Panic buying timber!

[Bonner]

Suddenly got a joiner lined up to start next Monday but need to order all the material for stud walls PDQ 😲

CLS or regularised timber (4x2 nominal)?

Door casings rebated or separate stop beads (114mm)?

[Thorfun]

what does your joiner say you should get? I'd be checking with them first!

[joe90]

I always preferred separate stop beads, it allows you to be accurate with the doors it case either the frame or door is not completely square!. Fit the door with hinges and catch then fit the stop beads leaving a 1 mm gap for paint or varnish 🤷‍♂️

[Bonner]

57 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

what does your joiner say you should get? I'd be checking with them first!

He prefers CLS as it’s easier to work with but regularised is cheaper and a bit wider (95 vs 89mm)

[Bonner]

58 minutes ago, joe90 said:

I always preferred separate stop beads, it allows you to be accurate with the doors it case either the frame or door is not completely square!. Fit the door with hinges and catch then fit the stop beads leaving a 1 mm gap for paint or varnish 🤷‍♂️

That makes sense, just thought a rebated frame would feel more solid but suppose you wouldn’t notice any difference once it’s done

[Thorfun]

1 hour ago, Bonner said:

He prefers CLS as it’s easier to work with but regularised is cheaper and a bit wider (95 vs 89mm)

Do you need wider internal walls? Our TF company used 89mm CLS for ours. 
 

if your joiner prefers CLS is he likely to charge more to use non-CLS as it might make things take longer? If so it could negate any savings on materials. 
 

just a thought. 

[joe90]

1 hour ago, Bonner said:

That makes sense, just thought a rebated frame would feel more solid but suppose you wouldn’t notice any difference once it’s done

If the frame or door is out a bit with a rebated frame your knackered, if the door warps a little in the future you can move them 👍, I also tend to glue them in case people slam doors (my pet hate) 🤷‍♂️

[Bonner]

5 minutes ago, joe90 said:

If the frame or door is out a bit with a rebated frame your knackered, if the door warps a little in the future you can move them 👍, I also tend to glue them in case people slam doors (my pet hate) 🤷‍♂️

Okay, I’m convinced! 😄 Thanks Joe

[Bonner]

8 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

Do you need wider internal walls? Our TF company used 89mm CLS for ours. 
 

if your joiner prefers CLS is he likely to charge more to use non-CLS as it might make things take longer? If so it could negate any savings on materials. 
 

just a thought. 

No, you’re right. Labour costs more than the material so I’m better off staying with standard. Cheers

[Gus Potter]

3 hours ago, Bonner said:

Suddenly got a joiner lined up to start next Monday but need to order all the material for stud walls PDQ 😲

CLS or regularised timber (4x2 nominal)?

Door casings rebated or separate stop beads (114mm)?

Hope this helps a bit. Just watch the timber thickness.. as in an 89 depth it is often 38 mm thick as opposed to 45mm thick that you get with grade C16/ 24  95 x 45.

 

Please ignore the branding, it's just a snippet I have in one of my data sheets, makes for easy reading though.

[Thorfun]

49 minutes ago, Gus Potter said:

Hope this helps a bit. Just watch the timber thickness.. as in an 89 depth it is often 38 mm thick as opposed to 45mm thick that you get with grade C16/ 24  95 x 45.

 

Please ignore the branding, it's just a snippet I have in one of my data sheets, makes for easy reading though.

My whole house is 38mm thick CLS!! 140mm external and load bearing and the rest 89mm. 
 

seems pretty standard for TF companies. 

[Gus Potter]

4 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

seems pretty standard for TF companies. 

Yes it is standard stuff, nothing wrong with it. In fact most of the big TF companies seem to use it.

