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Firewood processing


Crofter

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13 minutes ago, Crofter said:

Yes I'm aware of the dangers of keeping wood too close to the stove... it does make a huge difference though if you can get the moisture meter to read less than 10%. Suffice to say I would never leave it unattended.

 

The increased efficiency is remarkable... I have sometimes pondered some sort of Heath-Robinson contraption where you suspend a basket of wood above the stove, on a counterweight, and once the water has been baked out of the wood it would swing out of the way. Somehow I don't think I would get it past SWMBO...

I gave up burning wood because I couldn't get a reliable dried supply - it makes all the difference - and didn't have anywhere to store wood.  

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16 minutes ago, Crofter said:

Yes I'm aware of the dangers of keeping wood too close to the stove... it does make a huge difference though if you can get the moisture meter to read less than 10%.

 

That sounds very dry to me? There is such a thing as burning too hot... I once used some kiln dried logs at about 10% and they were too dry for me - a bit out of control.

 

I guess it depends on your stove, airflow, etc etc - but in general I stick to betwen 14% and 18% moisture in my logs.

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Interesting. I take it the downside of 'too hot' is that parts of the stove may warp or even burn through?

My understanding of the chemistry involved is that a hotter burn gasifies all of the volatiles and burns them off. A colder burn sends these energy rich compounds up the chimney, or leaves them as ash. Bad for efficiency, bad for your chimney.

 

The instructions with my newest stove say that it must not spend prolonged periods burning at under 400 degrees- the temperature at which creosote/tar will combust. They specifically do not reccomend overnight burning at a low heat, which is something that I would agree with, for any stove.

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Offcuts of kiln dried wood burn well on my stove, and small offcuts of OSB make great kindling to get the fire going.

 

On the subject of clean glass. It took me ages to work my stove out. It's a Dunsley Highlander 5 with an air wash system. But right from the start, no matter what I burned, the glass clouded up.

 

I eventually realised, during a power cut I think when the stove was the only heating for 3 days. It ONLY keeps it's glass clear running at full tilt.  As soon as you shut it down a bit (as we often do to avoid overheating) that's when the glass starts to soot up.
 

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Not really meant to burn anything with loads glue in it like plywood or worktop, I take it it's not solid oak worktop you are burning. MDF doesn't really burn due to the amount of glue and resins in it either unless the fire is at blast furnace setting. All the above glue is not good for your liner.

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4 hours ago, Declan52 said:

MDF doesn't really burn due to the amount of glue and resins in it either unless the fire is at blast furnace setting. All the above glue is not good for your liner.

 

It's not good for your or your neighbours lungs either!!

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