Mechanical Timer Switch

[Calvinmiddle]

The mechanical timer switch on my new eat BAXI Duo boiler doesn't seem to be working, never tried to use it previously but I've tried to use it recently and it doesn't seem to turn.

 

I'm wondering if these things are generic or do I have to buy a BAXI one.

 

Also wondering if there is a way to fix it (take it out and give it a bang on the bench) and if this is a common problem

[Ferdinand]

Call an engineer under warranty ? 

[ProDave]

Post a picture and dimensions?
 

[Bitpipe]

Is it one of those ones with the tabs for each 15 min duration? We have had one fitted to control our floor level lighting in the hall, which comes on when the light levels drop (via PIR). However it's a bit under sensitive so we added a mechanical timer switch to only have it on at bedtime. Confused me initially as it has 3 settings, on, timed and off. Very easy to slide it past the timed setting to either on or off.

[ProDave]

Then it's almost certainly generic, but you will need to know if it has switched L output, or a volt free contact.

 

 

[Calvinmiddle]

This is the offending item, it's on the timer setting but just doesn't seems to turn.

Not sure it would be covered but the warranty as it was an extra to the boiler, and I bought it myself and got the plumber to fit so don't think I have any recourse with him, besides it was a couple of years ago now 

[Calvinmiddle]

4 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Then it's almost certainly generic, but you will need to know if it has switched L output, or a volt free contact.

 

 

Here is a pic of the wiring diagram

[Steptoe]

Is it actually plugged in at all,?

Believe it or not, sometimes people fit them but don't plug them into the loom.

[Steptoe]

9 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Then it's almost certainly generic, but you will need to know if it has switched L output, or a volt free contact.

 

 

They are generally volt free @ProDave

Ls - Lr

 

[ProDave]

This looks very similar except it does not have the on / off / timed switch http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GRASSLIN-ELECTRO-MECHANICAL-24-HR-TIME-SWITCH-02-76-0022-1-FM-1-QRTU-/322168095923?hash=item4b02b704b3:g:h78AAOSwnipWUYef

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

@Calvinmiddle

Did it work, and then stop working?

[Nickfromwales]

And can I talk you through taking the cover off and taking a pic of the back of the clock? 

Those grasslin clocks are just about as reliable as you can get, so I'd bet my arse it's wired ( arse ) backwards . 

So, with the power switched off..........

The pic you've taken of the clock shows a silver screw. It has a matching buddy the other side. Loosen and remove them and the panel will swing down. You'll see a square panel at the back of the clock which is the retention 'plate'. It'll have two smaller screws at two opposite corners.......remove those too. Remember how it comes off as its a pita to get back on . 

Once the screws have been removed from the plate lift it off. The clock is now free to move and certainly will. Take a pic of the wires as clearly as you can and post back. 

My money is on the number one common fack up, which is the 230v mains connected to the volt free contacts of the switch, and the switching pair on t'other ( motor feed ). Other than that it could be that they took the short cut ( avoided connecting it ) and left the factory 4-way moulded block in there ( which connects the switching pair together so the boiler will work for heating and hot water as normal, and isolates the mains feed also ). 

Go get your screwdriver. 

[Steptoe]

43 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

And can I talk you through taking the cover off and taking a pic of the back of the clock? 

Those grasslin clocks are just about as reliable as you can get, so I'd bet my arse it's wired ( arse ) backwards . 

So, with the power switched off..........

The pic you've taken of the clock shows a silver screw. It has a matching buddy the other side. Loosen and remove them and the panel will swing down. You'll see a square panel at the back of the clock which is the retention 'plate'. It'll have two smaller screws at two opposite corners.......remove those too. Remember how it comes off as its a pita to get back on . 

Once the screws have been removed from the plate lift it off. The clock is now free to move and certainly will. Take a pic of the wires as clearly as you can and post back. 

My money is on the number one common fack up, which is the 230v mains connected to the volt free contacts of the switch, and the switching pair on t'other ( motor feed ). Other than that it could be that they took the short cut ( avoided connecting it ) and left the factory 4-way moulded block in there ( which connects the switching pair together so the boiler will work for heating and hot water as normal, and isolates the mains feed also ). 

Go get your screwdriver. 

 

I'd agree,

and, if the clock is US you can buy a grasslin with the on/off/timer for about £15, just junk the case it comes in and screw it direct into your boiler, I've done that a few times, loads cheaper than the 'boiler' specific one,

 

[Nickfromwales]

11 minutes ago, Steptoe said:

 

I'd agree,

and, if the clock is US you can buy a grasslin with the on/off/timer for about £15, just junk the case it comes in and screw it direct into your boiler, I've done that a few times, loads cheaper than the 'boiler' specific one,

 

+1

[Calvinmiddle]

Here are the wires, looks OK to me as  agrees with the wiring diagram, brown on 1, blue on 2 and black to 3 & 4

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

5 minutes ago, Calvinmiddle said:

Here are the wires, looks OK to me as  agrees with the wiring diagram, brown on 1, blue on 2 and black to 3 & 4

 

 

Can you put a multimeter on 3&4 to check the switching action?

Also, I take it you've moved the slider on the clock face accordingly ( on / timed / constant ) ?

What exactly is the boiler doing / not doing?

[Nickfromwales]

Also, can you check that at least one of the black wires is live @230v ( with the boiler supply switched on ). 

 

[Calvinmiddle]

Don't have a multimeter, should have a screwdriver with a mains tester in it somewhere so can check the back wires when I find it.

 

when slider is on, boiler is on

when slider is off, boiler is off

when slider on timer it does whatever is selected on the little 15min increment things, but fail does turn, so just stays on that time forever.

 

should the dial be turning even when the slider is at the "on"?

[PeterW]

Yes it should turn when the boiler has power and when it's firing not firing..... put it very close to your ear and you should hear a buzzing sound as they use a standard motor with about half a dozen nylon gears that make a racket ..!!

[ProDave]

Use your mains tester screwdriver. Does it light up when touching the brown (terminal 1)? Does it light up when touching the blue (terminal 2)?
 

[Nickfromwales]

Looks like I'm minus an arse cheek. Sounds like the clock isn't turning ( Friday afternoon on the ars-sembly line )

Buy a new one and should be the end of it, but can you not take it back for a free replacement?

[Steptoe]

Or,

Try manually turning the  clock to an 'ON' position,

See if the boiler fires, 

But, deffo sounds like a dodgy clock.

[ProDave]

But he hasn't come back yet to confirm he actually has power on the motor terminals.
 

[Steptoe]

8 minutes ago, ProDave said:

But he hasn't come back yet to confirm he actually has power on the motor terminals.
 

Sorry, you are correct, this needs confirmed first. 

[Nickfromwales]

2 hours ago, ProDave said:

But he hasn't come back yet to confirm he actually has power on the motor terminals.
 

Agreed. My bad. ?