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First full self-build!


Rishard

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You really need 200mm min and preferably 300mm depth for Cellulosic filler to get down to a U-value of 0.12  Maybe to way to go is to use pre-cut lengths of Steicowall (see here ~P38  or equiv to make up the wall cassettes.  At least one of the member here ? @ProDave ? made up his own panels onsite.

 

We have an MBC TF house with this general profile albeit using Larsen strut box sections and cassettes pre-made in factory.  👍 on the battened service cavity.  The vertical were on 400mm centres so the OSB was but jointed every 3rd upright and then taped.  The battening then sealed the joint totally.  The service cavities made running electrics, plumbing, etc. an absolute doddle.

Edited by TerryE
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@Iceverge- I have done a super quick cost up of the build method above I got to £84m2 before I include the cellulose as I couldn’t find a cost for that . These were not my trade prices but pulled off Google searches so could come down a little bit. I did the same for block / 300mm dritherm 32 / block and got to £49 m2. If I times this by roughly 260m2 for my build then the cost difference is £9100 difference in the 2 methods. And one doesn’t include the insulation. I don’t want to rule it out completely but like all things on the build, cost will always inform my choice. If I was charging out my time then it would certainly be cost effective as you could gain back that cost on working time. Happy to put in the work to reduce my costs. If I had a larger budget I would probably buy a timber frame kit and have it water tight in weeks rather than months. Plus the carbon benefits. 

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@TerryE- I would love to see @ProDave panels. I’ve made timber frame cassettes in the past for garden rooms. So quick to produce and progress. Sadly on that last job osb & 4x2 almost doubled in price. Safe to say the customer opted for some changes in the design to use insulated steel panels for the roof to cut costs. 

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I can't answer for @ProDave, but his off-forum blog is Willow Burn Blog.  Unfortunately a lot of the earlier content was on Dave's blog on another self-build forum that was shut down by its owner in 2016.

 

Dave didn't scrape the content before the site went offline so the only access to the content is on the Wayback site, such as The Only Way is Up, but unfortunately Wayback only scraped the text content and not all of Dave's lovely Pics. ☹️

Edited by TerryE
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25 minutes ago, TerryE said:

I can't answer for @ProDave, but his off-forum blog is Willow Burn Blog.  Unfortunately a lot of the earlier content was on Dave's blog another self-build forum that was shut down by its owner in 2016.

 

Dave didn't scrape the content before the site went offline so the only access to the content is on the Wayback site, such as The Only Way is Up, but unfortunately Wayback only scraped the text content and not all of Dave's lovely Pics. ☹️

I have the text and the pictures for the early posts, I need to get around to re constituting them to make the blog complete.

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1 minute ago, TerryE said:

@ProDave, Your blog is a Wordpress site so you can just paste in Rich text content into the standard editor or if your posts are in Word format there are a range of add-ins which will be decent conversion for you.

I grabbed them all as plain text.

 

The reason I have not tried it, is I am worried if I go and edit the first few posts to "complete" them, that they won't still display in the correct order.  I guess I need to try it by editing a couple of the recent posts, that don't actually matter, and see if the order changes.

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1 hour ago, ProDave said:

The reason I have not tried it, is I am worried if I go and edit the first few posts to "complete" them, that they won't still display in the correct order. 

As it happens the answer is the same on both: you can manually set the post date and time on both, with the default as "now".  Posts are listed in date order of the post date and time. You can edit any historic post and change its contents.

 

In fact (again on both) you can hide a blog post.  I do this when I am in the composing / proof reading cycle and I only publish it when I think it is good enough to be readable.

 

If you look at my early blog posts, you will see that they pre-date the foundation of the forum.  This is because I scraped the content of my posts from eBuild and set the DTS to be the original.

 

@Rishard Sorry about this diversion, but that is what we old farts tend to do.  You have to take the rough with the smooth. 🤣

Edited by TerryE
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On 03/03/2022 at 23:17, Iceverge said:

 

 

Stick frame on site in that case, cut out the cost of the timber frame factory. 

 

 

Outside to inside. 

Brick or cement board. 

Ventilated Cavity. 

Breather membrane. 

T&G woodfiber sheathing board.

Cellulose filled structural stud. 

OSB racking board taped as airtightness. 

Battened insulated service cavity. 

15mm Soundblock plasterboard. 

Skim. 

 

BELLISIMO!!! 

 

It's a very robust way of building.

No membranes for airtightness to get punctured.

Excellent windtightness (Often gets forgotten).

Woodfiber deals with bridging. Importantly around windows and doors. It a very tricky junction with block.

Fully breathable so very low chance of rot. 

Negative embodied energy.

Minimal wet trades.

Service cavity to make follow on trades a doddle. 

Excellent decrement decay.

Able to test and rectify airtightness as you go leading to really top ACH scores. ( almost impossible with block) 

Pumped insulation guarantees full fill. 

Permits a really chunky upstand to the floor slab. Performance of passive slab with the cost of a strip foundation. This junction is a really tough one with block. 

 

 

Don't underestimate the time and cost of detailing a block house to passive levels. It took me almost a week to make and fit OSB boxes around the window. Airtightness was probably another week, very sloppy and really a hope for the best affair. Cleaning the cavity ties took 2 days and mega skinned knuckles. Chasing and coring for electrics and ducts was insufferable. 

 

 

 

In regards to this post. Do you know of any members who have built using their own ijoist style stud walls rather than a supplied frame? 

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@Rishard I would say we have a fairly simple form - rectangular box with a couple of lean-to's. There might be more on my blog here but if not happy to send photies.

 

Used an insulated raft from AFT for the founds, then glulam for the sole plate. We bought the glulam and I joists as long lengths and cut them on site but you can also get them pre-cut (did this with the roof but it didn't work out quite as well as hoped).

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3 hours ago, Rishard said:

In regards to this post. Do you know of any members who have built using their own ijoist style stud walls rather than a supplied frame? 

 

If you search for "stick build" there's a good few examples of timber frames made on site. 

 

No I-joist ones I can't think of off hand. 

Edited by Iceverge
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  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...
On 04/03/2022 at 21:57, ProDave said:

I grabbed them all as plain text.

 

The reason I have not tried it, is I am worried if I go and edit the first few posts to "complete" them, that they won't still display in the correct order.  I guess I need to try it by editing a couple of the recent posts, that don't actually matter, and see if the order changes.

 

Late comment.

 

If you are on Wordpress (or indeed Buildhub Blogs) you can set dates into the past, so rearrange everything.

 

(You can also - and on BH - set dates into the future, as a kind of draft system for posts. Just don't forget.)

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