Basic upvc frame job Q‘s.

[joe90]

6 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

J, can you tell me. Is Sticks Like Sh*t All weather stuff, suitable for fixing my frame... down onto my concrete?

Sorry Zoot never used it so can’t comment (but I am sure others will)

[craig]

Just do what you are doing but with a concrete screw that will bite into the brick/block - you won't need to use the type you are showing, just use https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-tx-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-100mm-100-pack/3839h

 

Alternatively, take the window out and apply brackets. You'll get several different types (i.e. ones that will twist into grooves on the frame and others you screw) BUT both need a screw fixed to the frame. Then fix every 150mm from the corners, you can put one in the middle vertically if you feel that it would benefit you.

 

Then jobs a good one.

[craig]

12 hours ago, zoothorn said:

I mean there's just screw heads visible, not a grey plastic collar bit showing under them. So.. how the bloomin feck was this done/ anyway I'll never know.

 

Concrete screw fixings generally.

[PeterW]

Frame fixing suggestion was mine as they are more tolerant to over sized holes and suspect brick/block types  

 

@zoothorn yes you can bed on the stixall stuff, frame fixings as @craig says 150mm up/down from corners and then carefully foam in the rest. If it isn’t in an exposed position then a decent bead of good quality silicone on the cill /frame joint will stop any water ingress too. Have you pushed the frame in from the inside up against the old render ..?

[zoothorn]

3 hours ago, PeterW said:

Frame fixing suggestion was mine as they are more tolerant to over sized holes and suspect brick/block types  

 

@zoothorn yes you can bed on the stixall stuff, frame fixings as @craig says 150mm up/down from corners and then carefully foam in the rest. If it isn’t in an exposed position then a decent bead of good quality silicone on the cill /frame joint will stop any water ingress too. Have you pushed the frame in from the inside up against the old render ..?

Hi Peter, always more confident proceeding with a PW reply!

 

Frame fixings fine/ good recommendation. Had a few teething issues, going thru block a few times/ spinning screw.. but got 8 in now. Can't go into lintel/ metal something here, & presumably best not go downward into my concrete, bc of water ingress?

 

If ok to crack on, could you remind me, my wedges.. (all sticky-outy: the reveal plaster I had to really dig into, leaving them going in at acute angles, rather than flat):

 

do I now remove them, or must I leave them as is & foam/ work around them later, after foam hardens around them?

 

Thanks, zoot 

 

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

@Onoff or @joe90 can you just lend advice:

 

my wedges, here all rather sticky-outy, & plastic ones too.. 

 

..do I foam onto them as is/ leave them be? Or do I remove them before foaming? (Frame fixings in, frame solid).
 

Thanks, zh

 

[PeterW]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

If ok to crack on, could you remind me, my wedges.. (all sticky-outy: the reveal plaster I had to really dig into, leaving them going in at acute angles, rather than flat):

 

do I now remove them, or must I leave them as is & foam/ work around them later, after foam hardens around them

Cut them off flush with an old/sharp chisel then foam in   

[Onoff]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

Hi Peter, always more confident proceeding with a PW reply!

 

No need for @Onoff or @joe90 to reply then! 😂

[zoothorn]

40 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Cut them off flush with an old/sharp chisel then foam in   

Old sharp chisel... have none! Hmm.. will have to cut off after then.

 

But main point being, they must remain in whilst foaming-?
 

Thanks, zh

[Onoff]

1 minute ago, zoothorn said:

Old sharp chisel... have none! Hmm.. will have to cut off after then.

 

But main point being, they must remain in whilst foaming-?
 

Thanks, zh

 

Multitool?

[zoothorn]

8 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

No need for @Onoff or @joe90 to reply then! 😂

Always need you to reply Onoff!  Dunno what I'd do otherwise!

 

Very grateful chaps-zh
 

 

[zoothorn]

4 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

Multitool?

 

Thanks, never been called that before.

[PeterW]

6 hours ago, zoothorn said:

 

But main point being, they must remain in whilst foaming

Yes - don’t remove them 

[Gus Potter]

3 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Thanks, never been called that before.

Hi Zoot.

 

Seems like you are going great.

 

Just had a look at the photo. Where are the drainage holes/ slots? ? Looks like you have a face drained window with no sub cill.. can you check, hopefully you are going to tell me I am blind or worse.

 

 

[Onoff]

1 hour ago, Gus Potter said:

Hi Zoot.

 

Seems like you are going great.

 

Just had a look at the photo. Where are the drainage holes/ slots? ? Looks like you have a face drained window with no sub cill.. can you check, hopefully you are going to tell me I am blind or worse.

