WWilts Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 Limestone spoil has some sandy soil in it (negligible clay). Meant to hold up 100mm slab. Some compaction of the limestone done. How to test if compaction was sufficient? Tried hammering in two improvised penetrometers: a) 4mm diameter metal b) 45mm square wood. Quite different results. What test would be sensible? PS Does the surface need to be near-level before the slab is poured? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 Good rule of thumb is stamping your foot, if you leave a decent print then could do with more compaction. A stake can still be hammered into compacted ground. The idea is to get rid of any voids and prevent further settlement. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted September 11, 2021 Author Share Posted September 11, 2021 Tks. How important is it to level out any undulations in the hardcore before putting down blinding & then DPM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 1 hour ago, WWilts said: Tks. How important is it to level out any undulations in the hardcore before putting down blinding & then DPM? Needs to be reasonably level but the blinding is there to level it up 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 That isn't too good. The stone seems lumpy and not especially well graded (finer stuff that fills the gaps all the way through.) Also too rough on the surface, so you should spread fines on it, sand or stone dust. The trouble you then get is that it might be rather thick and will take foot prints. Why does a smooth finish matter? 1. your dpm will puncture when you walk on it or pour the concrete, and might have air pockets left at high stones. 2. all concrete shrinks, and should be allowed to. With this surface it will not move where rough, and cracking is likely. Difficult to tell the scale. What size would you say the biggest stones are, roughly? How big is the floor area? As to strength, I can't imagine you will ever fall through it, but there might be chance of some movement and cracking over many years. as the stone seems to be so variable 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted September 11, 2021 Author Share Posted September 11, 2021 15 minutes ago, saveasteading said: Difficult to tell the scale Blocks in pic are 215x440mm. Largest stones at least 100mm. Scale as in pic of foundation masonry On top of this stone, builder intends scalpings (compressed) topped by blinding sand. Top of floor screed will be at top of visible block. From screed surface down: 65mm screed 100mm insulation 100mm concrete DPM Top of underslab drain opening is about 280 mm below top of floor screed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 1 minute ago, WWilts said: scalpings (compressed) topped by blinding sand No problem then. The only issue I see is that the very big stones sticking up might rock, so give them a bash before the scalpings 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ETC Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 Put the DPM above the floor slab. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 my own opinion is that 50mm of sand is too much as it is difficult to keep it from kicking up, 40 scalpings and 10 sand good, which may be what you have in mind anyway. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted September 11, 2021 Author Share Posted September 11, 2021 2 hours ago, ETC said: Put the DPM above the floor slab. Is there some reason why not everyone does that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ETC Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 Easier to do once the roof is on and windows in. No mucking about trying to keep the DPM clean and tear free plus it’s easier to connect the DPC in the walls to the DPM in the floor. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted September 11, 2021 Author Share Posted September 11, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, ETC said: Easier to do Yes, but found this: "Typically, a DPM is a polyethylene sheet laid under a concrete slab to prevent the concrete from gaining moisture through capillary action" and this, re sulphates + limestone https://www.constructionnews.co.uk/archive/limestone-ban-targets-sulphates-28-05-1998/ Have limestone, cannot exclude presence of sulphates in the small amount of other soil Edited September 11, 2021 by WWilts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 That’s from 1998. I’d go with the advice above and move on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted September 11, 2021 Author Share Posted September 11, 2021 1 hour ago, PeterW said: I’d go with the advice above DPM over slab? Or under slab? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonyshouse Posted September 12, 2021 Share Posted September 12, 2021 I hate blinding, I live vb in floors 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conor Posted September 12, 2021 Share Posted September 12, 2021 That's too rough. You need a layer of crusher run or fines compacted over it. Hire a roller for a day. Much more fun. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted September 12, 2021 Share Posted September 12, 2021 15 hours ago, ETC said: Put the DPM above the floor slab. +1 to this. Put one below if you want but it will be sacrificial other way is use a 25mm layer of Jablite / EPS70 on top of the stone and blinding then do the DPM - protects and provides insulation at the same time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted September 12, 2021 Share Posted September 12, 2021 Agreed re contaminants/chemicals attacking the concrete. In some regions/ situations it is even necessary to put dpm between the ground and footings. With the dpm below, the concrete will forever be dry and inert. Another reason for the dpm being under is so that the concrete pour is clean. Sand and stone should not mix with it and diminish the concrete quality. Also, delivered concrete has a precise mix of ingredients, including water. If poured onto a dry stone or sand surface it will lose water and the mix is changed. And then there is allowing the concrete to slip on the surface while it cures and shrinks, reducing cracking This matters a lot with a commercial building. A lot of it doesn't matter too much with a house, where loads are low, and there is a layer of insulation, then screeds and floor coverings. ie an inferior job gets by , usually. But why not do it as well as possible? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted September 12, 2021 Author Share Posted September 12, 2021 Sulphate resistant concrete* was recommended by geologist for a site within about a mile, which (unlike our site) has clay. But water can probably carry sulphates to our site. So we don't dare omit the DPM below the (ordinary) concrete slab. Sulphates swung it, together with the issues highlighted by some. Sulphates might be a problem for others, especially those excavating deep for basements. For those interested in the technical details re sulphates & soils, & the damage possible in the presence of water, there's a detailed (free) report. Here. Lots of big words. Pg 70 or thereabouts was a sufficient dose for me. *"Sulphate Design Class DS-5; Aggressive Chemical Environment for Concrete (ACEC) Class AC-4s" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWilts Posted September 13, 2021 Author Share Posted September 13, 2021 22 hours ago, PeterW said: 25mm layer of Jablite / EPS70 on top of the stone and blinding Great idea. Will help cushion the underslab drain too, at its highest point. Is the blinding still necessary if EPS used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 Not really as long as it’s flattish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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