Vijay Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 I use my garage where I live most days and I absolutely hate it being detached and at the back of my house. I maintain my car on my drive so every time I need tools I need to run to the back of my house while leaving stuff on my front drive - not great in London where I once had my German Shepherd nicked! The garage is massively important to me and something I will use a lot as I love messing with my cars and fixing stuff. Garage size is approx 11m x 6m internal with a big 5 odd metre garage door at the front and then I will have double doors to the rear. The internal door (from house to garage) will be as insulated as I can get it or possibly 2 doors. I would love to be able to be in my garage in winter wearing a T shirt and be comfortable. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger440 Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 My BCO wanted to know why there 100mm of eps under my garage slab.I told it him it wasn't being heated, just wanted a stable enviroment to keep cars in. He was happy with that and asked no more questions. The intention was of course to fit heating, but as ive moved now, its doing exactly what i said, maintaining a stable enviroment for cars. All thats in there is a dessicant dehumidifier keeping the chill off and humidity at 50% The threshold still annoys me though. I cut the EPS away to the depth of the block paving that meets the base, but my biggest error was not insetting the base in front of the door. as a consequence, there is 6 inches of concrete outside. But given the slab area is over 60sqm, its probably not actually an issue. Its pretty snug in there as it is.It is exceptionally airtight. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 Did you find any specific garage door manufacturers better than others for the seals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger440 Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 Seals were good on mine. However if you recall, it turns out the doors were not actually fully insulated as quoted. I did bugger around a lot to get the seals tight though, but as all the bracketry was adjustable that wasn't a problem. till got to do it all agian now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 (edited) OK to answer your original question I find the worst point on my sectional door for tightness is the bottom seals. I can't see any light around the edges, but if rain drives into the door it can get underneath it. This is due partly to the threshold not being entirely smooth. I have purchased a rubber threshold seal for the door to seal down onto and stop this happening. It would also help airtightness. http://www.garagedoorseals.co.uk/c-garage_door_threshold_seal.htm You would want some kind of break under this. Even 20mm of PIR like they use around the edge of screed with UFH would be better than nothing at all. You could put this under the rubber seal and I think drive over it without worrying about the weight due to the small width. The rubber seal would span across it. I have a Hormann/Garador 40mm insulated sectional door. It fits very nicely and they are not excessively priced. There isn't much difference between the different sectional doors from what I can see. They do offer a thermal kit to better seal the edges. I agree, integral/attached garage is way more convenient. Edited March 23, 2017 by AliG 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 Yeah I remember your post saying insulation was missing from parts of the door Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 5 minutes ago, AliG said: OK to answer your original question I find the worst point on my sectional door for tightness is the bottom seals. I can't see any light around the edges, but if rain drives into the door it can get underneath it. This is due partly to the threshold not being entirely smooth. I have purchased a rubber threshold seal for the door to seal down onto and stop this happening. It would also help airtightness. http://www.garagedoorseals.co.uk/c-garage_door_threshold_seal.htm You would want some kind of break under this. Even 20mm of PIR like they use around the edge of screed with UFH would be better than nothing at all. You could put this under the rubber seal and I think drive over it without worrying about the weight due to the small width. The rubber seal would span across it. I have a Hormann/Garador 40mm insulated sectional door. It first very nicely and they are not excessively priced. There isn't much difference between the different sectional doors from what I can see. They do offer a thermal kit to better seal the edges. I agree, integral/attached garage is way more convenient. Thanks for that link, I'll keep hold of it for the future. I've got an idea for thermal break leading on from Nicks suggestion. I'll try and do a sketch tomorrow and post it on here for opinions. I'm interested in the thermal kit for better seals cos I really wasn't impressed with the door seals in Hormann's dealer showroom..... Having an attached garage was so important to me as I hate having to put a coat on to go into my garage to do something - even more so when it's pouring down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 See page 12 of Hormann brochure for pic of thermal seals, £257 according to price list http://www.hormann.co.uk/fileadmin/_country/hoermann.uk/kataloge/86 912-Sectional Garage Doors.pdf I am well informed re garage doors this week as I have spent hours pouring over catalogues to try and find someone to make a door which matches the finish on my windows. Should have thought about it when I ordered the windows. It looks like we will have to buy a door then clad it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted March 24, 2017 Author Share Posted March 24, 2017 Checked with the SAP guys and my garage wasn't included in any calculations Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted March 24, 2017 Author Share Posted March 24, 2017 15 hours ago, AliG said: See page 12 of Hormann brochure for pic of thermal seals, £257 according to price list http://www.hormann.co.uk/fileadmin/_country/hoermann.uk/kataloge/86 912-Sectional Garage Doors.pdf I am well informed