YALANCT (Yet Another Loxone And Network Cabling Thread)

[Thorfun]

6 minutes ago, TechyTim said:

I've had a peak - you're finding your way, as am I 🙂

 

Yes, the terminal blocks. I get the concept, but I don't see the why the double and triple decker versions?

 

Couldn't these be used for all the different circuits, whether it be from a dimmer extension or just using the miniserver relays?

Afaik you can use whatever you want to use! I used the one you posted as I terminated every T&E on the side with 3 levels as the earths all commoned on the din rail. @Rob99 uses double decker TB for L & N and terminates the earths on a connection bar. Horses for courses from my perspective. 
 

my sparks was happy with the way I’d done it. 
 

there are only 2 levels on the “internal” side as there’s no earth from the relays so it’s just the switched live and commoned neutral from the RCBO

Edited April 11, 2024 by Thorfun

[joth]

18 minutes ago, TechyTim said:

I've had a peak - you're finding your way, as am I 🙂

 

Yes, the terminal blocks. I get the concept, but I don't see the why the double and triple decker versions?

 

Couldn't these be used for all the different circuits, whether it be from a dimmer extension or just using the miniserver relays?

Double decker for twin and earth, triple decker for anything taking 3-core and earth e.g. blinds with 2 switched lives for up/down drive

 

[Thorfun]

put the new Loxone relay extension in and connected up the blinds to it and they just work. it was a good experiment trying the SSRs and I still have them if I want to use cheap relays for something else (maybe the wet UFH control when I get that set up?). cabinet is almost ready to put the covers on as there's not many more lighting circuits I can connect up at the moment. making a final push for BCO sign off in the next couple of months so need to make it all safe and get the electrics signed off.

 

[Pocster]

2 hours ago, Thorfun said:

making a final push for BCO sign off in the next couple of years so need to make it all safe’ish and get the electrics signed off.

 

[joth]

On 14/04/2024 at 18:05, Thorfun said:

maybe the wet UFH control when I get that set up?

probably not a good match for SSRs

- ASHP controls tend to need a dry contact input for the call for heat or whatever

- UFH manifold actuators tend to be extremely small load and don't draw enough current for the SSR to actually turn on

 

You can certainly use them for any circulation pumps you maybe driving directly from loxone though

 

[Kelvin]

Loxone panel up and running. Thanks to @Rob99 for the panel. Very neatly laid out with easy to follow instructions and easy for the sparkie and I to wire it up. Had a few cabling issues largely caused by a few things not yet connected, some cable wiring issues and a cable fault outside. Loads still to do as I’ve just quickly added all the devices to rooms and routed the lighting circuits. But at least we have lights  

 

Edited May 15, 2024 by Kelvin

[Rob99]

Thanks @Kelvin, you've installed that nicely in a very tight space 👍

[Thorfun]

2 hours ago, Kelvin said:

Loxone panel up and running. Thanks to @Rob99 for the panel. Very neatly laid out with easy to follow instructions and easy for the sparkie and I to wire it up. Had a few cabling issues largely caused by a few things not yet connected, some cable wiring issues and a cable fault outside. Loads still to do as I’ve just quickly added all the devices to rooms and routed the lighting circuits. But at least we have lights  

 

 

looking great!

 

@Rob99's wiring is almost as neat as mine! 🤣

 

 

[Kelvin]

This thread looks like it’s become the general Loxone question thread. 
 

I’ve not had time to put much effort into configuring it all beyond adding all the devices to the rooms and associating lighting circuits to controllers and rooms then running the auto-configuration tool. Everything works and the presence sensors are all doing what they do. The Audioserver and in-ceiling speakers sound much better than I was expecting too. I have a few questions: 

 

1. I have some wall lights by the beds that have a built in switch and I have a Touch switch each side of the beds. At the moment I need to switch the circuit using the Touch switch then press the button on the light. Is there a way to have this circuit permanently switched so that I can just use the switch on the light. 
 

2. The Touch switches are fine for most rooms. However in the open plan area, with lots of lights,  they aren’t so easy to use. Presumably the best way to manage this is to just create different scenes with different light groupings. How do you then activate these with a standard switch? I do have a Touch Flex, which I’ve yet to configure, which will solve this.  
 

3. I can’t quite work out how to use the other buttons on the Touch switch to activate lights. I know the Loxone standard is shading and volume for these switches which is how most of them are configured but there’s one switch where I want to use the other buttons for lights. 
 

