Cladding and how to Finish Bottom

[GrantMcscott]

Hi

Starting to think about the wood clading for the house.  As the clading will stop about 150mm above ground level i need somthing to hide the tiber frame and to finish it off.  Can anyone sudjest what I can use.  I have attached a photo and a drawing to try and demonstrate what I am trying to achive or something similare in a grey / black colour

 

 

[Alan Ambrose]

Err, cladding finishes below top of brick/concrete wall so residual rain can drain off cladding onto ground / gap left open at bottom between cladding and brick/concrete for ventilation / gap bridged with a vermin/bug preventing mesh? 

[GrantMcscott]

17 minutes ago, Alan Ambrose said:

Err, cladding finishes below top of brick/concrete wall so residual rain can drain off cladding onto ground / gap left open at bottom between cladding and brick/concrete for ventilation / gap bridged with a vermin/bug preventing mesh? 

Not sure I understand ground level will be top of block and do not want to see top of block

Edited March 13, 2023 by GrantMcscott
added

[Ralph]

Here's the detailing from our plans. We used Cedral rather than timber but I would assume the principle is the same

[Alan Ambrose]

Is there a better diagram so we can see what's going on rather than make it a 20 questions thing?

 

ATM your bricks appear to be finishing two bricks above ground level, which looks fairly sensible? Are you planning to raise the ground level then to cover those bricks?

[GrantMcscott]

12 minutes ago, Alan Ambrose said:

Is there a better diagram so we can see what's going on rather than make it a 20 questions thing?

 

ATM your bricks appear to be finishing two bricks above ground level, which looks fairly sensible? Are you planning to raise the ground level then to cover those bricks?

The ground level wil be raised so we have a patio and doors are low threshold onto the patio.  

 

Edited March 13, 2023 by GrantMcscott
added pic

[Alan Ambrose]

The diagram suggests 1/2 brick above ground level, covered by 50mm-ish insulation then an unspecified protective layer 15-18mm, then a french drain. Possible to ask the designer what they intended for the unspecified layer?

[Alan Ambrose]

Maybe another fibre cement board?

[GrantMcscott]

2 minutes ago, Alan Ambrose said:

Maybe another fibre cement board?

I suposose I could cover the kit with 200 mm of grey plastic and fill the cavtiy with gravel

[Mr Punter]

I have seen this done with aluminium flashing sized to suit and powder coated but it can get rather expensive.

[Alan Ambrose]

Ah, I see, whoever built has not followed the design - as the membrane shown in the design is flush with the outside of the bricks - whereas in the actual build picture the membrane is flush with the inner face of the brick. (Edit ... actually if there's a cavity there as well, not clear in the picture, then it's the width of the cavity back as well.)

 

The design then shows two layers of 40mm battens, one horizontal, one vertical and then the cladding - so about 95mm from the membrane (and intended to be 95mm from the outside of the bricks). That way rain runoff from the cladding falls straight into the french drain - which is quite important.

 

Edit: I think you have to decide whether you're building to the detailed design you've show above in the drawing, or your own design. Doing your own design is fine, if you're happy to take the risk - most people are not, but I suggest that you want to get the ventilation, membrane, drainage and insulation detail right as well as the aesthetics.

Edited March 13, 2023 by Alan Ambrose

[Jenki]

I'm unsure what the block and cavity is for?. It looks like the foundation was done with Brick / Block &render skin in mind  rather than timber clad.

 

My timber clad build won't have a cavity detail?

 

before answering I would  want to see the details of the foundation makeup thus far - do you have a drawing of the foundation ?

[Kelvin]

31 minutes ago, Ralph said:

Here's the detailing from our plans. We used Cedral rather than timber but I would assume the principle is the same

@Ralph out of interest what is the facing material on the external perimeter insulation. I have this problem to address soon. 

[Jenki]

1 minute ago, Kelvin said:

@Ralph out of interest what is the facing material on the external perimeter insulation. I have this problem to address soon. 

@Kelvin  I was planning to use reclaimed slate.  I've seen people mention using Ubbink Ubiflex lead replacement. 

[saveasteading]

The original sketch is how commercial units were often built, but was not ideal. The closer flashing you show would be made to order using plastisol coated steel and cost about £10/m.

It could look poor if not perfectly done, and can damage easily.

 

Other issues start to appear though. Damp especially. Could you build the patio in timber so that there is free air flow and  no damp? Then the cladding simply passes over the brick and drips to ground.

[GrantMcscott]

3 hours ago, Ralph said:

Here's the detailing from our plans. We used Cedral rather than timber but I would assume the principle is the same

I think I will do this detail and fill the cavity with gravel then there will be plenty of air flow and somewhere for the water to drop to

[Ralph]

5 hours ago, Kelvin said:

@Ralph out of interest what is the facing material on the external perimeter insulation. I have this problem to address soon. 

We used a smooth cement board