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Struggling with timber to steel


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33 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

Low-tech is often best.

 

You can glue the board onto the bottom flange, and is tidy to lap the side boarding over it, and glue or screw the lap.

I was going to screw horizontal 3x2 across the battens next 

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9 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

So the bottom board can screw to that? Then plasterboard as fire protection? 2 layers grey or one layer pink.

Erm . Bottom board / pb screwed to that yes .  Grey or pink what ? 🙄 . Fire protection of what ? Steel beam on underground concrete fortress ??? . Remember no BC checks anything - so ……. 🤔 followed by 🙄 followed by 🤣 

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5 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

What's wrong with doing it properly? easier with 2 layers anyway as the first is usually a bit wobbly.

 

Ok, pedantry over until Monday when it will become vital to your safety.

Safety from what ? . Also can you please explain “ doing it properly “ - this is an alien term to me 🍷 

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2 minutes ago, pocster said:

doing it properly “ - this is an alien term to me

I read it somewhere.

Safety from the beam melting when it gets to 300C, and also protection from looking at an ugly beam.

Why not just paint it if not bothered? Red is good for showing that you are proud of your beam.

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  • 1 month later...
10 minutes ago, pocster said:

It’s strange how ‘ surprised’ I am that the electro magnetic works !!

it's pretty cool. but I still think I'll get a shot fire gun for when I need to attach more timber to steel. 🙂 

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Rotabroach (or other generic annular cutter) is also great for adding another ‘half’ hole to existing for misaligned holes.

use plenty of water (preferably with soluble oil) to keep the cutters cool and they last for ages before needing a regrind 

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1 hour ago, markc said:

Rotabroach (or other generic annular cutter) is also great for adding another ‘half’ hole to existing for misaligned holes.

use plenty of water (preferably with soluble oil) to keep the cutters cool and they last for ages before needing a regrind 

Yeah it does have a 'cap' you fill with something oil based and is then fed to the tip. Amazon messed around with the oil delivery i.e. it never happened. Presume it's noting special. I just stop every 30 seconds and shoot some wd40 in the hole.

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14 minutes ago, pocster said:

Yeah it does have a 'cap' you fill with something oil based and is then fed to the tip. Amazon messed around with the oil delivery i.e. it never happened. Presume it's noting special. I just stop every 30 seconds and shoot some wd40 in the hole.

It’s cutting oil, mix it roughly 1 part oil to 20-30 of water. WD is good but a squirt from a spray bottle or washing up liquid bottle every few seconds keeks the bits cool .. more important on the bigger diameter cutters.

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5 hours ago, pocster said:

the electro magnet works

There may be a lanyard attached so that you can hook it onto a beam/scaffold in case the power fails. More to protect the machine and those below than the operator.

 

It is not uncommon for the power to be switched off by the operator, oops, or someone below.

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1 minute ago, saveasteading said:

There may be a lanyard attached so that you can hook it onto a beam/scaffold in case the power fails. More to protect the machine and those below than the operator.

 

It is not uncommon for the power to be switched off by the operator, oops, or someone below.

You can just about see it in the photo . Too be honest if the power failed / cut off though the 20kg drill wouldn’t fall on your head it would swing straight into your face …

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6 hours ago, markc said:

for adding another ‘half’ hole to existing for misaligned holes.


Are you suggesting that @pocster can’t use a tape measure to get the holes in the right place ..???? He’s got great skills in measuring …. 

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