Soundbloc PB job.

[PeterW]

@zoothorn can you measure from the top of the step to about where this red line is ..??

 

Do you have the door ..?

 

Do you have the frame/lining  ..?

 

[zoothorn]

1 minute ago, PeterW said:

Yes that is why I said that you had 40mm to play with. 
 

Standard door lining is 30mm, 10mm floor clearance and a 1982mm door adds up to 2022mm so that gives you 55mm gap you can drop the door frame and still fit a standard door

 

Have you got the lining...?? 
 

 

 

If that means the frame.. no no. I'm way off even deciding upon where a door goes, let alone -if- it can open without being hampered.

 

Your idea only works, if a door can open. At the mo I'm picturing how/ if it can, nipping a bit off the cnr, & I just don't think it can at all now: the sloping area inside the room (4m long x 500mm) will surely prevent any door of full H, to open, even an arched shape will be severly hampered so much so even this isn't feasable.. I think.

[PeterW]

Please .... Stop over thinking a problem that doesn’t exist and measure to where I asked. 

Thanks..! 

 

(my estimate is about 1965mm assuming they are imperial bricks btw...)

 

 

[zoothorn]

@PeterW ok measured to your red line (understanding why). 1990mm. No door or frame (Im WAY off/ haven't even rendered or pB'd knock thru yet let alone know where the door can feasably go).

 

The steps down you see, at the moment are 2x huge ones 9" each.. I was hoping to make into 3x by adding a new one within the room & adding 60mm onto the one you can see most of/ one I'm measuring up to the red line from.

 

These steps are so big as to be uncomfortable you see.. 3 would be great, & an easy addition timber job to sort, I'd hope. But it adds a big sod into any door equation going on this entry place.

[PeterW]

9” isn’t that much for a step ..? It’s 20mm higher than my developer box house stairs. You will soon get used to them - I wouldn’t alter them at all and expect the BCO has signed them off as that. 

[ProDave]

Devils advocate.

 

Putting a door <2000mm on the bottom step would make the stairs non compliant. (need 20000mm headroom)

 

Why not put the door at the top of the flight of steps?

[PeterW]

2 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Devils advocate.

 

Putting a door <2000mm on the bottom step would make the stairs non compliant. (need 20000mm headroom)

 

Why not put the door at the top of the flight of steps?

Not necessarily if it is part of a conversion and contains a sloping ceiling - can be 1900mm as long as it in the centre (English regs). 
 

Just text my BCO to see what constitutes a staircase though as it think it’s more than 2 steps but need to check.   

[Mr Punter]

Are we seriously thinking that having a door butting onto the steps is OK in any way?  Surely top of steps opening out would be better.  If the door is not a building control requirement you can do what you like.

 

At least with the steps you seem to have lots of going.  You may be able to take a bit off the front of the bottom step so a new additional step would not protrude into the room so much.

[zoothorn]

13 hours ago, ProDave said:

Devils advocate.

 

Putting a door <2000mm on the bottom step would make the stairs non compliant. (need 20000mm headroom)

 

Why not put the door at the top of the flight of steps?

 

Ok will wait for clarification on this BRegs point.

 

Yes it would make more sense to put it top of stairs.. but I'm concerned about the structure of the corner here RHS to hang a door from. If I can establish what I have is ok, or, how I can sure it up (without ripping out old 80's pB, you can see in pic pg4, around the frame area > to redo timber xyz > redo the pB).. then its sensible to have the door here I agree.

 

I had wanted 2 doors in fact, either end of the 2 steps (for a bit of extra privacy, should I have guests in next bedroom).. but for now just the one: so if I do the sensible one 1st, then the tricky height one -if- I want to once signed off/ next year or so.

 

Thanks- zoot.

[zoothorn]

14 hours ago, PeterW said:

9” isn’t that much for a step ..? It’s 20mm higher than my developer box house stairs. You will soon get used to them - I wouldn’t alter them at all and expect the BCO has signed them off as that. 

 

It does make alot of ease actually even plonking down a bit of scaffold on this lower 2nd step, then 2x bits of cls on the room floor as a '3rd step'.. as I have temporarily.

 

So maybe just 40mm step addition is all needed on this 2nd step. If I put the door @ top of stairs 1st > get signed off > then put in a 2nd door later.. I don't need to worry about BRegs specific heights/ I can squeeze a few cms perhaps, & put my extra bit on the steps.

 

Right- so if I concentrate on door placed @ top of stairs for now I think Peter. But ideas/ info useful to come back to.