I hadn’t planned on using a fixed tablet mounted on the wall but can now see some benefit in this. Fortunately planned ahead so can easily add this. 

 

Edited May 18, 2024 by Kelvin

[Dan F]

12 hours ago, Kelvin said:

1. I have some wall lights by the beds that have a built in switch and I have a Touch switch each side of the beds. At the moment I need to switch the circuit using the Touch switch then press the button on the light. Is there a way to have this circuit permanently switched so that I can just use the switch on the light.

All depends on the fitting you have.  Can't you leave the wall-light switch always on, and then control from Lozone?

 

12 hours ago, Kelvin said:

2. The Touch switches are fine for most rooms. However in the open plan area, with lots of lights,  they aren’t so easy to use. Presumably the best way to manage this is to just create different scenes with different light groupings. How do you then activate these with a standard switch? I do have a Touch Flex, which I’ve yet to configure, which will solve this.  

Don't see why it would be an issue with touch switches, although maybe not justified if you don't need switch to also do blinds/curtains or music.  I'd start by designing your zones and then decide when a swtich will be needed and where it makes sense for that switch to be.  

 

12 hours ago, Kelvin said:

3. I can’t quite work out how to use the other buttons on the Touch switch to activate lights.

If you play around with it a bit more, I think you'll find it's easier to use the center button to switching between moods, don't think of it as a 5-in-1 light switched.  Some moods can be automatics (with precense and/or time of the day, or as part of a scene), typically only some moods are manual. 

[Kelvin]

Thanks. Very helpful. It’s a capacitive switch on the bedside switch. 
 

I spent 30 mins on config earlier as a break from painting and have set a few moods up and automated it a bit more. 

[joth]

On 18/05/2024 at 09:02, Kelvin said:

1. I have some wall lights by the beds that have a built in switch and I have a Touch switch each side of the beds. At the moment I need to switch the circuit using the Touch switch then press the button on the light. Is there a way to have this circuit permanently switched so that I can just use the switch on the light. 

To clarify, you want the circuit permanently powered, ie. unswitched?

Most obvious answer is to have the electrician permanently power it, not via a relay or dimmer or whatever. But if you want to do it in loxone config the most robust way is to create a "constant" object, give it the value you want (i.e. 100) and connect that to the dimmer output. Another option is to use the "correction" feature on the output putting 100 as both the "target values" so any and all value going into it gets corrected to 100 output. 

hth

 

[joth]

On 18/05/2024 at 09:02, Kelvin said:

3. I can’t quite work out how to use the other buttons on the Touch switch to activate lights. I know the Loxone standard is shading and volume for these switches which is how most of them are configured but there’s one switch where I want to use the other buttons for lights. 

You need to enable the "Show Button 1-5" check boxes in the settings for the Touch switch. You then get I1-I5 inputs which you can use as standard retractive button input to any other logic block. Here I have all of them except I3 enabled, as I3 is the big center button which I  use via the standard T5 input to a lighting controller.

 

 

[Kelvin]

On 21/05/2024 at 08:58, joth said:

To clarify, you want the circuit permanently powered, ie. unswitched?

Most obvious answer is to have the electrician permanently power it, not via a relay or dimmer or whatever. But if you want to do it in loxone config the most robust way is to create a "constant" object, give it the value you want (i.e. 100) and connect that to the dimmer output. Another option is to use the "correction" feature on the output putting 100 as both the "target values" so any and all value going into it gets corrected to 100 output. 

hth

 

I didn’t want to fix it electrically as it takes it out of Loxone. However, I’ve fixed it using a “mood” which switches the other lights in the room off and switches the bedside wall lights on which we can control with the integrated switch on the light. 

Edited May 23, 2024 by Kelvin

[Kelvin]

On 21/05/2024 at 09:03, joth said:

You need to enable the "Show Button 1-5" check boxes in the settings for the Touch switch. You then get I1-I5 inputs which you can use as standard retractive button input to any other logic block. Here I have all of them except I3 enabled, as I3 is the big center button which I  use via the standard T5 input to a lighting controller.

 

 

Yes I’ve done that. The problem I am having is getting them to do anything once configured. I’ve not looked at it again so will figure it out. 

[Dan F]

@joth @Thorfun @Rob99

 

Any suggestions for simple black retractive switches that wouldn't look out of place in room that also uses Loxone Touch Pure and that work with the round (european) plastic back boxes?  Either that or some nice looking blanking plates

 

I've realised that we don't need Touch Pure everwhere I've planned, but don't want to fill-in all the locations as i) a simple switch might still be worthwhile ii) some have connections e.g. with door sensors.

