Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 (edited) 3 minutes ago, Onoff said: I see. You'll need to slip a bit of aquarium tube over your CT1 nozzle then sort of bend it up under the lip and pump. Or a bit of small bore copper pipe etc. If really unlucky you'll create a dam and make it worse! ? It’s a plan . That’s the problem though isn’t it . I can’t see what I’m doing . I could seal round the entire frame not just the front . Worried I could create a void that water runs into .... What about some form of deflection ? Like ‘gluing’ a lip to the base - making a ramp that runs away from the window ... Edited November 20, 2020 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 https://www.discountleisureproducts.co.uk/pond-supplies-c1/pond-pipe-and-fittings-c20/hose-fittings-c88/tefen-6mm-90-degree-bend-hose-elbow-plastic-barbed-flexi-pipe-fitting-p953/s1137?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=tefen-6mm-90-degree-bend-hose-elbow-plastic-barbed-flexi-pipe-fitting-6mmlbo&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads&cid=GBP&gclid=CjwKCAiA7939BRBMEiwA-hX5J96s4DS7ba6xJlJyk-B05HlTH-6Te3PbaoxUq6NdKcK8Y5vogA9luBoCW2kQAvD_BwE 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJNewton Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 I use PVC tubing to help apply sealant/foam to awkward places. Widely available on ebay for next-to-nothing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 3 minutes ago, Big Jimbo said: Basically you have a T shaped metal frame. At the top of the frame, Nearest the sky, you have got a bit of glass that is bonded to that frame. If that bonding has broken down then it could be leaking from there. If it is not. then any water that hits thats glass will run towards the outer edge of the glass, over the bonding material, and over the very top edge of the metal frame, and start to run down the outside vertical edge of the metal frame. When it gets to the bottom of the frame, it will try to turn 90 degrees onto the very bottom edge of the frame. This part of the frame should not be touching any of your roofing material, as this will allow the water to track across. (We dont want that).....If your sealed frame is not screwed through the sides of the metal frame, and into the sides of the upstands, then that is a good thing, as that is another area where the water could track across......If you glazed frame, and bonded glass, has simply been fixed with silicon or whatever, to just the top of your upstand, and not the sides that would be ok. If however any of that silicon has come down the insides of the frame before tou plonked it on, then this could be providing a bridge for the water to cross. You DO NOT want to be filling behind the gap between the inside of your side, vertical frame, and your upstand. Certainly not to the bottom, as this will just provide a nice bridge for the water to cross. You want a nice gap around the bottom of that frame, in order that the water has nowhere to cross, and gravity forces it to drip down onto your roof covering. Can you take it off, and re-silicon it on, using silicon or whatever only on the top of the upstand, and insuring that there is none going down the inside of the vertical frame ensuring that you are not providing a bridge ? Your upstands are way too short, but i guess you know that already mate. Yeah the short upstand - I had no choice . Getting the glass out easy . Getting the metal frame off ... erm , structural silicon around all 4 sides and screwed down . I can’t see it coming off without destroying the asphalt. It’s quite possible that as the frame was laid silicone could of squeezed out into the outer edge of the T frame underneath . If ‘filling’ the void is a bad idea and removal is not really a good plan that just leaves ... Deflection ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Jones Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 flashband the rooflight, then come the summer get some rubber on the roof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 3 minutes ago, Dave Jones said: flashband the rooflight, then come the summer get some rubber on the roof. problems not the roof . It’s the shallowness of the upstand and presumably a ‘gap’ in the silicone on the frame to upstand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jimbo Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 Glad you read my post fella. Don't fill that gap. Doing that is just a bodge, and in the long run will just cause you more problems. You defo do not want to be providing a bridge for the water. Just think about an old stone cill for a min. The water hits the window glass and runs down. When it gets to the cill, it runs along the top slope, gets to the front vertical face of the cill. Gets to the bottom, and turns back in to head towards the brickwork. What stops it reaching the brickwork is the little channel that is cut inti the bottom...... when the water hits that it can't travel any further towards your brickwork. It drips. If you fill that up, then you are providing a bridge for the water, that is now able to reach your brickwork, and make it seriously wet and damp. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jimbo Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 Basically, your upstands need to be much taller, and the sides of your frame need to have more of a gap to the sides of your upstand. You ain't got that, so now it's a bodge. You ain't got a choice. Bodge, Market, Flog, Leggit. Only kidding bud, but you can't sort it how it should be ........When you gotta bodge, you gotta bodge. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 1 minute ago, Big Jimbo said: Glad you read my post fella. Don't fill that gap. Doing that is just a bodge, and in the long run will just cause you more problems. You defo do not want to be providing a bridge for the water. Just think about an old stone cill for a min. The water hits the window glass and runs down. When it gets to the cill, it runs along the top slope, gets to the front vertical face of the cill. Gets to the bottom, and turns back in to head towards the brickwork. What stops it reaching the brickwork is the little channel that is cut inti the bottom...... when the water hits that it can't travel any further towards your brickwork. It drips. If you fill that up, then you are providing a bridge for the water, that is now able to reach your brickwork, and make it seriously wet and damp. Yeah . I read your post 3 times . I get your point and indeed water likes to travel where it shouldn’t. I can barely get a finger under that lip - but there is a gap . So I do think there’s a gap in the silicone under the frame - which of course is impossible to access . So wind pushing the surface water back at that corner is just enough to get it over the upstand and find the gap . Floor level ( when finished ) is level with the glass - so with stilted tiles all around it the problem could disappear. But I’d rather fix and know it’s done . Could just ‘stick’ polythene sheet to the frame at that edge . Not stuck to the asphalt- so water doesn’t get trapped . Not sure ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 Just now, Big Jimbo said: Basically, your upstands need to be much taller, and the sides of your frame need to have more of a gap to the sides of your upstand. You ain't got that, so now it's a bodge. You ain't got a choice. Bodge, Market, Flog, Leggit. Only kidding bud, but you can't sort it how it should be ........When you gotta bodge, you gotta bodge. Yeah I know . But what bodge should I do ...... ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 4 minutes ago, Big Jimbo said: Glad you read my post fella. Don't fill that gap. Doing that is just a bodge, and in the long run will just cause you more problems. You defo do not want to be providing a bridge for the water. Just think about an old stone cill for a min. The water hits the window glass and runs down. When it gets to the cill, it runs along the top slope, gets to the front vertical face of the cill. Gets to the bottom, and turns back in to head towards the brickwork. What stops it reaching the brickwork is the little channel that is cut inti the bottom...... when the water hits that it can't travel any further towards your brickwork. It drips. If you fill that up, then you are providing a bridge for the water, that is now able to reach your brickwork, and make it seriously wet and damp. Jimbo, not sure I agree, the roofing should run up that upstand so if you fill the gap between metal frame and vertical roofing felt it’s not a problem @pocster can you confirm if roofing felt does this?. Also there is no brickwork to absorb moisture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJNewton Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 2 minutes ago, pocster said: Yeah I know . But what bodge should I do ...... ???? I was thinking a skirt of some sort, even if just to mitigate the issues immediately and prove your theory about how the water is finding its way in. As you say, once the roofing is up to glazing level it sounds like there won't be a problem, but worthwhile proving that now if you can. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 @pocster is this drawing correct? Does the roof felt go up behind the metal frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 Demoing with cardboard. Perhaps some kind of collar ? . Maybe just stick some plastic beading to the corner of the frame - anything to deflect water way .... None of this would be visible once all complete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 9 minutes ago, joe90 said: Jimbo, not sure I agree, the roofing should run up that upstand so if you fill the gap between metal frame and vertical roofing felt it’s not a problem @pocster can you confirm if roofing felt does this?. Also there is no brickwork to absorb moisture. The felt runs up the upstand and over the top . Then it’s the silicone , then the frame . As I said I assume a gap in the silicone at this point . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jimbo Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 1 minute ago, joe90 said: Jimbo, not sure I agree, the roofing should run up that upstand so if you fill the gap between metal frame and vertical roofing felt it’s not a problem @pocster can you confirm if roofing felt does this?. Also there is no brickwork to absorb moisture. The roofing material should run all the way up the upstands, and over the top....... His fancy arsed walk on glazing should only be bonder to the top of the upstand,Not the sides. He should have a nice gap between the sides of his frame, and his upstands. This should not be filled with anything, just a nice gap. Any water running down the sides of his frame drips to roof, and any water bouncing off the roof up the sides of his upstands cant reach the top because the upstands are 150mmat there lowest point. Poor old Poc ain't got that, so he is going to have to try and seal his frame to the side of his upstand.....But that is a bodge. But he now aint got a choice. It a case of what does he fill it with.... What would your thoughts on something like Tigerseal be Joe ? Its held all the panels on my van together for the last 10 years, and i believe it stays slightly flexible...... I hate Silicon out doors Never lasts long term. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 Here you go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 (edited) 2 minutes ago, Big Jimbo said: I hate Silicon out doors Never lasts long term. Edited November 20, 2020 by joe90 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 2 minutes ago, Big Jimbo said: The roofing material should run all the way up the upstands, and over the top....... His fancy arsed walk on glazing should only be bonder to the top of the upstand,Not the sides. He should have a nice gap between the sides of his frame, and his upstands. This should not be filled with anything, just a nice gap. Any water running down the sides of his frame drips to roof, and any water bouncing off the roof up the sides of his upstands cant reach the top because the upstands are 150mmat there lowest point. Poor old Poc ain't got that, so he is going to have to try and seal his frame to the side of his upstand.....But that is a bodge. But he now aint got a choice. It a case of what does he fill it with.... What would your thoughts on something like Tigerseal be Joe ? Its held all the panels on my van together for the last 10 years, and i believe it stays slightly flexible...... I hate Silicon out doors Never lasts long term. Yeah . I ain’t got the height . Could just be silicone ( or whatever ) pushed up under that edge . Could smear it into a down ward curve I.e so it bonds back onto the asphalt....??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 (edited) I agree, so I don’t see the problem with sealing where I said as no brickwork to absorb water. Not come across tiger seal but I have used Screwfix roofing and gutter sealant and it’s good, turns to a black rubber flexible sealant. as the problem is rain “splash” (apparently) even some rubber tubing squeezed up there would stop it happening. Edited November 20, 2020 by joe90 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 9 minutes ago, joe90 said: @pocster is this drawing correct? Does the roof felt go up behind the metal frame? Yes . Felt over top of upstand also . I seem to recall concrete was deeper at the corner in question meaning of course up stand even shallower .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jimbo Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 17 minutes ago, pocster said: Yeah . I ain’t got the height . Could just be silicone ( or whatever ) pushed up under that edge . Could smear it into a down ward curve I.e so it bonds back onto the asphalt....??? Should sort it , but don't use silicon.... Find something better mate 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted November 20, 2020 Author Share Posted November 20, 2020 10 minutes ago, Big Jimbo said: Should sort it , but don't use silicon.... Find something better mate Ct1 ? It solves all the worlds problems . Or the stuff @joe90 mentioned . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 My vote is the gutter roofing sealant as it’s made fir “outdoor wet stuff” that deals with rainwater. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted November 20, 2020 Share Posted November 20, 2020 Just do it with properly bonded GRP (red lines) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now