Garage build options

[Kelvin]

Our planning proposal includes a largish garage/workshop/music room which is 10.5m by 6m. The original plan was to build it is a smaller version of our longhouse house in a timber kit. Prior to costs going mental it was affordable but it is the obvious place to do a bit of cost engineering. We were in the Western Isles at the weekend and saw loads of metal storage/garage outbuildings. It the first time I’ve had a good chance to look at them and we really like them. They look very agricultural which will fit in with the farms around us. I’m expecting a quote back from Catnic for their Matrix metal SIP system. It might well be as dear as the timber kit route. 
 

Any other suggestions? This is the look we are going for. 

[joe90]

I called my workshop a garage as it’s only a garage you can claim the VAT back on with a new build.

[Kelvin]

Yep that’s how I’ve asked the quotes to be worded and the drawings 

[Iceverge]

I too quite like the shape and design of a simple metal building. 

 

Maybe a portal steel frame with some insulated steel panels externally might work. 

 

https://www.steelroofsheets.co.uk/categories/insulated-cladding/

 

Couple this with a couple of cans of high quality airtight foam, https://www.uksealants.co.uk/illbruck-fm330-air-tight-expanding-foam-gun-grade.html 

 

You'll have a very cosy garage. 

 

[kommando]

You want the 40mm insulated panels for a garage, no condensation provided its airtight except at the car door. The ridge is the area to be 100% airtight as the roof panels meet there leaving a gap, there is an internal ridge that is used but behind it and under the outer ridge you need a tight packing of insulation. There are foam fillers that match the sheet profile under the top ridge plate but do not rely on these for airtightness as the top ridge plate is 1mm steel with little strength to resist being picked up slightly by high winds, really only good for keeping birds out.

 

Pics are of the internal ridge plate that sits on the top purlins and under the panels.

 

 

 

 

[Bozza]

I built (not yet finished) this thing.  It’s timber framed and clad in steel and leftover larch.  Has a concrete floor.
 

Due to budget restrictions I hand built it myself, and I’m not a tradesman but ok with joinery & diy.  It’s 8m x 4m x 3.9m high.  I had pp for garage so got the vat back on materials.  Inside the rear half has a loft space - storage and the front half is a vaulted ceiling, for a workshop area.  
 

Never built a building before, so I followed building standards for a dwellinghouse and tried to copy what my proper builders did in our actual house.  Idea being if I built it like a house it would take me way beyond min standards for an outbuilding.  So it has DPCs, breathable membranes etc etc.  it’s even plaster-boarded inside.   
 

I bought heaps of 4x2 in a builders material auction and built modular 2.4x 2.4m osb clad frame panels for the walls.  Shopped around for everything to cut costs.  My budget was as cheap as I could do it to the best possible standard.  I didn’t keep a running total but think I’ve spent around £5-6k on it that being current lockdown/covid costs.    I think I’ve ended up with a circa £15-20k building.  It was hard work but good fun learning new skills etc eg building the roof.

 

I did consider buying a metal frame to be installed but by the time I factored in everything it was obviously more expensive.

 

We were hit hard by Storm Erwin etc but the building was unaffected.  Which was reassuring.

 

Hope this helps for ideas.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[markc]

@Bozza that’s a damn nice garage, well done

[gaz_moose]

Are you guys DIYing the slabs for these or do you get a company in to do that part? im in the process of planning a 29 square metre garage and cant really decide if im brave/foolish enough to do my own foundations.

[markc]

3 minutes ago, gaz_moose said:

Are you guys DIYing the slabs for these or do you get a company in to do that part? im in the process of planning a 29 square metre garage and cant really decide if im brave/foolish enough to do my own foundations.

Garage founds and slabs are pretty easy, much smaller area than a house and a few rough spots aren’t a problem.

[Bozza]

Gaz, I had exact same dilemma as yourself re slab/founds.   Never even mixed concrete before.   I probably over engineered mine out of an abundance of caution and self doubt, as follows:

 

For my 8x4 structure I dug trenches with 6 deeper depths at corners and mid way point, filled with concrete.  Then blockwork course onto that.  Popped in dpc and storm straps.  Cement floor/slab in between.  So kind of a combo of strip, pillar and slab.  so when I did my frame it tield into the block work and the cemented in straps.
 

If you are literally on about mixing and pouring the entire 29sqm with a cement mixer yourself (as I did) maybes think about dividing your slab into three sections doing one section a day.  Suspect a single pour would be stronger but that’s a lot of work for one person.  I did one half of my slab (16 sqm) in a oner.  Then did the other half in two section, which was far more manageable.  With hindsight I’d have divided my slab/floor into 4 quarters and done it that way.  Divide and conquer.

 

my advice is as a non pro though just please bear that in mind, I’m no expert in foundations.

 

 

 

 

[markc]

I wouldnt self mix a 29sqm slab unless you have a couple of strong people (no sexism here) to mix and barrow (with a big mixer) plus 2 more spreading and tamping. Even then it will be hard going.

29sqm at say 100mm thick is just under 3 cube of concrete plus edge strips etc so say 4 cube which is a little under 10 tonnes wet to move, level and finish.

