Rust Removal Adventures: Electrolysis, Acid etc

[Ed Davies]

21 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

Were you thinking he could warm his acid bath water with some?

 

Of course. They won't get really hot if it's cloudy but they would put some warmth in. Probably better to have some plastic pipe or something keeping the fluid in the panels and the acid separate, though. ?

[Onoff]

11 minutes ago, Ed Davies said:

 

Of course. They won't get really hot if it's cloudy but they would put some warmth in. Probably better to have some plastic pipe or something keeping the fluid in the panels and the acid separate, though. ?

 

Typically I have sited the bath in the shadiest corner of the garden!

[Onoff]

Going to re title the thread "rust removal" as it's getting away from electrolysis now. 

It's cold out there, frost on the car one morning but I'm really pleased with the results so far for minimal effort of 9kg of citric acid in a bath full of water! No heating etc since the initial 3 hot buckets. I will take the jet wash to it one night to hopefully deal with any stubborn paint:

 

 

 

[Onoff]

That really works well!

 

 

 

The caliper was interesting. I took it out of the bath along with the cross member and trailing arm and jet washed the lot. Wire brushed some of the more stubborn rusty areas too.

 

Took the caliper only indoors and washed it in the sink under hot water with a drop of Fairy whilst I freed the sliders off. It flash rusted so quickly afterwards. This is it flash rusted. 5 mins before it was clean steel.

 

 

All back in the bath now.

Edited November 16, 2019 by Onoff

[Onoff]

Been searching for years for one of the vices, the knurling tool and surface gauge I made circa 1983. Well I found them...in a seized barn box I also made right down to the hinges. Time hasn't been kind!





All in the citric acid bath now. Fingers crossed.

[SteamyTea]

4 hours ago, Onoff said:

All in the citric acid bath now. Fingers crossed

Washer Woman Fingers surely.

[daiking]

Lol, we should have a barn box thread. 
bit late to get mine out of the shed though

Edited November 17, 2019 by daiking

[Onoff]

 

19 minutes ago, daiking said:

Lol, we should have a barn box thread. 
bit late to get mine out of the shed though

 

I remember one of the other apprentices got his measurements wrong by 100mm when doing his tool box. Of course he had to make the lids longer in turn. He had the last laugh as only he could fit a full size hacksaw in.

 

On another note the knurling tool is looking salvageable:

 

 

Hoping to clean up the old leather working tools and flog to some yuppie with more money than sense to compliment their AGA! ?

[dpmiller]

Reminds me of my time studying in Edinburgh- the course had a segment in the Jewel & Esk College, the result of which was -yes- a barn door toolbox, and a meaty big tap wrench with knurled handles...

[Onoff]

14 minutes ago, dpmiller said:

Reminds me of my time studying in Edinburgh- the course had a segment in the Jewel & Esk College, the result of which was -yes- a barn door toolbox, and a meaty big tap wrench with knurled handles...

 

Very basic tap wrench. Must have been made pretty early on, like straight after the perfect 2" cube / drill drift. Still looking for one knurled screw and a handle! I still use it's bigger brother to this day, will dig it out. (A bit more complicated to make that one).


 

 

A bit later on I made this:

 

 

This little clamp. Always liked it but never used it since I made it tbh:

 

I've even got my tray work somewhere and the bending tool I made for that though I did that years after the mechanical stuff above.

[Stones]

I've been reading this with interest as I've a few tools that need some attention.  Phosphoric Acid would seem to be the way to go.  A couple of questions for @Jeremy Harris - what is the best method: paint on or fully immerse (or is this really dependant on the level of rust removal required)? What concentration would you suggest, as there seem to be various offerings out there?  Once finished, I note your earlier comments that you should avoid rinsing off, just remove excess and allow to dry naturally to preserve protective coating that remains. I also note what you say about degreasing - and particular recommendations in respect of the best way to achieve?

 

I've also seen white vinegar mentioned as a possible rust remover.  Has anyone tried this?

 

[Onoff]

17 minutes ago, Stones said:

I've been reading this with interest as I've a few tools that need some attention.  Phosphoric Acid would seem to be the way to go.  A couple of questions for @Jeremy Harris - what is the best method: paint on or fully immerse (or is this really dependant on the level of rust removal required)? What concentration would you suggest, as there seem to be various offerings out there?  Once finished, I note your earlier comments that you should avoid rinsing off, just remove excess and allow to dry naturally to preserve protective coating that remains. I also note what you say about degreasing - and particular recommendations in respect of the best way to achieve?

 

I've also seen white vinegar mentioned as a possible rust remover.  Has anyone tried this?

 

 

I'd go citric acid tbh or spend out on some Deox-C. Less dangerous if you get a splash in the face for a start. Phosphoric acid in my experience just converts the rust to a stable black oxide. It's great though for treating the flash rust you get after the part comes out of the citric acid bath and been rinsed/dried.

[Stones]

@Onoff I think you linked to this earlier:

 

https://www.toolstation.com/central-heating-descaler-silencer/p43193

 

a combo of citric and phosphoric acids.  Did you experiment with it at all?

[Onoff]

9 minutes ago, Stones said:

@Onoff I think you linked to this earlier:

 

https://www.toolstation.com/central-heating-descaler-silencer/p43193

 

a combo of citric and phosphoric acids.  Did you experiment with it at all?

 

Can't remember if it was me who linked it. Not tried it. The phosphoric acid I've been playing with is 40% so a bit higher than your link that is only 8%.

 

Honestly, keeping the citic acid heated made for super rapid derusting. All the acids don't forget encompass the part and get in all the nooks and crannies. Electrolysis is line of sight. 

 

 

[Onoff]

I would appear you can leave rusted steel components in a citric acid bath for too long. Been in there since November 10th! Might go fishing tomorrow and see what's left.

[Onoff]

Well...my own fault...'cos I'm a slack git! 

 

In the old bath filled with citric acid solution I've left stuff since NOVEMBER. 

 

The solution has turned jet black. Some components left in there I think might be "losing mass" but aren't rusting as in red rusting.

 

The components are covered in a hard, crystalline substance. So hard I have to scrape it off with a sharp knife. Anyone got any ideas what it is? Once you've scraped the lumps off you can, with a bit of pressure crumble them but it's still bloody hard to do. This is one of the mower blades:

 

 

Also any ideas of a solution (as in liquid) that might get rid of it quicker than mechanically scraping etc.

 

Cheers

[Onoff]

Thought I'd have another bash with citric acid. Need to do a couple of spare steel wheels for the wife's Pug, some lawnmower deck parts and some old lifting chains for the BiL. (I started off doing the wheels with electrolysis a while back. It wouldn't get paint off, I tried sand blasting...then gave up. This time they'll just get a coat of Lidl Baufix black metal paint and be done with it).

 

144L blue barrel. 72L of hot water and 10kg of citric acid powder. 

 

 

 

 

Did think about painting the barrel black to absorb more heat from this lovely sunshine.