Shower, tray, tiles, and all the rest...

[Crofter]

Time to set out some tiles (and it's November... how did that happen!)

 

SWMBO has chosen metro tiles, 100x200 with bevelled edges. Oh goody. I guess this means lots of cuts. I will be using trim to finish off in a couple of places and I think the only way to make this look OK is if I ensure that only cut edges meet the trim, so that the tiles are all the same depth.

 

How would you set out the back wall? (see image)

a) take the 'centre' to be the halfway point between the edge of the window and RH corner of the room

b) take the centre to be the halfway point between the edge of the WC/basin unit, and the RH corner of the room*

c) start in the RH corner and match the tiles on the adjacent wall, either to mirror them or to create a wraparound effect

 

*this looks, in the picture, as though it lines up with the window, but it doesn't.

 

Thoughts (looking at you, @Nickfromwales)...

[Ian]

27 minutes ago, Crofter said:

 

How would you set out the back wall? (see image)

a) take the 'centre' to be the halfway point between the edge of the window and RH corner of the room

b) take the centre to be the halfway point between the edge of the WC/basin unit, and the RH corner of the room*

c) start in the RH corner and match the tiles on the adjacent wall, either to mirror them or to create a wraparound effect

 

*this looks, in the picture, as though it lines up with the window, but it doesn't.

 

 

 

Just some quick thoughts:

 

1) Set -out - the main thing that you are looking to achieve is to avoid any thin sliver cuts of tiles as they will look stupid.

 

2) Overall - I'd be tempted to either (a) tile the whole of the window wall, or (b) tile the shower on the window wall to a vertical trim line located just past the glass shower screen (level with the edge of your shower tray). I'd then do a  separate splashback for the sink so that the two aren't connected. It would make your set out a lot easier with the bonus of using fewer tiles so cheaper.

Edited November 1, 2017 by Ian

[Crofter]

Thanks for those thoughts @Ian - you could be on to something.

Of course I have somewhat b*ggered up the wall next to the shower screen yesterday when I cut into it to slip in some reinforcing pieces for the screen to screw into- I can probably smooth it over but the plan was to tile over so I didn't spend much time making it good again. If I paint these areas I'll need to get the filler and sandpaper out, not a big deal really.

Tiles are already bought so no savings there

A half way option would be to join up the splashback and enclosure tiled areas, but on the upper area just take it to the screen, or a few mm beyond, rather than the edge of the window. This means I only have to make good two of the three holes I made in the wall...

[Ian]

44 minutes ago, Crofter said:

A half way option would be to join up the splashback and enclosure tiled areas, but on the upper area just take it to the screen, or a few mm beyond, rather than the edge of the window. This means I only have to make good two of the three holes I made in the wall...

That sounds like a good idea.

 

How far across the wall from the glass screen would the tiles need to come in order to fully cover all your holes in the wall?

[Crofter]

Just now, Ian said:

That sounds like a good idea.

 

How far across the wall from the glass screen would the tiles need to come in order to fully cover all your holes in the wall?

Only another three inches, ish. I used a hole saw to cut some chipboard reinforcing pieces, and the same saw to cut holes adjacent to the line of the shower screen (on the 'dry' side), then slid the chipboard pieces in behind the PB so that the screen's screws have something to bite in to. Then I glued the cut out piece of PB back into the hole. It was a skim finish so I can probably make it good again quite easily.

[Ian]

@Crofter

I'd either:

(A) take it past by the 3 inches then so that the tiles just cover all your holes, or maybe

(B) the potential alternative would be to match the width of painted plaster that's on the left side of your window with the same width of painted plaster on the right side and tile up to that line? Your window would then sit symmetrically in the plastered section of wall.

[Crofter]

Your second idea sounds good, thanks. I'll mark it out and see what it looks like in the flesh. Presumably I still take the centreline as the middle of the full height tiled area.

[Ian]

17 minutes ago, Crofter said:

Presumably I still take the centreline as the middle of the full height tiled area.

Its more important to set it out so that you don't end up with any funny looking thin cuts of tile.

 

Yes, if you want you can start by using the middle of your full height tiled area as the centreline but don't forget to check what that gives you in the way of cuts at the wall ends. If you end up with a funny cut then maybe look at starting in the corner of your shower wall with a full tile and see what that gives you in the way of cuts. Another option would be to choose your shower head  as your centreline for the tiling set-out - after all when you're in the shower enclosure everything centres on that.

Edited November 1, 2017 by Ian

[Nickfromwales]

Cut the bottom bevel off the tray tile and go from there up. See what that gives you at the ceiling. Take from the bottom tile until you get a nearly full tile at the ceiling.

On the shower internal go 3/4 > 1/4 and when grouted you just run a bead of colour matched silicone down that line to blend it in, or go mega careful and then you'll get away with just grout and clear CT1. You need a credit card gap minimum to get some grout rammed into the corner so don't go crazy and but them against each other. 

