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Airtightness tape for windows and doors


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  • 2 weeks later...

I've spent so much on insulation and everything that goes with it, not sure if I'll ever recover the costs from a thermal improvement point of view, but, we have assembled a house not only for us, but for future generations too. 

 

Good job.

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Energy savings are obviously one aspect. 

 

Don't forget the thermal comfort aspects and the protection of the structure you're achieving. 

 

Payback only on energy costs are a very narrow window through which to view thermal upgrades. 

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9 hours ago, Iceverge said:

 

Don't forget the thermal comfort aspects and the protection of the structure you're achieving.

This is what I keep telling myself when I see the big hole in my finances caused by a hell of a lot of Steico wood fibre products.

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19 hours ago, Iceverge said:

Payback only on energy costs are a very narrow window through which to view thermal upgrades. 

 

How I wish more people saw it in that way. Couldn't be more true. It's also healthier and provides a much more pleasurable and comfortable environment to be in, providing it's done right of course. I personally think that due to their mostly passive nature, thermal upgrades are cheap for what you get.

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 28/10/2021 at 09:38, Iceverge said:

A primer is the correct choice. 

 

Tapes need a dry and very importantly dust free surface to stick to. Masonry is rarely this without a primer. 

Is the expensive primer from the tape manufacturer required though, or are there cheaper primers/methods of preparing the substrate?

 

I'm looking at the Winflex-I which needs PHS Ottello Adhesive Sealant to bond to block work, which itself needs a primer. Suspect this may be the cheapest option.

 

Alternative I'm considering are the Isocell Airstop products, or Pro Clima Contega Solido SL though I'm unclear if the latter requires a primer.

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On 28/10/2021 at 09:38, Iceverge said:

A primer is the correct choice. 

 

Tapes need a dry and very importantly dust free surface to stick to. Masonry is rarely this without a primer. 

Is the expensive primer from the tape manufacturer required though, or are there cheaper primers/methods of preparing the substrate?

 

I'm looking at the Winflex-I which needs PHS Ottello Adhesive Sealant to bond to block work, which itself needs a primer. Suspect this may be the cheapest option.

 

Alternative I'm considering are the Isocell Airstop products, or Pro Clima Contega Solido SL though I'm unclear if the latter requires a primer.

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On 27/10/2021 at 14:58, Declan52 said:

The tape I used from gerband required a type of glue that you applied like silicone into y the block work. It was a flexible adhesive and very very sticky.

https://passivehousesystems.co.uk/product/winflex-i-airtight-window-tape/

https://passivehousesystems.co.uk/product/gerband-fortax-6400-airtight-sealant/

 

Hi Declan 

Roughly how much adhesive did you use per roll of tape? (Or rolls of tape per tube of adhesive).

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2 hours ago, cwr said:

Hi Declan 

Roughly how much adhesive did you use per roll of tape? (Or rolls of tape per tube of adhesive).

I reckon I got maybe 5m  of a bead from a tube. This was mainly due to the rough texture of my lightweight blocks. If your blocks are smoother with not many holes then it will go much further. 

On blocks I cut the nosel much wider compared to when I had to stick the tape to concrete on the back of my window cills. Maybe talking at least double the amount of adhesive coming out of the tube on rough blocks compared to smooth concrete.

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So all these products are to seal the gaps between window & masonry?

 

Is there a reason gripfil or silicone is not used to plug these gaps up? They could surely achieve a similar result & are much more readily available? 

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1 hour ago, Andehh said:

So all these products are to seal the gaps between window & masonry?

 

Is there a reason gripfil or silicone is not used to plug these gaps up? They could surely achieve a similar result & are much more readily available? 

They aren't flexible. As the walls shrink a tiny bit this adhesive will allow the tape to move so you won't end up with cracks at the joins and in turn air leakage. They are also very very sticky. You will understand when you get it in your hair!!

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8 hours ago, cwr said:

Thanks Declan, that's good to know.

 

So gonna need a lot of adhesive... I wonder if a parge coat would help reduce the amount needed much.

That might be a decent idea as it's only the window and door revels that need some so not really a lot of mix needed.

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It's tempting to substitute airtightness products for others when you're building. The difference is only apparent months later. The flexible airtight sealent I used, (blue from a sausage) never really truly sets. Its like chewing gum, nasty if you get it where you don't need it or try to remove it. My brother looked over the scaffolding one day and declared it the worst thing he'd ever worked with such was its limpet like adhesion. 

 

Also for airtight tape. It seems to completely weld itself to any well prepared surface. Not instantly, but after a few weeks trying to remove it is almost completely impossible. I was so convinced I used it to seal our shower tray and bath. No leaks so far. I'm sure someone will tell me off....

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