Jump to content

Low profile concealed shower valve


Recommended Posts

SWMBO has decreed that it is not acceptable to have the shower mixer valve situated beside/under the riser rail. This is because the shower will be a large walk in enclosure with a fixed screen, and the riser will be down the far end. So she reckons we should have the valve 4ft away on the wall opposite the entrance, so that you can turn the shower on and off from outside. I reluctantly admit she may have a point.

 

The problem with this is that the wall there only has a 25mm void behind the plasterboard, which is nowhere near enough to conceal a shower valve.

I think I will have to resort to some combination of spacing the wall out a bit, and/or locally digging back into the insulation to create a bigger space. This means breaching the vapour/airtightness membrane and cutting back into the 50mm PIR, then making it all good again afterwards. It's not a particularly appealing prospect tbh.

 

I could go a bit Heath-Robinson and fit an exposed mixer, with a third elbow fixed onto the outlet where the hose ought to go- this would feed the outlet back into the wall where a concealed pipe run would take it to the riser. Not convinced I could make that look right, and it would be a bit harder to clean.

 

So my questions are...

- does anybody know of an exposed mixer valve that is actually designed to be sited remotely, with its outlet feeding back to a concealed run?

- failing that, what is the lowest profile concealed mixer valve that I can get?

 

Quick and dirty sketch attached... remote mixer valve would be located on the RHS wall, opposite the entrance to the shower.

shower room layout.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I doubt you will find anything 25mm deep, but something like this http://www.screwfix.com/p/aqualisa-aquavalve-609-built-in-riser-rail-thermostatic-mixer-shower-chrome/32030#product_additional_details_container reqires 60mm from the face of the tiles.

 

Why not batten just this wall in 50mm battens? I doubt you will notice the room shrinking by 25mm?  It will make running pipe easier as well (all walls where I need pipes are battened with 50mm)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said:

The idea of placing the shower valve outside of the wet tray area was a bad idea imo, so they agreed to move it. 

 

Can I ask why you think that?

 

I like the idea of turning the shower on without getting your arm/head wet. 

 

Come on, your on a roll (with your pipe stat thing :) ) is there merit in a 15mm solenoid valve simply operated by a switch? Throw the switch and a TMV set shower. Not sure how you'd vary the temp thereafter.....

 

(I am on the beer trying to kill this toothache).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Just had this discussion on my current install. The idea of placing the shower valve outside of the wet tray area was a bad idea imo, so they agreed to move it. How big is the tray ? Does the fall stop at the glass end?

 

Not clear from my sketch, but the idea is for the tray to extend the full width of the room. And it probably looks like it's going to be a wet room, but it's not.

Nothing set in stone yet... and I'm bracing myself for the delivery costs on a 1600x800 tray...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your in the shower and dripping wet then you go to change from rose to handset then water will drip onto the floor. I always promote that to be so it lands on the fall of the wet area so it's naturally draining away, rather than pooling on a flat section of the tiled floor where it sits until you towel it off.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Don't you mean tap? :D

 

No I mean an app like you have on that waterproof iPhone of yours .....

 

have you upgraded to iOS 10.3 yet, it does microwave charging - 60 seconds on defrost and you're done... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, PeterW said:

 

No I mean an app like you have on that waterproof iPhone of yours .....

 

have you upgraded to iOS 10.3 yet, it does microwave charging - 60 seconds on defrost and you're done... 

Tidy. I'll top it up with the ready brek in the morning. ?

✌️️

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Crofter said:

Thanks, but I don't think I can go for a wet room- it's on a suspended timber floor. My sketch was probably a bit misleading.

If suspended timber floor is the reason for not having a wet room, then nobody would have one upstairs, including me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Go on, enlighten me... genuinely puzzled about how I would go about having a wet room. Would I have to raise the whole floor? Because I can't lower it to create a drain point without cutting into the tops of my JJI joists...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Plan your drain runs in the main to run parallel with and between the joists. You can cut through the web of a JJI but you probably need to add a plywood gusset plate glued and screwed each side. Shower former sits straight on joists, you will need to add some strengthenig webs flush with the top pf the joists to properly support the former. Floor boards on top of joists up to former.

 

This is exactly what I am doing except I have posi joists

 

I can't see the drain issue being any different between a wet room former and a standard shower tray, unless you were planning to put the tray up on legs?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Crofter said:

Go on, enlighten me... genuinely puzzled about how I would go about having a wet room. Would I have to raise the whole floor? Because I can't lower it to create a drain point without cutting into the tops of my JJI joists...

 

These were JJI's which I had to beef up. The webs got fully loaded with 22mm plywood, glued and screwed, then 18mm webs added top to toe, glued and screwed again. Bath going in here was 90kg empty so the flimsy joists weren't enough on their own imo so Capt OCD went to town. 

IMG_5812.thumb.JPG.c3a95ae57fd918df79f1b9bbeb44973a.JPGIMG_5814.thumb.JPG.c2d4486798a71db773593fff7add87dd.JPGIMG_5823.thumb.JPG.7193907693eec861eef6a4cd82292224.JPGIMG_5827.thumb.JPG.d16c8ea35a9b46532477006df51da35c.JPG

 

(x) mm ply goes under the former, equivelant size goes on top of P5 later. 

IMG_5830.thumb.JPG.f3e49d40308345826757ce2dfdd218f8.JPG

 

 

Then (x) mm ply goes all over the P5 to bring it back to one flush floor 

image.thumb.jpg.e1cceec5bad158ffdfc949aa77e2c7c3.jpg

 

Or as @ProDave reminded me, do away with the ply, glue and screw the ? out of the P5 and use the Impey membrane which both bonds and decouples. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought you'd say that TBH. It is a load of extra work. Tbh, a low level tray will look super-smart going the full width of the room, and swmbo canbhave the tap anywhere over the tray so winner winner. 

Set the tray on the deck, [ and for the rest of the room ] lay 12mm ply and then tiles and adhesive so very little of the tray is left proud. ? 

Edited by Nickfromwales
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...