Doors and Doorsets

[Ferdinand]

I am planning to use these doors on the Little Brown Bungalow x6, (Oak Veneer known as Cottage Oak or Geneva):

 

https://www.todd-doors.co.uk/cottage-oak-door

 

They tell me that this doorset would be appropriate:

 

https://www.todd-doors.co.uk/oak-door-lining-kit at about £72

 

As I am not that experienced with doors and frames, can anyone confirm that that a good choice, and whether there is a more reasonable alternative. In this case I would be able to paint the doorframe as the existing ones in the house are already painted.

 

Cheers 

 

Ferdinand

 

 

 

Edited May 22, 2017 by Ferdinand

[PeterW]

That is a Premdor Suffolk Oak - search for that and you will find it pretty much everywhere... 3 for 2 at Wickes so makes them £71.40 each

 

 

No point in putting an oak frame in and painting it, just fit it to the existing frame with 3 decent bearing hinges - Ironmongery Direct have the best selection.

[Oz07]

Haven't you answered your own question? Softwood linings and paint. Cheaper and these only look to be veneered anyway

 

As as it happens I'm just oak veneering some softwood linings I put in a couple of months ago. Don't ask. Customers...

[bassanclan]

You may as well get softwood linings, eg Benchmarx have them at £8.99+vat, but in a refurb situation you may have to buy timber e.g. 100x32 PSE and make your own linings.

[Ferdinand]

It is a new section of stud wall, so I can size the opening as I wish, which should be:

 

1981 x 762 mm for the door

= 1991 x 772 with a 5mm margin.

= 2051 x 1002 with 30mm for the door set.

 

(Minus the bit I trim off the door to allow for my floating floor, which is not pertinent)

 

Thanks for the replies - not yet confident in this area.

 

@PeterW Thanks .. will take a second look at Wickes.

 

Ferdinand

Edited May 22, 2017 by Ferdinand

[PeterW]

15 minutes ago, Ferdinand said:

1981 x 762 mm for the door

= 1991 x 772 with a 5mm margin.

= 2051 x 1002 with 30mm for the door set.

 

1981 x 762 mm for the door

= 1994 x 768 with a 3mm margin, 10mm floor

= 2024 x 828 with 30mm for the door set.

 

Also allow 10mm either side in a new frame to square the door lining in the studwork

[Ferdinand]

1 minute ago, PeterW said:

 

1981 x 762 mm for the door

= 1994 x 768 with a 3mm margin, 10mm floor

= 2024 x 828 with 30mm for the door set.

 

Also allow 10mm either side in a new frame to square the door lining in the studwork

 

Oooer typo.

 

The maths was good otherwise. I allege.

Edited May 22, 2017 by Ferdinand

[jack]

One data point about softwood: We used high-quality softwood linings. It was some of the nicest softwood I've seen, with few knots and a very fine planed finish. 

 

After 18 months, they've all seriously shrunk, leaving cracks at pretty-well every joint, several popped screw-heads, and a couple of places where knots have pushed the paint into a bubble.  I'm now going to have fill, sand and paint every single frame in the house.

 

I did expect some movement, but I've been a little surprised at how extensive it is.

 

The MDF skirting boards we used have all weathered very well. If I were doing this again, I'd consider using MDF for the door frames/lining.  Not sure whether there are other disadvantages of MDF in this scenario that I'm not aware of.

[Ferdinand]

8 minutes ago, jack said:

One data point about softwood: We used high-quality softwood linings. It was some of the nicest softwood I've seen, with few knots and a very fine planed finish. 

 

After 18 months, they've all seriously shrunk, leaving cracks at pretty-well every joint, several popped screw-heads, and a couple of places where knots have pushed the paint into a bubble.  I'm now going to have fill, sand and paint every single frame in the house.

 

I did expect some movement, but I've been a little surprised at how extensive it is.

