Soundbloc PB job.

[zoothorn]

My plasterer just called- doing ceilings wednesday.. so I won't be able to put a hatch in before.

 

The Q remains tho, is it feasable I could put one in later say next year?

[Roundtuit]

Yes.

[zoothorn]

4 hours ago, Roundtuit said:

Yes.

 

Ok great I'll do that.

[zoothorn]

Here is a pic of the joists I'd need to refettle to put a hatch in.. as you can see they're widely spaced, & very thin joists too.

[zoothorn]

My last pB area I need advice on.. & I've been dreading. The knock-thru area: lower areas of new block, & above cls stud & kingspan/ ropey offcuts all patchworked together it seems.

 

The thing that stumps me, is that a door is obviously needed, & it can't go (as always was the idea) on the far side of the knock-thru, at the very entrance of the new room.. because of the ceiling step-down slope having the most irritating extra 4"x3" sloping section -top RHS in photo- c*cking this door position idea up (due to -& the last in a massive list of ongoing issues- this hateful "anomally" of the whole damn build being 1 ft lower than it should be).

 

So what can I do with this area, & how (& where) do I add a door? Thankfully its my last hurdle of the build (& this wretched issue).

 

Thanks- zoot.

 

 

 

[Mr Punter]

Looks like the door will need to open inwards.  You could have a bifold style if you need to save room and it will be open most of the time.

 

 

[Gone West]

Have you considered a sliding door which I guess could be fitted in either room given enough space.

[Onoff]

Arched door? You could make that and the frame I'm sure.

[zoothorn]

4 hours ago, Mr Punter said:

Looks like the door will need to open inwards.  You could have a bifold style if you need to save room and it will be open most of the time.

 

 

 

Hi Mr.P.

 

The idea was always having the door opening inwards, into the new room, & hinged @ this edge visible in the photo.

 

This would be fine & straightforward, if it wasn't for a pesky small triangle of ceiling (only 3x4 inches) nipping into the door area. Its not too visible in the photo (I'll attempt another, this pic is from 7 months ago).. but if you can see the two courses of brick, on my knock thru side area here, just onwards from the cls rectangle above the block.. ther's a vertical slim piece of kingspan I put in the brick cavity.. follow this kingspan up & it hits this wee triangle of ceiling.

 

I can't have the door opening inwards from the visible edge/ hingepoint -without- the door being made 3" short in height, needed for it to open into the room properly, bc of this pesky ceiling shape. If it opened inwards from opposite side of the knock-thru.. fine.. the door top RHS just has a corner nipped off: but its not ideal having door open from this side.

[zoothorn]

1 hour ago, PeterStarck said:

Have you considered a sliding door which I guess could be fitted in either room given enough space.

 

Hi Peter- did think of it, but not very cottagey/ would need to go behind bed (not ideal) & would be an oddity to the other doors.

 

I want to follow the other 2 bed doors being a simple t&g pine, braced-back door, with a black typical cottage thumb latch-open thing.

[zoothorn]

37 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Arched door? You could make that and the frame I'm sure.

 

 Interesting idea. I guess the idea being it negates the top RHS by having a frame arch bit here.

 

But its alot of work, for me: just a simple frame & door was going to be a big challenge for me.. never having done one before.

[Mr Punter]

I meant opening inwards in the photo you posted - in to the existing room.  Assuming you have some steps going down into the new bit, I don't know how it would work having a door opening that way.

[Onoff]

7 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

 Interesting idea. I guess the idea being it negates the top RHS by having a frame arch bit here.

 

But its alot of work, for me: just a simple frame & door was going to be a big challenge for me.. never having done one before.

 

Think about it, there's a precedent here...

 

You can ask shed load of questions & the end result will look really good. 

 

 

[zoothorn]

24 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

I meant opening inwards in the photo you posted - in to the existing room.  Assuming you have some steps going down into the new bit, I don't know how it would work having a door opening that way.

 

Ok now I understand Mr.P. No need for a bifold if opening twds camera, I have enough room in here (master bed at the mo).

 

This I think is the most sensible place considering this pesky ceiling bit means alot of door faff to have it here.. tho the place I wanted it.  

 

So the hinge point visible in the photo here (so the RHS, near the blue curtain). The problem here tho, is the structure of the wall compared to either if the door opened inwards to the new room (where I wanted it to be) where I have solid brick/ block (as visible) RHS.. & solid block/ old wall LHS.

 

The structure here RHS (nr blue curtain) is wobbly cls bits all patched together (below is block/ ok here). I just don't know how I could get a vertical frame solidly in here, esp all the door weight hanging from it. Redoing it surely means ripping out the master bedroom plasterboard all around > redoing the woodwork > redoing the pB.. I just can't face that prospect.

