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YALANCT (Yet Another Loxone And Network Cabling Thread)


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Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, TechyTim said:

I've had a peak - you're finding your way, as am I 🙂

 

Yes, the terminal blocks. I get the concept, but I don't see the why the double and triple decker versions?

 

Couldn't these be used for all the different circuits, whether it be from a dimmer extension or just using the miniserver relays?

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Afaik you can use whatever you want to use! I used the one you posted as I terminated every T&E on the side with 3 levels as the earths all commoned on the din rail. @Rob99 uses double decker TB for L & N and terminates the earths on a connection bar. Horses for courses from my perspective. 
 

my sparks was happy with the way I’d done it. 
 

there are only 2 levels on the “internal” side as there’s no earth from the relays so it’s just the switched live and commoned neutral from the RCBO

Edited by Thorfun
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18 minutes ago, TechyTim said:

I've had a peak - you're finding your way, as am I 🙂

 

Yes, the terminal blocks. I get the concept, but I don't see the why the double and triple decker versions?

 

Couldn't these be used for all the different circuits, whether it be from a dimmer extension or just using the miniserver relays?

image.png.3382844332381c485fdeff8b30cbff68.png

Double decker for twin and earth, triple decker for anything taking 3-core and earth e.g. blinds with 2 switched lives for up/down drive

 

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put the new Loxone relay extension in and connected up the blinds to it and they just work. it was a good experiment trying the SSRs and I still have them if I want to use cheap relays for something else (maybe the wet UFH control when I get that set up?). cabinet is almost ready to put the covers on as there's not many more lighting circuits I can connect up at the moment. making a final push for BCO sign off in the next couple of months so need to make it all safe and get the electrics signed off.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.3f8fdee6709b6108ce07be1fb2bd561e.jpeg

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2 hours ago, Thorfun said:

making a final push for BCO sign off in the next couple of years so need to make it all safe’ish and get the electrics signed off.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 14/04/2024 at 18:05, Thorfun said:

maybe the wet UFH control when I get that set up?

probably not a good match for SSRs

- ASHP controls tend to need a dry contact input for the call for heat or whatever

- UFH manifold actuators tend to be extremely small load and don't draw enough current for the SSR to actually turn on

 

You can certainly use them for any circulation pumps you maybe driving directly from loxone though

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Loxone panel up and running. Thanks to @Rob99 for the panel. Very neatly laid out with easy to follow instructions and easy for the sparkie and I to wire it up. Had a few cabling issues largely caused by a few things not yet connected, some cable wiring issues and a cable fault outside. Loads still to do as I’ve just quickly added all the devices to rooms and routed the lighting circuits. But at least we have lights  IMG_2099.thumb.jpeg.70aebc4c65125e90f98bdcabd4d2451f.jpeg

 

Edited by Kelvin
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2 hours ago, Kelvin said:

Loxone panel up and running. Thanks to @Rob99 for the panel. Very neatly laid out with easy to follow instructions and easy for the sparkie and I to wire it up. Had a few cabling issues largely caused by a few things not yet connected, some cable wiring issues and a cable fault outside. Loads still to do as I’ve just quickly added all the devices to rooms and routed the lighting circuits. But at least we have lights  IMG_2099.thumb.jpeg.70aebc4c65125e90f98bdcabd4d2451f.jpeg

 

 

looking great!

 

@Rob99's wiring is almost as neat as mine! 🤣

 

 

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Posted (edited)

This thread looks like it’s become the general Loxone question thread. 
 

I’ve not had time to put much effort into configuring it all beyond adding all the devices to the rooms and associating lighting circuits to controllers and rooms then running the auto-configuration tool. Everything works and the presence sensors are all doing what they do. The Audioserver and in-ceiling speakers sound much better than I was expecting too. I have a few questions: 

 

1. I have some wall lights by the beds that have a built in switch and I have a Touch switch each side of the beds. At the moment I need to switch the circuit using the Touch switch then press the button on the light. Is there a way to have this circuit permanently switched so that I can just use the switch on the light. 
 

2. The Touch switches are fine for most rooms. However in the open plan area, with lots of lights,  they aren’t so easy to use. Presumably the best way to manage this is to just create different scenes with different light groupings. How do you then activate these with a standard switch? I do have a Touch Flex, which I’ve yet to configure, which will solve this.  
 