 

The MDF skirting boards we used have all weathered very well. If I were doing this again, I'd consider using MDF for the door frames/lining.  Not sure whether there are other disadvantages of MDF in this scenario that I'm not aware of.

 

Is an "engineered" (= fingerjointed) door lining significantly more stable? Example,

 

For me it is worth an extra say £30-35 to get something that will not have to be repaired later.

 

Ferdinand

 

[Mikey_1980]

We got similar if not the same doors from Benchmarx, I think we ended up paying less then £50 a door, so it might be worth giving them a try.

 

Heres the link to them

 

http://www.benchmarxkitchens.co.uk/Suffolk-Oak-(1981-mm-High-Door)/p/480453

Edited May 22, 2017 by Mikey_1980

[jack]

I could see the engineered version making a difference.

 

Here're a couple of door frames in our house, taken today: 

 

[Crofter]

Useful thread- I'm also at the stage of shopping for doors and linings.

My decision is, I think, primed MDF arcs/skirts, and softwood linings. All to be painted white. It's going to work out far, far cheaper, and if everything matches it will look good.

Shame that Wickes don't just drop the prices on their doors... I don't need any three the same!

 

I've assumed that MDF linings would be insufficiently stiff to really do the job... but maybe that's just prejudice. Not liking the prospect of everything shrinking, I have to say.

Is there an optimum time/method for storing the wood to avoid this? I could buy it in just now and just stack it up in a corner somewhere, if that helps.

[PeterW]

5 minutes ago, Crofter said:

Shame that Wickes don't just drop the prices on their doors... I don't need any three the same!

 

Its mix and match on internal doors

[Ferdinand]

Haven't got around to thinking about skirtings yet :-).

[Oz07]

How soon did you try to get these finished i.e. Painted?

 

ive never had such extensive movement round internal linings must be done reason. 

 

I'd avoid mdf for linings myself. Skirt and arc is good

[jack]

1 hour ago, Oz07 said:

How soon did you try to get these finished i.e. Painted?

 

Can't remember - several weeks, at least (I think).

 

I'd like to know the reason too.  I've just assumed that the wood was sourced somewhere with high humidity levels relative to the average in our house.  Not a great deal that can be done about it, other than repair and re-paint.

 

We were always expecting re-paint within a couple of years, but I've certainly been caught out by just how much work will be required to get these all back to looking decent.  I'll be posting for advice in the relevant subforum when (if!) I get 5 mins to think about this.

[jack]

1 hour ago, Crofter said:

Not liking the prospect of everything shrinking, I have to say. Is there an optimum time/method for storing the wood to avoid this? I could buy it in just now and just stack it up in a corner somewhere, if that helps.

 

If the internal humidity is similar to what you expect it to be long term, then I imagine this would help.

[Ferdinand]

One problem then is that the humidity changes as a new house takes 12-36 months to dry out,

 

Argues for engineered or mdf. 

[Ferdinand]

5 hours ago, PeterW said:

That is a Premdor Suffolk Oak - search for that and you will find it pretty much everywhere... 3 for 2 at Wickes so makes them £71.40 each

 

 

No point in putting an oak frame in and painting it, just fit it to the existing frame with 3 decent bearing hinges - Ironmongery Direct have the best selection.

 

Checking on Wickes and Todd Doors product, I am not sure they are the same.

 

Looking at 1981x762mm Cottage Oak / Geneva doors (ie oak veneer with detailing like vertical planks):

 

Wickes - weight 27.5 kg, bottom trimming margin 20mm.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Geneva-Internal-Cottage-Oak-Veneer-Door-5-Panel-1981-x-762mm/p/214699

 

Todd Doors - weight 31.7kg (via Web Chat), bottom trimming margin 50mm

https://www.todd-doors.co.uk/cottage-oak-door

 

That suggests a different internal construction.

 

In this case I need the extra margin, and want heavy doors, so I will fork out the extra £15 or so per door.

 

Ferdinand.