re garage doors this week as I have spent hours pouring over catalogues to try and find someone to make a door which matches the finish on my windows. Should have thought about it when I ordered the windows. It looks like we will have to buy a door then clad it. Cheers, I saw that in the brochure last night. It really bugs me that they sell a thermal door, but it's not efficient unless you order seals. What's the point of paying for a thermal door and not doing the seals - should be a complete package Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger440 Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 7 hours ago, Vijay said: Cheers, I saw that in the brochure last night. It really bugs me that they sell a thermal door, but it's not efficient unless you order seals. What's the point of paying for a thermal door and not doing the seals - should be a complete package To keep the price down on their expensive doors compared to the competition. 95% wont know or care, The other 5 % (you) do, so you will just pay. Once an established patter emerges in a market you have to advertise the same way or you will lose out. Ask me how i know (ok, car parts, but still.....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 I got an infra red camera for the iPhone a few weeks ago. Tried it out on my garage door this morning. The garage isn't heated but gets heat from the room above. Looks like the thing to avoid is windows in the door! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnethead Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 I'm pouring the rising walls this Friday thought it was about time to look into some threshold details, Does anyone have an issue with 'Structural EPS' ..Might be a similar block to what the Op mentioned. I hear passive slabs are made of this stuff, but calling EPS structural sounds weird to me, The spec gave 10% deformation at 302kPa which seems fairly good. Here's a detail for an insulated Door, I'm looking at mounting an insulated sectional door for the Integrated garage/workshop (Like above)....Would a detail like this be acceptable across a garage opening? Maybe pushing the block forward, so the Door lip can sit into a 1/2" channel (recommended by the door installer to handle water being blown in) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simplysimon Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 going back to your idea of marmox, it's a 7kn building material, i would imagine it should be durable enough as a threshold as the surface is quite tough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnethead Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 I was looking at this material from Kore, it's coming in at 302kPa which is the same as 302Kn/m2 .... They build houses on top of this stuff, so it might just hold at the threshold, I'm still thinking of a slightly different approach, with a flagstone coming up to the garage door (I'll try and draw it up) Here's the spec sheet for that material Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Although structural EPS can take a dead load I would be concerned that it would scrub away over time at the threshold, maybe you could put a hard cap on it, or use a narrower strip of PIR inside the door to create a break. Even an insulated garage door is pretty appalling versus a proper window or door. There will be so many cold bridges that I wouldn't worry about the threshold. Directly above this will be a thick rubber seal that provides virtually no insulation. I am not sure about a channel, wouldn't it just fill up with water. The key things to stop water being blown in are to have a flat surface for the door seal to press against. In my last house it was bumpy and water would come in at the low points and to have a run off on the threshold at the outside so that water running down the garage door runs away from the garage. My current house is constructed like this and we have no issues with water ingress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 On 23/03/2017 at 22:02, Vijay said: I've got an idea for thermal break leading on from Nicks suggestion. I'll try and do a sketch tomorrow and post it on here for opinions. A quick sketch of the idea I had from what Nick said. I thought of installing a painted/galvanised steel "T" into the ICF core. On the garage side, I have insulation to give the break between the outside and the screed. On the outside part, I have slots cut into the horizontal face which would allow drainage. The garage door comes down onto the middle of the horizontal face of the "T", so I can get a nice flat face for the the door seal to go on. Good or bad idea?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnethead Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 I was thinking the Cold bridge from the Garage skreed would be the worst, I'm loosing heat around the edges obviously...The insulated door company recommended leaving a small channel, 1/2 deep by 1 1/2 inch wide, just to catch any water that might be blown under it....Here's what i'm thinking...Can you see any problems The area with the stars is the structural EPS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnethead Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 How long do you reckon the galvanized steel would last @Vijay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 A fibreglass angle would last forever and would be less of a cold spot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Davies Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Stainless steel is also a lot less conductive [¹] that ordinary. [¹] Thermally and, by the way, electrically. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vijay Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 Magnethead, when I read leaving a small channel, my first thought was it would be somewhere for crap to sit and then not let the rubber seal work properly? No idea how long galvanised would last, thought it was pretty tough?? I'd imagine it would cost a fair bit so I'd be happy for another solution @Russell griffiths do you mean a fibreglass angle for me or magnethead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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