 

 

 

It's face drained see the picture on page 4.

[Gus Potter]

29 minutes ago, Onoff said:

It's face drained see the picture on page 4.

I've had a look at page 4 of the posts, I think I should see some small cover plates on the vertical face on the outside of the window frame.. face drains. Page 4 at my end shows a bottom drained setup where the water runs out onto the sub cill and outwards.

 

Am I having a "senior moment"

[Onoff]

3 minutes ago, Gus Potter said:

I've had a look at page 4 of the posts, I think I should see some small cover plates on the vertical face on the outside of the window frame.. face drains. Page 4 at my end shows a bottom drained setup where the water runs out onto the sub cill and outwards.

 

Am I having a "senior moment"

 

The cover plates clip into the slots you can see? He must have them lying loose somewhere. 

 

@Tempput up typical pics on page 3. 

[Gus Potter]

Have had a look at page three.. oh happy memories

 

Temp shows a bottom drained set up.. I think. Hey ho!

 

Some may say.. "would you see it from a galloping horse?" I say.. get it wrong and you void the warranty on your sealed units and risk water ingress.

 

I don't have a horse BTW so am talking..

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Onoff]

8 hours ago, Gus Potter said:

Have had a look at page three.. oh happy memories

 

Temp shows a bottom drained set up.. I think. Hey ho!

 

Some may say.. "would you see it from a galloping horse?" I say.. get it wrong and you void the warranty on your sealed units and risk water ingress.

 

I don't have a horse BTW so am talking..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Erm no...

 

This is a face drained set up:

 

 

This is @zoothorn's window. The arrows point to the face drains, though my crap arrows are obscuring them maybe. Look at the original photo on page 4. It's face drained. 

 

[zoothorn]

17 hours ago, Gus Potter said:

Hi Zoot.

 

Seems like you are going great.

 

Just had a look at the photo. Where are the drainage holes/ slots? ? Looks like you have a face drained window with no sub cill.. can you check, hopefully you are going to tell me I am blind or worse.

 

 

Hi there Gus, thanks it is going great in fact. Yup as Onoff shows drain holes in outside front.

 

Cheers Zoothorn 

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

15 hours ago, Onoff said:

 

The cover plates clip into the slots you can see? He must have them lying loose somewhere. 

 

@Tempput up typical pics on page 3. 

Yup got them here. 

 

Good progress so far- foamed in, trimmed off foam & wood wedges ( placcy ones pulled out). 

 

I'm fine to crack on & complete this job.. apart from needing advice on the top. Here, above old frame,  was 15mm of plaster- I needed to hack this off. This leaves me a slatted metal lintel grate thing ( cavity above), & a strip of metal plastering "edging" stuff to work around.
 

Ive left myself 16mm H gap frame top to the black metal grate thing. I was thinking: snip off a good cm of the silver mesh edging stuff, cut a bit of plasterboard to fit, soudal plasterboard adhesive glue it up onto grate thing. Fill 3mm gap with foam. Then tidy up the front edge: fill pb gap to mesh with a bit of foam/ skim with a fine mix of something & grade it / tether it to the metal edge bead.

 

I don't have skills to re-plaster this area, so pb is my only way , I think. Then lastly fill the outside area above frame: anything just to weather- seal it, I guess.

 thNks, zh
 

 

 

[joe90]

Yes that’s a a “catnick  lintel “ the grating is to let plaster stick to it but a piece of plasterboard is just fine.

[zoothorn]

30 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Yes that’s a a “catnick  lintel “ the grating is to let plaster stick to it but a piece of plasterboard is just fine.

Hi J, good that's a plan then.

 

Beforehand, having got my frame fixed in solid, & outside silicone done on the sides & btm so it's effectively weatherproofed.. can I go ahead & install the glass I wonder?

 

The weather is sort of closing in, so I'd like to get it windproofed asap (bar the top gap/ can do this in time, as a useful outside overhang means no water will get to top of frame). 
 

Any tips? One person.. fairly tall window unit, so this could go pear shaped in a jiffy of course.

 

Thanks, Zoot 

[joe90]

Yes crack on and get the glass in. Have you fitted glass to a upvc window before?. Best to get the short pieces (top first then bottom) this stops the glass falling out , then the long side bits, bend them to get the ends in first then push the middle till they click in place.

[Onoff]

Indeed, as @joe90 says, short ones in first then the long. Ask me how I know? Especially on say a fanlight like this, there's just not enough flex in the short trim.

 

It was then I found how useful a sharp chisel is for removing trims!