[Thorfun]

46 minutes ago, Dan F said:

@joth @Thorfun @Rob99

 

Any suggestions for simple black retractive switches that wouldn't look out of place in room that also uses Loxone Touch Pure and that work with the round (european) plastic back boxes?  Either that or some nice looking blanking plates

 

I've realised that we don't need Touch Pure everwhere I've planned, but don't want to fill-in all the locations as i) a simple switch might still be worthwhile ii) some have connections e.g. with door sensors.

we used these https://www.retrotouch.co.uk/crystal-pulse-retractive-switches/crystal-pg-retractivepulse-light-switch-1-gang-black.html but in white to match our touch switches. reasonably quiet and look really nice. come in multiple gangs too.

 

bought from these guys which were the best price i could find.

 

https://www.ashdownhomestore.co.uk/retrotouch-switch-range-181-c.asp

 

edit: sorry just realised you said that worked with the round back boxes. sadly these use the square backbox.

Edited June 3, 2024 by Thorfun

[joth]

I went to a Bricolage in France to buy retractive switches compatible with EU back boxes - I used Schneider but quite a few options there.

 

The big square button still very common on the continent. It's a bit dated style here I know, but me reasoning is it's somewhat in keeping with the Loxone touch style. (And, our house has a kind of mid century feel that this doesn't feel alien in)

 

 

Else everything on this store is EU compat I believe. https://www.swtch.co.uk/finish-dark/

 

[Dan F]

1 hour ago, joth said:

I used Schneider but quite a few options there.

Any idea what to look for to know if it works with round back box?  What do you look for on the datasheet?

[joth]

3 hours ago, Dan F said:

Any idea what to look for to know if it works with round back box?  What do you look for on the datasheet?

Afraid I didn't think that much about it, by buying in Europe I just knew they'd work in a euro back back

 

the interchangeable "Gira 55" style surround is definitely a good hint it's intended for EU market, if you can figure what that's called in Schneider  speak

[AHelen1]

On 09/11/2022 at 23:46, Rob99 said:

I have a preference for using larger power supplies connected in parallel and then seperately fusing each 24v circuit. This balances the load and provides some redundancy. Also means you don't have to define which circuits are fed from which power supply so much more flexible and if one dies (rare I know!) you can disconnect and swap it out without half your circuits not working or needing to rewire anything.

 

This is how I generally do it..........

 

 

 

Hi Rob, Very tidy set up for the power supplies. What brand/model are the fused terminal blocks you used here?

[AHelen1]

19 hours ago, AHelen1 said:

 

Hi @Rob99 Very tidy set up for the power supplies. What brand/model are the fused terminal blocks you used here?

 

[Rob99]

On 01/01/2025 at 17:20, AHelen1 said:

 

Hi Rob, Very tidy set up for the power supplies. What brand/model are the fused terminal blocks you used here?

They are WAGO Single Height Fused, Ref 2002-1681

[AHelen1]

On 02/01/2025 at 23:38, Rob99 said:

They are WAGO Single Height Fused, Ref 2002-1681

Thanks! @Rob99 much appreciated. 

[Thorfun]

hi all. thought i'd done with this thread but as i start fitting out the basement i realise that i could do with more opinions on a few things.

 

my cabinet is pretty full and i have very few relays free or channels left on my DMX 24V RGBW WhiteWing dimmer. As such i'm thinking about fitting the Loxone RGBW Tree Spots (recessed) in our music room.

 

Just wondering if anyone has an opinion on them apart from being expensive!

 

i've looked at using Voltus RGBW bulbs but they're over €50 each and when you take in to account the fittings as well it's not too much less than the Loxone spots and then i'd need relays to control them whereas the Loxone ones are simply tree controlled. so it's much easier and probably cheaper in the end!

 

the other thing is that i will probably use standard retractive switches to control the lights and so will need to run a separate Cat6a cable so i'm thinking it's not worth using Loxone Tree cable as i'd still have to run 2 x cables anyway. so i've got Cat6a leftover from the rest of the cabling and i was thinking of using that and running 1.5mm 2-core flex along with it. is that ok to do? would folk recommend running standard 1.5mm T&E even though i don't need the earth for 24V lighting? cost difference between the 2 isn't much but T&E is stiffer cable and harder to run.

 

just looking for opinions please. 🙂 

Edited Thursday at 14:04 by Thorfun