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Posted

I've done it but it stemmed from my ignorance really. I built in a length of brown soil in the wall from the wc instead of specific black/grey solvent weld. Imo the brown doesn't melt as well as the black/grey. The black grey also feels a bit more brittle.

 

Get both surfaces clean with IPA or similar. I roughed up the brown to get the shiny surface "glaze" off and give the solvent something to key to. 

 

2017-07-16_04-47-01

 

Tbh I had a few sleepless nights over it so backed it up with CT1.

 

Anyway, I used this instead of the standard brush on solvent as it was also a bit loose for my liking being two different makes.

 

https://plasticsuppliesdirect.co.uk/polypipe-gap-filling-cement-clear-140g.html

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Posted (edited)
57 minutes ago, Onoff said:

I think @pocster just used the same stuff too?

Bought it but never used it for some reason . Tiger seal seems to of done the job ; think @nod said to go that route . 

Edited by pocster
Posted

Cool, it’s ordered and on its way, I was probably worrying unnecessarily as it will never have water sitting in it, just whooshing past at 100mph. Would probably never leak even if I didn’t glue it at all. 

Posted (edited)

using tigerseal will be a good test on if you can remove nitrile glooves in a manner that would keep @Jeremy Harris happy if it was a virus and not black glue 

get it on your hands or anything its there for a long time if not permanently

It would be my go to adhesive for anything virtually 

stuck car body panels and  door skins  on

windscreens in with it and everything else you can imagine

repaired rubber engine mountings +exhaust bobbins

if its clean it will stick it 

if using on glass you need a primer first ,cos glass is so smooth 

it curesfully at about 3mm per 24hrs --so if its something you need a big thickness on,like a 10mm thick gasket (webber carb mtgs) --then you must give it time to fully cure -

Edited by scottishjohn
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