Carrerahill Posted August 10, 2018 Author Share Posted August 10, 2018 Roof is taking shape, photos below are a little old now as the roof is fully sheeted, the gables are sheeted and the overhangs have been covered in OSB. So I am ready for fascias and soffits and then I can get the membrane and battens on ready for tiles. I picked up just short of 600 Russel Pennines last night. I am just back from the guttering and fascia supplier who has given me away a dry verge section and gutter bracket so I can mock-up all my heights and sizes. I am going to buy vented soffit boards, and fascia boards from him along with my dry verge and eaves protectors. My plan is to saw up a load of 4x2's or similar to make a mounting piece to nail to the rafter ends to mount the soffit boards, I can get them done tonight I think. I will then get the UPVC stuff next week and get that all pulled together. With any luck I can possibly start tiling next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted August 29, 2018 Author Share Posted August 29, 2018 So, here we are as of just now... As of last night I had 10 tiles fixed. The garage is now at least bone dry! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted January 18, 2019 Author Share Posted January 18, 2019 Been a while since I posted but the garage now has doors, a full roof, gable end cladding (timber to the front, UPVC to the rear) and most of the fascias and things on - 2 ridge tiles (front and back) but the cold weather kicked in and I don't want to be setting ridge tiles in the cold as the mortar would probably get damaged and I know I can frost-proof it but to be honest the membrane has only had 1 rainstorm it could not cope with and the leak was only via a batten nail hole. I'll get a selection of photos to post. I am also about to start the rear extension which I hope to have done by spring. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 Why not use a dry ridge system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 1 hour ago, ProDave said: Why not use a dry ridge system? +1, I always use dry ridge systems, crazy not to IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted January 21, 2019 Author Share Posted January 21, 2019 On 18/01/2019 at 17:18, ProDave said: Why not use a dry ridge system? On 18/01/2019 at 19:00, joe90 said: +1, I always use dry ridge systems, crazy not to IMO. In all honesty I don't really like them - I am a old school, if it was my house I would but for my garage considering I can hop up onto the roof to maintain it going forward I am not too fussed. I used a flexible dyed mortar from Instarmac which should remain in good nick for many many years. However, I did use dry verge! I know the benefits of the dry ridge, the installation benefits and the longevity of the system, I am just being a Luddite. I can be like this some times. I still prefer CAT5 and a cable from a socket than Wifi yet I like ICF's! Go figure! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 I have been thinking... if I use dry ridge I could get the ridge on in any weather (well maybe not hurricanes, snow and ice). So although I have put the end units on with mortar - I did these first so I could do the dry verge and also to attach a string line - I was thinking I could always use the DR system for the rest... Face my reservations head on and go for it. So I have Marley sentimental ridge tiles, I can get something like this: https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/manthorpe-roll-out-dry-vent-ridge-system-black-3m-pack.html The fixing of the ridge batten is my only "unknown" for now, I actually have a big bag of ridge batten brackets, the type you would attach to the rafter and it creates a little up-stand to which a batten can be fixed, that system would pose an issue for me as I would need to take the top row of tiles back off to fit these and I am not really in the market for undoing my work. However the datasheet for the system linked to above doesn't appear to come with brackets or even use them in the installation process. I have a 6x2 ridge beam on which the notched rafters sit, so not really that far down is a solid timber, my membrane covers this, my thinking is that I could cut pieces of batten to fit between the rafters and sit on the ridge beam, I can use this to build up to the required height a batten on which to fix the dry ridge system. Thoughts please gents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 49 minutes ago, Carrerahill said: I have a 6x2 ridge beam on which the notched rafters sit, so not really that far down is a solid timber, my membrane covers this, my thinking is that I could cut pieces of batten to fit between the rafters and sit on the ridge beam, I can use this to build up to the required height a batten on which to fix the dry ridge system. Thoughts please gents. I have a dry ridge system and used 150mm stainless steel screws straight into the ridge timber. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 (edited) 37 minutes ago, PeterStarck said: I have a dry ridge system and used 150mm stainless steel screws straight into the ridge timber. That will do! I did consider this, but having only seem images of it, and seeing the profile of the batten in the top, I just assumed battens were needed - but I don't necessarily see why - once tiles sit on it and screwed down it is not going anywhere. I also like the idea of the ventilation, I used a breathable membrane so assuming a bit of a vent up top will work well. The Manthorpe I looked at look like it needs supported by a batten, can you further comment on your install - sounds good to me, lay it in, bracket in, tile down, screw down, move on - job done. Edited January 22, 2019 by Carrerahill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gone West Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 @Carrerahill It was several years ago and the product might have changed but I used the Marley Universal Dry Hip/Ridge System. It was pretty straightforward to use. This is the PDF I downloaded at the time, it might be of some use. Marley Eternit Dry Fix Systems.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 Here are a few update pictures, I know we all prefer pictures! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Very substantial! Looks good. What classic(s) will call it home then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 On 01/02/2019 at 10:26, Onoff said: Very substantial! Looks good. What classic(s) will call it home then? Land Rover(s) possibly an old tractor one day and a visiting MG-TC when/if it comes to stay for weekends. Could you tell from the oil soaked board there was something old and leaky in there! Protecting the concrete is something I need to address before the concrete get's totally stained. I am going to get a few gallons of concrete sealer/hardener stuff - then I can make up my mind - to paint, or not to paint! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Paint for sure. Wire brush and Hoover the concrete to get any of the surface laitance off. You WILL have it and the paint sticks so much better with it gone. Darn sight more difficult to get paint to stick if oily. Divide the area into rough square metre boxes with some chalk. Dollop X litres of paint per square and go mad with a sacrificial yard broom. Job done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now