Keep a margin on the right hand side of the window, turning vertically say half way between the glass and the window edge, distance to be decided so you end up 3/4 > 1/4 against the trim to nicely match the internals pair ( which will be matching ). 

The git will be getting a tile landing on the counter top, mark out and see how this all works out so far. 

Ifvit were me I'd tile right over to the sink side and do away with the paint down there. 

Oh, and 100x200 bevels ? Have you argued and that's a punishment? ??

[Crofter]

Oh well that's the first row and a half stuck on so guess I've made my choice (would have done more, but the baby woke up and I had to down tools).

In the end it did come down to a bit of trial and error, seeing what starting point would avoid funny little bits of tile anywhere. With these wee tiles, with their bevel, and with the brick bond, there's precius little room for manoeuvre

 

It must have been something I said to her. Oh hang on I forgot to buy her a bday present this year, that'll be it

 

By the way it turns out that my sketchup model is way off- the window has actually worked out to be exactly, to the mm, centreline between the LH wall and the edge of the shower tray. So I'm going to end the tiles on that line, and it will look as though I planned it that way all along!

[Nickfromwales]

Don't get camera shy, pics please ! 

[bissoejosh]

On 29/09/2017 at 23:59, Nickfromwales said:

For vinyl you should really put a ply base down to cover the joints in the P5, but for a room this small I doubt you'll need it.

 Fill and sand the joints in the P5, to get rid of any noticeable 'notch', and you'll be fine. 

 

Sorry to hijack an old thread but the quote above seems pretty relevant...

 

If tiling on glued 22mm P5 do I need to ply first and if so what thickness would you recommend? Planning on a former tray for the shower so just working out heights etc. 

 

Thanks!

[PeterW]

7 minutes ago, bissoejosh said:

 

Sorry to hijack an old thread but the quote above seems pretty relevant...

 

If tiling on glued 22mm P5 do I need to ply first and if so what thickness would you recommend? Planning on a former tray for the shower so just working out heights etc. 

 

Thanks!

 

What spacing on the joists..?

[Nickfromwales]

41 minutes ago, bissoejosh said:

 

Sorry to hijack an old thread but the quote above seems pretty relevant...

 

If tiling on glued 22mm P5 do I need to ply first and if so what thickness would you recommend? Planning on a former tray for the shower so just working out heights etc. 

 

Thanks!

6mm minimum screwed at 100mm centres. If it’s a big room then you may also want to use a 2mm notched trowel and bed the ply down into neat PVA. 

23 years on, and I’ve not lost a patient yet. 

Add thickness to the ply if it makes sense eg to help marry the tray / floor junction, but 6mm will do it no probs. ?

[Onoff]

7 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

6mm minimum screwed at 100mm centres. If it’s a big room then you may also want to use a 2mm notched trowel and bed the ply down into neat PVA. 

23 years on, and I’ve not lost a patient yet. 

Add thickness to the ply if it makes sense eg to help marry the tray / floor junction, but 6mm will do it no probs. ?

 

What ply would you use, WBP? And the pva, normal or the waterproof stuff?

[bissoejosh]

44 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

What spacing on the joists..?

400mm 

[bissoejosh]

6 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

6mm minimum screwed at 100mm centres. If it’s a big room then you may also want to use a 2mm notched trowel and bed the ply down into neat PVA. 

23 years on, and I’ve not lost a patient yet. 

 Add thickness to the ply if it makes sense eg to help marry the tray / floor junction, but 6mm will do it no probs. ?

 

Superb, much appreciated

[Nickfromwales]

I’ve always used normal ply and regular PVA as I’m the one doing the job. 

If there’s any doubt, then change over to Hardie backer board and go balls-out   

[TheMitchells]

On 01/11/2017 at 13:43, Nickfromwales said:

Cut the bottom bevel off the tray tile and go from there up. See what that gives you at the ceiling. Take from the bottom tile until you get a nearly full tile at the ceiling.

On the shower internal go 3/4 > 1/4 and when grouted you just run a bead of colour matched silicone down that line to blend it in, or go mega careful and then you'll get away with just grout and clear CT1. You need a credit card gap minimum to get some grout rammed into the corner so don't go crazy and but them against each other. 

Keep a margin on the right hand side of the window, turning vertically say half way between the glass and the window edge, distance to be decided so you end up 3/4 > 1/4 against the trim to nicely match the internals pair ( which will be matching ). 

 

 

@Nickfromwales - just checking your comment here about using CT1 and grout at the internal corner.  I have grouted our shower using waterproof grout and adhesive but have not sealed the grout in any way.  Should I be thinking of doing that?  the tiles are stuck onto Aquaboard.