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Alwayslearning22

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I'd just use decorators caulk as its paintable.  Not sure taping would have been standard practice when they were installed, and there will be quite a bit of making good if you take the window board out I reckon.

Edited by Roundtuit
typo
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When you say silicone, that's not paintable so you end up with a messy edge. Plus if you tool it and get it on the surrounding area then that becomes difficult to decorate over. The only reason to use silicone is because of its flexibility. Acrylic is over-paintable but is less flexible and tends to dry out and crack so you're back to square on in a few years time. However, you can get a siliconised acrylic sealant which has the both the benefits.

 

28222.thumb.jpg.41b06941c54ef614d4ad17c2b68cff2e.jpg

 

It's not going to be as thorough a fix as removing the full plasterboard reveal and window board and taping but it's so much simpler and should last a reasonably time.

Edited by Radian
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Depends on the path the external air can take.

You don't want cold air getting though to a plasterboard wall, or even diffusing though insulation.

Inside needs to be both airtight and gas impermeable, outside needs to be gas permeable, but reduce the airspeed to virtually zero.

 

Chalks and fillers should really only be used to make things pretty, not as an engineer solution to airtightness failures.

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White window, - white sealant, no problem. just mask off the area as you would if over painting a window.

 

This is silicone free and designed for the job.  

 

image.thumb.png.80974ea62803a2161611fe8d8445b736.png

 

 

This is a good video for the same technique. I would wipe with an alcohol wipe or similar solvent first and use @Nickfromwales baby wipes instead of paper wipes. 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, SteamyTea said:

Depends on the path the external air can take.

You don't want cold air getting though to a plasterboard wall, or even diffusing though insulation.

Inside needs to be both airtight and gas impermeable, outside needs to be gas permeable, but reduce the airspeed to virtually zero.

 

Chalks and fillers should really only be used to make things pretty, not as an engineer solution to airtightness failures.

I see what you mean. 
I’m just starting to notice my home as punctures in the vcl basically everywhere. So I’m wondering is there a point in taking off the window board to correct it when I have holes everywhere else? 
Maybe sealing the window board could be the less intrusive repair

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17 minutes ago, Alwayslearning22 said:

I’m just starting to notice my home as punctures in the vcl basically everywhere

This is the big problem with houses, who knows what is under the paint.

I once saw a builder put extra gravel on a leaky flat roof because 'it will slow the leak down a bit'.

Owner then paid extra to get the tonne of gravel removed so the roof could be properly repaired, with gravel free GRP.

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1 hour ago, Alwayslearning22 said:

I found this I wonder would it do the job?  
https://www.soudal.co.uk/diy/products/fix-all/fix-all/fix-all-flexi

I don't know if they use the same testing regime but the Soudal product claims it has an Elongation at Break of 750% compared to SP510 at  500% - so I'd be happy to use it. In the absence of anything else, the ability of the sealant to remain attached to both surfaces is of paramount importance.

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1 hour ago, Alwayslearning22 said:

I found this I wonder would it do the job?  
https://www.soudal.co.uk/diy/products/fix-all/fix-all/fix-all-flexi

 

Looks fine. It has "good UV resistance" like the SP510. couldn't find any UV data about @Radian suggestion of everflex 195. 

 

The workability of sealants varies massively. Maybe buy one of each to see what is easiest to apply and report back. 

 

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5 hours ago, Radian said:

Yeah, 750% extension before break is impressive for a MS polymer. Bought a tube to see it for myself.

Elastic recovery (ISO 7389)** > 75 %

 

Not sure how much over three quarters it will come back into shape, probably depends on shape and temperature.

 

If it is a silicone sealant, then you can thin it down and make it very stretchy.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 26/10/2022 at 16:45, Alwayslearning22 said:

Just incase anyone wondered about the workability of soudal fix all for sealing the internal window frame.
 

I wouldn’t recommend it as it’s difficult to tool.
Also I think caulk blends in nicer.  
 

DE9CC210-2FB7-4077-9894-0D8E29334B42.jpeg

I finally got around to using the tube I bought and I'd agree that it's a bit on the wet & sticky side which makes tooling a challenge. In your photo, is that the Soudal fix all? It looks very neat. One thing that was unexpected is the smell. It hangs around more than most sealants!

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10 hours ago, Radian said:

I finally got around to using the tube I bought and I'd agree that it's a bit on the wet & sticky side which makes tooling a challenge. In your photo, is that the Soudal fix all? It looks very neat. One thing that was unexpected is the smell. It hangs around more than most sealants!


Yea it’s Soudal fix all. I used a Fugi tool and baby wipes. Always leaves a professional finish. 
I once paid a mastic man to seal my shower he was very expensive so I decided it was time to learn the craft.

 I agree with the smell was surprising considering it claims no Odour.

I painted over it too and the paint keeps cracking. 
 

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