3. I can’t quite work out how to use the other buttons on the Touch switch to activate lights. I know the Loxone standard is shading and volume for these switches which is how most of them are configured but there’s one switch where I want to use the other buttons for lights. 
 

I hadn’t planned on using a fixed tablet mounted on the wall but can now see some benefit in this. Fortunately planned ahead so can easily add this. 

 

Edited by Kelvin
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12 hours ago, Kelvin said:

1. I have some wall lights by the beds that have a built in switch and I have a Touch switch each side of the beds. At the moment I need to switch the circuit using the Touch switch then press the button on the light. Is there a way to have this circuit permanently switched so that I can just use the switch on the light.

All depends on the fitting you have.  Can't you leave the wall-light switch always on, and then control from Lozone?

 

12 hours ago, Kelvin said:

2. The Touch switches are fine for most rooms. However in the open plan area, with lots of lights,  they aren’t so easy to use. Presumably the best way to manage this is to just create different scenes with different light groupings. How do you then activate these with a standard switch? I do have a Touch Flex, which I’ve yet to configure, which will solve this.  

Don't see why it would be an issue with touch switches, although maybe not justified if you don't need switch to also do blinds/curtains or music.  I'd start by designing your zones and then decide when a swtich will be needed and where it makes sense for that switch to be.  

 

12 hours ago, Kelvin said:

3. I can’t quite work out how to use the other buttons on the Touch switch to activate lights.

If you play around with it a bit more, I think you'll find it's easier to use the center button to switching between moods, don't think of it as a 5-in-1 light switched.  Some moods can be automatics (with precense and/or time of the day, or as part of a scene), typically only some moods are manual. 

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Thanks. Very helpful. It’s a capacitive switch on the bedside switch. 
 

I spent 30 mins on config earlier as a break from painting and have set a few moods up and automated it a bit more. 

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On 18/05/2024 at 09:02, Kelvin said:

1. I have some wall lights by the beds that have a built in switch and I have a Touch switch each side of the beds. At the moment I need to switch the circuit using the Touch switch then press the button on the light. Is there a way to have this circuit permanently switched so that I can just use the switch on the light. 

To clarify, you want the circuit permanently powered, ie. unswitched?

Most obvious answer is to have the electrician permanently power it, not via a relay or dimmer or whatever. But if you want to do it in loxone config the most robust way is to create a "constant" object, give it the value you want (i.e. 100) and connect that to the dimmer output. Another option is to use the "correction" feature on the output putting 100 as both the "target values" so any and all value going into it gets corrected to 100 output. 

hth

 

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On 18/05/2024 at 09:02, Kelvin said:

3. I can’t quite work out how to use the other buttons on the Touch switch to activate lights. I know the Loxone standard is shading and volume for these switches which is how most of them are configured but there’s one switch where I want to use the other buttons for lights. 

You need to enable the "Show Button 1-5" check boxes in the settings for the Touch switch. You then get I1-I5 inputs which you can use as standard retractive button input to any other logic block. Here I have all of them except I3 enabled, as I3 is the big center button which I  use via the standard T5 input to a lighting controller.

 

 

image.thumb.png.4881c0f36657825fa6ab16d18deb4c8a.png

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On 21/05/2024 at 08:58, joth said:

To clarify, you want the circuit permanently powered, ie. unswitched?

Most obvious answer is to have the electrician permanently power it, not via a relay or dimmer or whatever. But if you want to do it in loxone config the most robust way is to create a "constant" object, give it the value you want (i.e. 100) and connect that to the dimmer output. Another option is to use the "correction" feature on the output putting 100 as both the "target values" so any and all value going into it gets corrected to 100 output. 

hth

 


I didn’t want to fix it electrically as it takes it out of Loxone. However, I’ve fixed it using a “mood” which switches the other lights in the room off and switches the bedside wall lights on which we can control with the integrated switch on the light. 

Edited by Kelvin
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On 21/05/2024 at 09:03, joth said:

You need to enable the "Show Button 1-5" check boxes in the settings for the Touch switch. You then get I1-I5 inputs which you can use as standard retractive button input to any other logic block. Here I have all of them except I3 enabled, as I3 is the big center button which I  use via the standard T5 input to a lighting controller.

 

 

image.thumb.png.4881c0f36657825fa6ab16d18deb4c8a.png


Yes I’ve done that. The problem I am having is getting them to do anything once configured. I’ve not looked at it again so will figure it out. 

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