumables so I don't even know what is a cheap and rip off price for 25, 35cm long M10 bolts.

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1 hour ago, JohnBishop said:

look around for such rods.

Doesn't take much looking. They are at toolstation and screwfix, any DIY and builders merchant.

For a lot I buy them online from a specialist (not ebay), where they offer plain steel, galvanised or stainless,  and the fittings.

Get 1m lengths and put nuts on  before  cutting into 3 or 4 (I'll explain if you go ahead with this). 

Rod, nuts, washers, angle grinder.

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@ProDave said "Get 1m lengths and put nuts on  before  cutting into 3 or 4 (I'll explain if you go ahead with this). 

Rod, nuts, washers, angle grinder."

 

Good call.

 

And when you (OP) forget to put the nuts on you'll be off to buy a grinding disc for the angle grinder for 'fine tuning'.

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1 hour ago, Redbeard said:

And when you (OP) forget to put the nuts on you'll be off to buy a grinding disc for the angle grinder for 'fine tuning'.

 

I cut to length with a slitting disc then dress with a flap disc to slightly taper the end, remove any burr and clean the end up. Never put the nuts on first. 

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12 hours ago, Onoff said:

Never put the nuts on first

Your way works of course, but usually needs some clamping kit. It is still worth checking all the ends accept a nut before starting the work.

Once you have had to fettle a bolt end in an icy hole, with a crane idly holding a column above it, you get more organised next time, and also protect the ends.

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27 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

Your way works of course, but usually needs some clamping kit. It is still worth checking all the ends accept a nut before starting the work.

Once you have had to fettle a bolt end in an icy hole, with a crane idly holding a column above it, you get more organised next time, and also protect the ends.

 

I've been doing it for 40 years. Even down to dipping thread ends in peelable "wax" to save cleaning concrete splashes out if the threads. A nut might help knock the burr off but you'll still end up with a sharp end without dressing. Most of my cut/dressed ends come up square and you wouldn't know them from a shop bought bolt.

 

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2 hours ago, Onoff said:

peelable "wax" to save cleaning concrete splashes out of the threads 

Our supplier started including plastic caps with all foundation bolts. Easy to use and protected against splashes and dents.

Prior to that we used plastic bags and tape, or just tape. Vaseline bandages were good protection but messy to use and remove. 

The other option is to fit the nut and leave it at the end.

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On 08/04/2023 at 13:06, saveasteading said:

Doesn't take much looking. They are at toolstation and screwfix, any DIY and builders merchant.

For a lot I buy them online from a specialist (not ebay), where they offer plain steel, galvanised or stainless,  and the fittings.

Get 1m lengths and put nuts on  before  cutting into 3 or 4 (I'll explain if you go ahead with this). 

Rod, nuts, washers, angle grinder.

I checked Screwfix and Wickes and both are kind of a rip off.

So far the best is ToolStation just over £3 quids for a 1m threaded bar

I understand I drill a hole then I put the 1m rod through put washers and screws on both sides then cut to desired length then I don't have to worry that I cannot take the screw on or off the bar.

As I add to the structure it's going to be harder to join everything with these bars. Not sure if I should join the inside of pallet decking with these bars or just regular wood screws. It would have to be lifted and done from underneath.

Edited by JohnBishop
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M8 very much cheaper if it would suffice..

 

Direct Channel Support Systems Limited

 

M10 Threaded Rod - High Tensile Steel (8.8 Grade) - 1 Meter

Product Code: TR1-10T

M10 Threaded Rod - High Tensile Steel (8.8 Grade) - 1 Meter High Tensile Steel 8.8 G..
£1.50 inc VAT
(£1.25 exc VAT)

 

 

 

M8 THREADED ROD - 3 METER

Product Code: TR3-8
£1.62 inc VAT
(£1.35 exc VAT)
Edited by saveasteading
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10 hours ago, saveasteading said:

M8 very much cheaper if it would suffice..

 

Direct Channel Support Systems Limited

 

M10 Threaded Rod - High Tensile Steel (8.8 Grade) - 1 Meter

Product Code: TR1-10T

M10 Threaded Rod - High Tensile Steel (8.8 Grade) - 1 Meter High Tensile Steel 8.8 G..
£1.50 inc VAT
(£1.25 exc VAT)

 

 

 

M8 THREADED ROD - 3 METER

Product Code: TR3-8
£1.62 inc VAT
(£1.35 exc VAT)

M6 Cheaper still. It's a wooden shed and M6 with a penny washer would more than hold a few pallets together. 

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On 11/04/2023 at 00:47, saveasteading said:

M8 very much cheaper if it would suffice..

 

Direct Channel Support Systems Limited

 

M10 Threaded Rod - High Tensile Steel (8.8 Grade) - 1 Meter

Product Code: TR1-10T

M10 Threaded Rod - High Tensile Steel (8.8 Grade) - 1 Meter High Tensile Steel 8.8 G..
£1.50 inc VAT
(£1.25 exc VAT)

 

 

 

M8 THREADED ROD - 3 METER

Product Code: TR3-8
£1.62 inc VAT
(£1.35 exc VAT)

Thanks for the link. I order from them in bulk. I just have to decide but perhaps M8 is enough for this application.

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