 

On the practical side if you are a self builder then you have to be more accurate to fix plasterboard to a 38mm wide stud than a 45mm wide stud. In certain windy places or if you have slightly higher walls (longer studs) it can work out economically if you use the slightly deeper 95 x 45 timbers as this lets you keep a 600 centre stud spacing rather than going for a 400 centre stud spacing. It's not just the extra timber as when you have 400 centre studs you get closer repeating bridges which impacts on the insulation performance.

 

The main thing is that an 89 x 38 mm stud has different load bearing and wind resisting properties compared with a 95 x 45 size. Would be a shame to do a lot of work and BC knock you back. Best to check first.

 

 

 

 

[MortarThePoint]

Aren't CLS and Regularised both eased edge? Why does Chippie prefer the CLS? Is it because it's lighter? Or is CLS typically straighter?

 

Spot whose not a TF expert 🙂

Edited May 30, 2022 by MortarThePoint

[Bonner]

Thanks for all the replies, should have explained its for internal (non load bearing) stud walls. Large part of them are 3.3m high, hence wanting the slightly thicker section, as well as 400 centres! Another issue is door casings are 114mm to fit 89mil studs + 2x12.5 board. Next size is 138/140mm.

I am going to the timber merchant this morning to look over it.

[markc]

Easy to rip door casings down to size

[Thorfun]

9 hours ago, Gus Potter said:

Yes it is standard stuff, nothing wrong with it. In fact most of the big TF companies seem to use it.

 

On the practical side if you are a self builder then you have to be more accurate to fix plasterboard to a 38mm wide stud than a 45mm wide stud. In certain windy places or if you have slightly higher walls (longer studs) it can work out economically if you use the slightly deeper 95 x 45 timbers as this lets you keep a 600 centre stud spacing rather than going for a 400 centre stud spacing. It's not just the extra timber as when you have 400 centre studs you get closer repeating bridges which impacts on the insulation performance.

 

The main thing is that an 89 x 38 mm stud has different load bearing and wind resisting properties compared with a 95 x 45 size. Would be a shame to do a lot of work and BC knock you back. Best to check first.

 

 

 

 

all makes perfect sense. I'm using 2"x1" roofing battens for my service cavity battens and so will be fixing the OSB/plasterboard to that so all I have to do is ensure I hit the 38mm timbers with the battens and then I've got 45mm to hit with the plasterboard screws! 😉 

[JohnMo]

Our non load bearing partition;
45x70mm w/w/reg treated timbers faced with 12.5mm plasterboard.  Did noggins  (if that's the right word) every 1200mm, walls are up to 3.6m high.  Filled with 50mm dense Rockwool.  Seem well solid.

[Bonner]

41 minutes ago, JohnMo said:

Our non load bearing partition;
45x70mm w/w/reg treated timbers faced with 12.5mm plasterboard.  Did noggins  (if that's the right word) every 1200mm, walls are up to 3.6m high.  Filled with 50mm dense Rockwool.  Seem well solid.

Interesting, that’s quite a small section but good know it feels solid. What spacing are your studs?

[JohnMo]

600mm centres

[Simplysimon]

On 30/05/2022 at 22:29, MortarThePoint said:

Aren't CLS and Regularised both eased edge? Why does Chippie prefer the CLS? Is it because it's lighter? Or is CLS typically straighter?

 

Spot whose not a TF expert 🙂

i was always under the impression cls same in 63 & 89 x 38 and any thing else that has come along since is regularised, but i'm not canadian

[Bonner]

On 30/05/2022 at 22:29, MortarThePoint said:

Aren't CLS and Regularised both eased edge? Why does Chippie prefer the CLS? Is it because it's lighter? Or is CLS typically straighter?

Still not sure, seems to be all he knows or maybe he calls all framing timber CLS?!

 

Anyway I went to the timber merchant and looked at both, you can hardly tell the difference. CLS is paler in colour, presumably because it has more planed off. Both straight, smooth, kiln dried and rounded edges. Regularised (C16) is available in 3.6m lengths from stock and costs less per metre. So bigger timbers for less money with less waste, ordered!