Edited June 29, 2020 by zoothorn

[Mr Punter]

It looks like the lining will go in there fine.  Some decent screws and foam and it won't budge.  You could even have a deeper lining if you want.  That way you can get a few more fixings in.

[zoothorn]

16 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Think about it, there's a precedent here...

 

You can ask shed load of questions & the end result will look really good. 

 

 

 

I could indeed.. & its nothing imminently 'needed' being 1 here.. so I could take my time.

 

But, Ive just had a look & considered an arch.. & alas I don't think its viable due to the restricted H within the knock-thru (yet -another- issue due to the wretched 1ft all-build-too-low problem). My head is 1" from the pB here where the slope down ceiling bit starts, within the knock-thru 'tunnel'. Where the door would be (2 short steps onwards) I'm only -just- getting my head under any standard door frame inserted here.

 

At the mo I'm at 6's & 7's knowing what to do, what scope I have to do what design.. & where.

 

The problem remains tho, I think, with an arched door if opening inwards to the new room, of its top hitting the 'collared' ceiling area within the room & therefore only opening mostly, not fully: you can see the area I refer to: above the stacked pB bits.. this sloped ceiling section 4m long. Its both this -and- the pesky ceiling triangle causing problems with any door opening into the new room.. simply where you'd expect one to be.

[zoothorn]

6 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

It looks like the lining will go in there fine.  Some decent screws and foam and it won't budge.  You could even have a deeper lining if you want.  That way you can get a few more fixings in.

 

But its what the lining will screw onto. As you can see, it looks half-decent timber stud etc but its not: here its wobbly cls offcuts, badly inserted, a patched together rush-job I cannot see how to sure-up without taking out the old pB (like Ive had to redo prolly 50x pB screws in the ceiling my builder's two lads very badly did in a few hrs I was charged £500 +vat for).

[PeterW]

6 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Here is a pic of the joists I'd need to refettle to put a hatch in.. as you can see they're widely spaced, & very thin joists too.

 

 

@zoothorn what is the height from the top of the last step to the bottom of the rafter/lintel..?

[zoothorn]

@PeterW from the last step (the one you see most of/ nearest to the new room) it'll be 2090mm. IE with pB on, as it is now = 2080mm.

[PeterW]

2 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

@PeterW from the last step (the one you see most of/ nearest to the new room) it'll be 2090mm. IE with pB on, as it is now = 2080mm.

so you have 40mm to play with minimum - standard door is 1981x762, I’ve seen some this weekend at 1950mm so that gives you 130mm to play with. 

[Onoff]

Just saw the corner off the door. Glue that bit in permanently.

[zoothorn]

1 minute ago, PeterW said:

so you have 40mm to play with minimum - standard door is 1981x762, I’ve seen some this weekend at 1950mm so that gives you 130mm to play with. 

 

But that doesn't include the frame tho does it? surely this is 40mm which needs to be set in place 'lining' the area above my head.

 

I think the last joist is just a bit lower -iirc- than the lintel. I guess its this joist I have to attatch/ line the frame with, rather than onto a BFO solid concrete lintel.

[zoothorn]

5 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Just saw the corner off the door. Glue that bit in permanently.

 

Ive thought of this idea 1st up.. but it won't work.. hence my asking about it.

 

If I just saw cnr off, it still wont open correctly/ the full H (almost all of) the door will hit the big sloping ceiling area. Sawing cnr off will only mean it can open mostly.. but still cannot fully. Its a pickle of angles & head-scratching this exact ceiling bit. Hence my Q's.

[PeterW]

1 minute ago, zoothorn said:

 

But that doesn't include the frame tho does it? surely this is 40mm which needs to be set in place 'lining' the area above my head.

 

I think the last joist is just a bit lower -iirc- than the lintel. I guess its this joist I have to attatch/ line the frame with, rather than onto a BFO solid concrete lintel.

Yes that is why I said that you had 40mm to play with. 
 

Standard door lining is 30mm, 10mm floor clearance and a 1982mm door adds up to 2022mm so that gives you 55mm gap you can drop the door frame and still fit a standard door

 

Have you got the lining...?? 
 

 

[PeterW]

1 minute ago, zoothorn said:

 

Ive thought of this idea 1st up.. but it won't work.. hence my asking about it.

 

If I just saw cnr off, it still wont open correctly/ the full H (almost all of) the door will hit the big sloping ceiling area. Sawing cnr off will only mean it can open mostly.. but still cannot fully. Its a pickle of angles & head-scratching this exact ceiling bit. Hence my Q's.

Don’t cut the corner off it will look shite

 

Just get the door and you will see it’s not as tall as you think.