JamesP Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 Can you advise as I am about to start cladding. I will have a 50 mm gap at the base of the vertical timber cladding and want to fix mesh to keep out rodents and insects as much as possible. Two options here but the Soffit mesh is a third of the price of the other. Any other alternatives you have used. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 Most 50mm wide stainless mesh will do. If the cladding laps down a bit you could have a bit wider. Fix to the batten with stainless staples. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperJohnG Posted September 20, 2021 Share Posted September 20, 2021 @JamesP what did you use here? just about to undertake this so any steer greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitpipe Posted September 21, 2021 Share Posted September 21, 2021 I used Ubliflex (lead substitute roof flashing roll) as a barrier and a dressing for the base of the frame to cover the insulation . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted September 21, 2021 Author Share Posted September 21, 2021 @SuperJohnG https://www.robinsonwirecloth.co.uk/online-shop/Soffit-mesh-stainless-steel-30m-roll-p49612077 Excellent product and SS staples. Spend some time getting the detail right. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperJohnG Posted September 22, 2021 Share Posted September 22, 2021 On 21/09/2021 at 10:40, JamesP said: @SuperJohnG https://www.robinsonwirecloth.co.uk/online-shop/Soffit-mesh-stainless-steel-30m-roll-p49612077 Excellent product and SS staples. Spend some time getting the detail right. Hi James did you take any pics? I'm possibly planning to just staple straight at the top edge of batten under eaves to stop anything getting in. My eaves are blanked off as its a SIPS kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eandg Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 On 22/09/2021 at 23:01, SuperJohnG said: Hi James did you take any pics? I'm possibly planning to just staple straight at the top edge of batten under eaves to stop anything getting in. My eaves are blanked off as its a SIPS kit. John, did you take any pictures? One of next jobs on the list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMo Posted January 20, 2023 Share Posted January 20, 2023 Sorry no photos You will have timber strapping on the wall. Prior to install of cladding, basically close the gaps at the bottom with mesh. So once the cladding is in place there are no gaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperJohnG Posted January 21, 2023 Share Posted January 21, 2023 I did but God knows I'll need to look through my pictures for them. I used the cedral mesh at the top. Great stuff. I bought the Robinson stuff, but didn't use much at all. Just used the cedral. If you're going to buy the Robinson stuff give me a shout as I'll probably get rid of mine (along with lots of other build stuff which I eventually plan on getting rid of. Lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eandg Posted February 3, 2023 Share Posted February 3, 2023 On 21/01/2023 at 00:28, SuperJohnG said: I did but God knows I'll need to look through my pictures for them. I used the cedral mesh at the top. Great stuff. I bought the Robinson stuff, but didn't use much at all. Just used the cedral. If you're going to buy the Robinson stuff give me a shout as I'll probably get rid of mine (along with lots of other build stuff which I eventually plan on getting rid of. Lol) Will let you know and maybe pop by for a nosy at the same time. Is it particularly inferior to the Cedral? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eandg Posted February 23, 2023 Share Posted February 23, 2023 On 20/01/2023 at 08:09, JohnMo said: Sorry no photos You will have timber strapping on the wall. Prior to install of cladding, basically close the gaps at the bottom with mesh. So once the cladding is in place there are no gaps. Is this (see 50 seconds on) the right way to do it? If so, needing 100mm wide roll for a 50mm cavity? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMo Posted February 23, 2023 Share Posted February 23, 2023 Pretty similar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eandg Posted February 23, 2023 Share Posted February 23, 2023 1 hour ago, JohnMo said: Pretty similar You did it pretty similarly to the guy in the video? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMo Posted February 23, 2023 Share Posted February 23, 2023 Not exactly the same, but pretty similar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eandg Posted March 2, 2023 Share Posted March 2, 2023 On 23/02/2023 at 15:11, JohnMo said: Pretty similar Did you just use the Robinson stuff at 100mm and bend it? Looking at Cedral and it's awful expensive in comparison. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnMo Posted March 2, 2023 Share Posted March 2, 2023 Mesh direct, by the roll. Scissors are fantastic also Category:Stainless Steel Soffit Mesh | Product Ordered: 10cm wide x 30m roll x4 Item No 304-SFLY100 Category: | Product Ordered: Heavy-duty Scissors for cutting fine mesh Item No FIN-225--PROMO 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglejim Posted Tuesday at 19:21 Share Posted Tuesday at 19:21 Just resurrecting this thread because I’m about to start cladding and have overlooked the mesh. I’m going for a mixture of horizontal and vertical timber cladding. Not sure where to go for the stainless mesh roll or cedral closure… also unsure about fitting despite watching the above video. Any advice and help greatly appreciated as will need to order tomorrow. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russdl Posted Tuesday at 19:34 Share Posted Tuesday at 19:34 We used stainless mesh and staples from a BM, but lots available on line. Just imagine you are a wasp 🐝 and do whatever it takes with what ever you have to ensure that when you have finished that wasp can’t get behind your cladding. Rest assured if you leave a gap a wasp and all its friends will find it. There is no right or wrong way because every build will be subtly different, just make sure there are no tiny gaps when you’re done. If you do buy the mesh wear gloves or be prepared to smear your blood all over the place. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglejim Posted Tuesday at 19:44 Share Posted Tuesday at 19:44 Thanks for the advice @Russdl yes that looks like the most versatile and cost effective but angled strips also look easier to install but I’m a bit confused shift the dimensions… they come in multiple of 10 but battens are 38mm or 25mm so seems like it’ll either overhang or leave a gap… I must be missing something. 🤷♂️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russdl Posted Tuesday at 19:51 Share Posted Tuesday at 19:51 Definitely don’t leave a gap and don’t leave anything that could become ‘gappy’ over time. Any gap, no matter how small will be exploited. I’m trying to remember exactly how I did ours. IIRC correctly I attached the mesh to the timber frame, then the battens and folded the mesh over the top of the battens and secured the mesh with a counter batten so, to cover a 25mm gap I needed probably 75mm of mesh. I’ll see if I can find one of my drawings which may make it clearer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russdl Posted Tuesday at 20:17 Share Posted Tuesday at 20:17 Here's a detail of the insect mesh under the window cill. Basically do what ever you can with whatever you've got to seal every possible hole that an insect may exploit. It's a labour of love. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglejim Posted Tuesday at 20:25 Share Posted Tuesday at 20:25 (edited) 7 minutes ago, Russdl said: Here's a detail of the insect mesh under the window cill. Basically do what ever you can with whatever you've got to seal every possible hole that an insect may exploit. It's a labour of love. Thank you that’s really helpful… hadn’t even thought about the cills yet … can see the advantage of the flexible mesh. Edited Tuesday at 20:25 by junglejim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russdl Posted Tuesday at 21:02 Share Posted Tuesday at 21:02 36 minutes ago, junglejim said: can see the advantage of the flexible mesh. Yep, if you’ve forgotten a bit and all else fails you can just scrunch it into a ball and stuff it in the gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglejim Posted Wednesday at 07:11 Share Posted Wednesday at 07:11 A combination of both might be good but still unsure about fixing the rigid angles given the dimensions… I saw somewhere else someone recommending the cedral mesh so any advice on fitting to ensure good closure would be useful. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglejim Posted Wednesday at 07:27 Share Posted Wednesday at 07:27 On 21/01/2023 at 00:28, SuperJohnG said: I did but God knows I'll need to look through my pictures for them. I used the cedral mesh at the top. Great stuff. I bought the Robinson stuff, but didn't use much at all. Just used the cedral. If you're going to buy the Robinson stuff give me a shout as I'll probably get rid of mine (along with lots of other build stuff which I eventually plan on getting rid of. Lol) @SuperJohnG just wondering you can advise on the cedral… I’m struggling to work out how the fixed dimension will close the gap accurately but probably missing something. For example they seem to come in multiples of 10 but if battens are 38mm or when double battening 38+25mm I’m not sure how this would work. Probably missing something obvious!? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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