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Ready made window cavity closers


Moonshine

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4 minutes ago, Oz07 said:

Yes not sure if it was that exact company but much better than fitting afterwards. Very cheap too compared to time measuring and cutting afterwards plus sacrificial cost of timber formers 

 

i would be interested to find out what other companies provide them.

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13 minutes ago, tonyshouse said:

Between the blockwork and the closer there are gaps, ditto in the corners, then outdoor sit bets through these gaps and behind linings, with wet plaster where the closer joking the blocks it cracks through the plaster 

Can you turn off autocorrect?

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20 minutes ago, Oz07 said:

@tonyshouse I used them and got 1.19 air test. Its all about the detailing. Lots of flexible sealants, tapes, foam available. 

At least the bottom corners of these are welded

 

Have you got your construction detailing you can share?

I am proposing to use and air tightness tap around windows when they are fitted

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Cavity closers built in, blockwork pargecoated inc reveals upto closers. Windows fitted, clearance caps left unfilled at fitting. Window board fitted foamed underneath with decent 10mm ish gap. Illbruck airtight foam. 10mm ish OSB board cut into strips roughly sized from back of window frame to face of blockwork. These all stuck to blockwork/lintel obviously spanning junction of cavity closer to blockwork. Illbruck airtight foam again. Fill window gaps in internally at this point also. Screw plasterboard onto osb job done. Wetting the OSB and blockwork/lintel seemed to help. 

It's a pain to set up but easy if long winded after. Window board goes on first to give you a level platform. A jig built to hold the head OSB while the foam gets it. After half a day than comes out and reveals cam be stuck on and held with friction or a couple of temp pins into head and window board. 

Good for blind fixing in head too. 

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3 minutes ago, Oz07 said:

Cavity closers built in, blockwork pargecoated inc reveals upto closers. Windows fitted, clearance caps left unfilled at fitting. Window board fitted foamed underneath with decent 10mm ish gap. Illbruck airtight foam. 10mm ish OSB board cut into strips roughly sized from back of window frame to face of blockwork. These all stuck to blockwork/lintel obviously spanning junction of cavity closer to blockwork. Illbruck airtight foam again. Fill window gaps in internally at this point also. Screw plasterboard onto osb job done. Wetting the OSB and blockwork/lintel seemed to help. 

It's a pain to set up but easy if long winded after. Window board goes on first to give you a level platform. A jig built to hold the head OSB while the foam gets it. After half a day than comes out and reveals cam be stuck on and held with friction or a couple of temp pins into head and window board. 

Good for blind fixing in head too. 

 

Sounds interesting, have you got any drawings / pictures?

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I lost my phone between end of first fix and plastering so lost a load. I have some pics but non which I think show that detail luckily had some with wires/pipes I'll see if any in background. 

No drawings I made it up on the hoof

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Found one which shows the bathroom window and a small window in another room. These don't have the jambs on yet as I went round doing all the heads first with the jig. Just do a window every few hrs 2 or 3 a day while doing other things. 

Resizer_16150244379260.jpg

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I was fitting a load of these yesterday -  cut to correct cavity size (they are scored to various widths) clean any snots off the brick and block and they fit nicely.  I am using epoxy to install followed by a few clout nails.

 

Finish with EPDM on top for airtightness.

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Another couple of thoughts with this sorry @tonyshouse Not having a go. 

1. My new vehicle is not a car it's a futuristic spaceship which levitates on air. It just uses some thin pieces of rubber to contain said air. 

2. Having double cavity width than someone else isn't a reason to criticise the method of construction. If you were limited on your external dimensions then the sums don't add up. My area doesn't have particularly high property prices but I can tell you if I doubled my cavity width to 300mm, then my place would be worth approx £375 less per linear metre of external wall per floor. Done the back of fat packet maths and it's going to take a lot of heating savings to pay back. 

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Thanks, no I love it, verging on a philosophical discussion!

 

The problem with economic calculations is that we would all live in cardboard boxes or shipping containers, government policy sets (or thinks it sets) minimum standards, yes my rooms are slightly smaller than they would have been without my wide cavity - a price I am prepared to carry in order to live without a boiler. 
 

Then the old chestnut of over what timescale should we do calculations? How long will a building last? 
 

all good fun. 

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