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service cavity battens in the corner of a room with internal PIR


Thorfun

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hello,

 

I'm wondering how others with timber frame houses have fixed service cavity battens to the studs in the corners when you have internal PIR? we have 80mm internal PIR covered with an AVCL so in the corners it's not possible to straight fix to the timber studs so do you simply screw at an angle and hope that you hit the stud? e.g.

 

1044864836_Screenshot2022-03-08at12_04_37.thumb.png.f28192a69045e6658fa9aa76ba77d76d.png

 

or is just attaching at bottom and top plate enough?

 

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3 minutes ago, cwr said:

You could attach more batten to the side of the existing batten.

too late for that I'm afraid! the walls are already full of mineral wool and the PIR is already attached to the studs (and in one room the VCL is already fixed). if there's no other option then I can potentially do that but it's a ball ache. 😉 

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4 minutes ago, cwr said:

You could attach more batten to the side of the existing batten.

and I presume you mean 'studs'? so add extra studs to the TF walls making them 80mm wider so it is past the PIR? that's a LOT of extra timber. plus a lot less insulation in between the studs.

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So essentially you are trying to screw diagonally through a batten into the corner of the stud. If you use some really sharp screws that screwfix sell that shouldn't be a problem.

 

Can be hard predrilling the batten on the diagonal. Id either bash the corner with a hammer to make a flat point for the drill or i suppose run them through the table saw to cut a corner off. Then your drill starts easily on the flat surface. 

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thanks guys. I like both those ideas. think I might amalgamate the two and see how I get on!

 

I'll need to use maths to figure out the length of screws needed for that diagonal though. it's a good job we have Google!

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thought of another question (although not specifically to do with the corner battens!). what is an acceptable distance between the fixings for the battens? 600mm? 800mm? or in true cowboy fashion 'that looks about right'?

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@ProDave how do you know how far apart to put the openings on the top batten? in your image below from another thread there doesn't seem to be any sort of standard?

 

Airtight_1.jpg

 

did you already know where sockets were going and so left top gaps accordingly or is it simply experience? 

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8 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

@ProDave how do you know how far apart to put the openings on the top batten? in your image below from another thread there doesn't seem to be any sort of standard?

 

Airtight_1.jpg

 

did you already know where sockets were going and so left top gaps accordingly or is it simply experience? 

I left a small gap into each compartment.  All around the room above is a removable strip of floor boards.  In theory it allows for provision of extra cabling, e.g. thinking ahead to when hdmi is old hat and something else has replaced it.

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5 minutes ago, ProDave said:

I left a small gap into each compartment.  All around the room above is a removable strip of floor boards.  In theory it allows for provision of extra cabling, e.g. thinking ahead to when hdmi is old hat and something else has replaced it.

ok, thanks. so there's no rhyme or reason, just a one or two entry points into each section. got it.

 

one more quick question, the gap at 450mm and 1150mm, you've previously said 'leave a small gap'. can you quantify 'small gap'? are we talking 50mm? 80mm? 100mm? I'm sure it doesn't matter but my brain likes to know the details of what I'm doing despite winging most of the bits I've done so far! although it has been educated winging it.

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13 minutes ago, Simplysimon said:

yes, but i would put a wide piece where the one horizontal on the page first and screw it to the one vertical on the page then fix diagonally into studs

sorry. I don't understand this at all! but it has been a long day.

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