Self-build in Perth & Kinross - hello

[Kelvin]

Final price for the Envirograf CV30/8 is £11/m ex VAT delivered. We started at over £20 and once place quoted £30. 

[Kelvin]

Started decorating 😂 Put up some ply to hang all the plant room gubbins off. It was a bit rough to just leave so quick coat of paint. Will need another two I reckon. 

 

Edited July 6, 2023 by Kelvin

[Kelvin]

Big step forward this week. First fix electrics 90% complete. First fix plumbing mostly complete (well the pipes are all in. First fix MVHR mostly complete. I now need to go round repair some of the air tight barrier damage although it’s minor. 

[Kelvin]

Today’s problem. Getting the 35mm SWA cable through the duct. Got 4m and stuck. Borrowed a cobra. Got 4m and stuck. Started digging: 

 

[Thorfun]

3 minutes ago, Kelvin said:

Today’s problem. Getting the 35mm SWA cable through the duct. Got 4m and stuck. Borrowed a cobra. Got 4m and stuck. Started digging: 

 

that won't help!

 

also make sure you remove the preinstalled draw string that comes with the duct first! we forgot and it ended up getting bunched up in to a knot as we pulled cables through. caused us many issues.

[Kelvin]

Already had that problem with another duct! We managed to drag all of that out and pushed the cable through. 

Got the cobra through and a pull cord. I’m not convinced I’ll get this 35mm SWA cable through this! Certainly not on my own. 

 

Edited July 19, 2023 by Kelvin

[markc]

1 hour ago, Kelvin said:

Already had that problem with another duct! We managed to drag all of that out and pushed the cable through. 

Got the cobra through and a pull cord. I’m not convinced I’ll get this 35mm SWA cable through this! Certainly not on my own. 

 

A big cable needs pulling and pushing at the same time unless it’s through a large diameter duct, or the duct is straight … or you use a winch or tractor etc.

[Kelvin]

I think I’ll need a winch or a pulley 

[saveasteading]

9 minutes ago, Kelvin said:

think I’ll need a winch or a pulley 

Be careful. There is a lot of tension, and I don't think winches stop for safety like a torque wrench might.

It is too easy to keep pumping it. 

It might be as well to dig another pit now to release the snag point.

[Kelvin]

There’s three bends to get round just to get it to the kiosk and then another bend at the kiosk. The alternative is to bury it in the ground rather than go through the duct and only use the duct where it goes across the driveway. That’ll reduce the turns to two 

[Thorfun]

1 hour ago, markc said:

A big cable needs pulling and pushing at the same time unless it’s through a large diameter duct, or the duct is straight … or you use a winch or tractor etc.

my wife and I did our 3-phase cable. I pushed from one end while she was in the house pulling from the other. it was hard work as that stuff is bloody heavy!

[MikeSharp01]

1 hour ago, Kelvin said:

There’s three bends to get round just to get it to the kiosk and then another bend at the kiosk. The alternative is to bury it in the ground rather than go through the duct and only use the duct where it goes across the driveway. That’ll reduce the turns to two 

Are you using the correct lubrication makes it sooooo much easier, we used the yellow stuff (IDEAL YELLOW 77 WIRE & CABLE PULLING LUBRICANT) on our 30 meter pull/push dead easy even with some seious bends.

 

[Kelvin]

1 minute ago, MikeSharp01 said:

Are you using the correct lubrication makes it sooooo much easier, we used the yellow stuff (IDEAL YELLOW 77 WIRE & CABLE PULLING LUBRICANT) on our 30 meter pull/push dead easy even with some seious bends.

 

I have some of that waiting to see some action! Now I’ve fixed the duct problem I can get to the cable pulling which will be next week as off to see my son graduate from uni and then to Tiree for a wee holiday. 

[TonyT]

You need to tie it on so the end getting pulled in is as smooth as possible, plenty electrical tape.

 

cable socks are available nowadays to make cable pulling easier.

 

the string that was in the duct, is used to pull a rope in which in turn is used to pull cable in….

 

someone feeding the cable in and pulling at the same time to get the momentum going and it will go through.

 
 

[Kelvin]

On 19/07/2023 at 20:28, TonyT said:

You need to tie it on so the end getting pulled in is as smooth as possible, plenty electrical tape.

 

cable socks are available nowadays to make cable pulling easier.

 

the string that was in the duct, is used to pull a rope in which in turn is used to pull cable in….

 

someone feeding the cable in and pulling at the same time to get the momentum going and it will go through.

 
 

Cable finally in. Took 4 of us as it just didn’t want to come round the last turn! 

[Kelvin]

Started cladding. The thing I’ve looked forward to most. I’m glad I stuck to the deeper reveal for ingo. ‘Everyone’ was saying not to do it. 

The cladding has been treated to silver evenly and relatively quickly. 

 

[Jenki]

15 minutes ago, Kelvin said:

Started cladding. The thing I’ve looked forward to most. I’m glad I stuck to the deeper reveal for ingo. ‘Everyone’ was saying not to do it. 

The cladding has been treated to silver evenly and relatively quickly. 

 

I see you decided to keep the spacing and notch the bottom board. This is similar to our West elevation we have a single tall window in the center. But not at cladding stage yet.

Are you going to do the same on the other elevations? I was contemplating adjusting the spaces.

[Kelvin]

We debated that for an hour yesterday! We  mocked up both ways of doing it but prefer keeping the spacing. I’m not 100% on the cut edge though. 

[Dunc]

Looking great already!

Are you including any kind of insect screen at the top and bottom of the boards? If so, what and how?

[Kelvin]

50 minutes ago, Dunc said:

Looking great already!

Are you including any kind of insect screen at the top and bottom of the boards? If so, what and how?

150mm stainless steel mesh. It’s folded down from the underside of the roof and folded up from the outside of the kit at the bottom. I formed it using the standing seam roofers metal former thing to put an upstand on it. The boards then go over the top of it. 

Edited August 2, 2023 by Kelvin

[Dunc]

Sounds like a clever use of the roofers tool.

With board-on-board, isn't there still a gap behind the outer boards?

[Kelvin]

I did it like this at the top: 

 

 

And like this at the bottom 

 

[Kelvin]

I did use 300mm fibreglass stuff on one elevation because it was easier to use and get behind everything. 

[Jenki]

15 hours ago, Kelvin said:

We debated that for an hour yesterday! We  mocked up both ways of doing it but prefer keeping the spacing. I’m not 100% on the cut edge though. 

I think we'll do the same, the front elevation has a door and 3 windows so it will be a bit of messing to be sure we're happy. Looking good though👍

[Kelvin]

Exactly the same. A door and three windows on the North elevation. 
 

One challenge is the boards aren’t cut very straight. You can’t see it when on the wall looking at it straight on. But it’s very obvious on the table saw looking up the length of it 
 

Edited August 2, 2023 by Kelvin