2 people can level and finish that with ready mix delivered.

 

Edited July 21, 2022 by markc

[gaz_moose]

cheers for the replies guys.

 

I think it would be the death of my mixer if i attempted mixing that much with it, plus it would be too much aggro, better to just spend the money on some things.

i was just panning on using a trench foundation and getting the mixer lorry to back right upto the edge. 

[Bozza]

With hindsight, with my barn project, I would have got a pour in, and offset the extra costs of doing so by working extra hours / days at my job on the days I ultimately spent DIYing it.    You could probably work out the cubic meter age you’d need and how much aggregate, cement, sand etc you’d need if DIYing it, add in fuel or electric costs of your mixer, etc etc.    bad back etc etc.  if those costs were £thousands less than a pour fair enough but I doubt it would be TBH. 
 

good luck.

 

 

[Kelvin]

I’m going to go with a Murray Steel insulated building. I’ll be able to get erected before the end of the year and then I can use it for storage etc 

[SuperJohnG]

I recently got a quote from murray steel buildings for a 10m x 6m. 

 

Was 15k not including the vat, which was no insulated panels. I was going to get insulated to avoid condensation but apparently they have an coating to stop condensation. I only need it for storing my tractor and array of attachments so not worried about keeping anything warm. 

 

Seemed good value. I do however fancy a scottish larch clad building. Not sure if I could do it cheaper than the 15k though by going stick build. 

[joe90]

7 minutes ago, SuperJohnG said:

I was going to get insulated to avoid condensation but apparently they have an coating to stop condensation.

I was going to insulate my shipping container but over two years it has had no condensation at all!.

[Kelvin]

29 minutes ago, SuperJohnG said:

I recently got a quote from murray steel buildings for a 10m x 6m. 

 

Was 15k not including the vat, which was no insulated panels. I was going to get insulated to avoid condensation but apparently they have an coating to stop condensation. I only need it for storing my tractor and array of attachments so not worried about keeping anything warm. 

 

Seemed good value. I do however fancy a scottish larch clad building. Not sure if I could do it cheaper than the 15k though by going stick build. 

That’s pretty good value. 
 

My garage will also be partitioned as I want to use it as a workshop so some insulation will make it easier to use. 

[Kelvin]

Got quote back. Decent price. £22k ex VAT for 40mm insulated roof and walls for 10.5mx6m with single roller door, personal door and double window. That’s supply only. Single skin is £16k. They have various insulation levels. 

[gaz_moose]

i bet you could live in an insulated one though, for reference there is a place round my way that sells the 40mm insulated panelling for £18 psm. 

wonder how loud it is inside the non insulated one when it rains.

[Kelvin]

24 minutes ago, gaz_moose said:

i bet you could live in an insulated one though, for reference there is a place round my way that sells the 40mm insulated panelling for £18 psm. 

wonder how loud it is inside the non insulated one when it rains.

My plan is to partition it at the window end into a more comfortable space. I’ll go with the 40mm insulation option for the whole build but do a bit more at the partitioned end eventually. My original idea was to also have a folding wall between the garage section and the workshop section so I can extend either area if I needed it. 

 

 

[kommando]

19 hours ago, Kelvin said:

My original idea was to also have a folding wall between the garage section and the workshop section so I can extend either area if I needed it. 

On mine I have columns separating the inside into 6 bays, I have a wall with sliding doors partitioning off the 2 bays that face North with a window that has a view. But that partitioning can be moved. 

 

If you ever need to replace a sheet then the 40mm being the most popular is held in stock, above 40mm needs ordering and in minimum quantities. There are also 0.5 mm thick sheets in plastisol for recovering the outer skin leaving the original sheet underneath.

[Kelvin]

2 hours ago, kommando said:

On mine I have columns separating the inside into 6 bays, I have a wall with sliding doors partitioning off the 2 bays that face North with a window that has a view. But that partitioning can be moved. 

 

If you ever need to replace a sheet then the 40mm being the most popular is held in stock, above 40mm needs ordering and in minimum quantities. There are also 0.5 mm thick sheets in plastisol for recovering the outer skin leaving the original sheet underneath.

Thanks for the info. Is it warm enough in the winter? Would it be possible to partition one end and add more insulation to that to use it more like an office? 

 

[kommando]

1 minute ago, Kelvin said:

Thanks for the info. Is it warm enough in the winter? Would it be possible to partition one end and add more insulation to that to use it more like an office? 

 

Its only been finished since spring but even without the partition it was warm enough to work in but not to sit. I will be adding extra insulation based on how it feels over winter. As the head height is good there is room for a suspended floor with insulation below that so that will be part of the extra insulation. The windows are double glazed and all the joints between the panels are filled with expanding foam or a bead of silicone so its very airtight. 

[DevonKim]

@Bozza

 

What a nice looking garage!  I'd really like to build something similar - any chance of some photos of the inside?  

[Bozza]

2 hours ago, DevonKim said:

@Bozza

 

What a nice looking garage!  I'd really like to build something similar - any chance of some photos of the inside?  

Cheers.  Unfinished inside I’m afraid - have spent the summer on landscaping - will post pics once finished possible circa 2026