 

cheers zH

[PeterW]

But steps have to be designed properly - all the same height and length !!! you can't have them different heights or they do fail the regs.

 

Door at the top sounds a better approach

[zoothorn]

On 30/06/2020 at 11:47, PeterW said:

But steps have to be designed properly - all the same height and length !!! you can't have them different heights or they do fail the regs.

 

Door at the top sounds a better approach

 

Hi Peter- ok understood.. so, I'll add my step additions after its signed off. Now its been skimmed (looking great) I'm even lower still.. or rather as I'm stepping off onto the lower step, my head is cm's from the ceiling here: its a total 2cm fluke I'm not hitting my head tbh.

 

Yet another issue with this 1ft anomally problem: every damn thing is affected, at every turn/ continuously. But I have to lump it.. but by god it inflames me. Ideally the top step's drop point needs nipping back a good 4".. but me to do, or get s'one in to refashion it I just can't deal with.

 

Ok I need to forget this step/ height issue for now (or I get angry.. again) & concentrate on getting a frame in the easier (?)/ more sensible top area. Plasterer said I -can- add a frame top section over his skimmed last bit/ a 4" wide, flat pB strip where the top part of doorframe likely to be.

[zoothorn]

I need advice on the knock-thru walls, how/ what to do here. The last main job of the build for me.

 

Firstly, as the door is to go @ the top of steps now (so next to the crix bat).. is the idea to address (plasterboard?) these sides -before- the door frame's set in? I have a new soudal plasterboard adhesive can in case needed.

 

The light switch is on the LH wall (just backbox/ wires in at this stage). The ceiling above is now skimmed too.

 

Thanks- zoot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 3, 2020 by zoothorn

[zoothorn]

@PeterW or @Onoff or anyone who can lend a hand..

 

My spark's coming tmrw to do 2nd fix, one thing being the light switch set in the knock-thru wall (LH wall in above pics).

So, just dawned on me I need to get this side pB'd before.. if indeed pB is the right idea for these two 'tunnel' walls.

 

So 1st I need to establish if pB'ing these two side walls is the right approach. At the mo I'm stuck not knowing how to cover/ finish these walls.

 

Also the door frame: is it correct to put this in 1st (assuming I have ok structure to attatch it to.. another Q) & then if pB is the right way to go, to pB the knock-thru side wall up to the frame? or should I pB the side wall > put the frame in over pB? I surely lose 3/4" of door width doing it this way (pB + adhesive = 3/4" min) tho.

 

thanks- zoot

Edited July 4, 2020 by zoothorn

[PeterW]

@zoothorn just cut a piece of PB to fit the wall - use the foam to bond it to brick/block and then use screws on the timber frame. 
 

Just poke a hole where the switch needs to go. 

[PeterW]

5 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

pB + adhesive = 3/4" min

Which adhesive ..??!!

 

The spray foam stuff you put on in 1” beads and then leave it for 5 mins to go off and then squash flat and it sticks. 

[zoothorn]

3 minutes ago, PeterW said:

@zoothorn just cut a piece of PB to fit the wall - use the foam to bond it to brick/block and then use screws on the timber frame. 
 

Just poke a hole where the switch needs to go. 

 

(Soudal Plasterboard Adhesive, dedicated stuff: got a new can/ so not using my 1/2 can of the soudal LE foam for this.. one thing it doesn't tell me tho is the thickness to aim for, or what you squash the pB onto a wall, the foam making a gap of: *25mm maybe? 5mm?)

 

Hi Peter. I get the idea suggested, just a little trickier surely: if foam needed to bond pB to the block area, & you factor in a *gap.. then screwing the pB into the timber area above will break it. So I either have to spread a very thin 3mm or so adhesive layer (or, squash the pB on very hard -I don't know how it behaves/ if this possible) in order to then screw into the timber area above.. without there being a step, to mitigate a crushing of the pB.

[PeterW]

There is no gap

 

It basically squashes to about 1mm if you push hard, or stays at 5-10mm if you don’t. 
 

Just use the foam ... have you got a squirty bottle as it will foam better if the wall is damp. Just use clean water. 

[zoothorn]

11 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Which adhesive ..??!!

 

The spray foam stuff you put on in 1” beads and then leave it for 5 mins to go off and then squash flat and it sticks. 

 

You mean the dedicated Soudal Pladterboard Adhesive, red/ yellow can? (this is what I have).

 

Sio the idea is you squash the foam flat.. so effectively you're aiming to minimise the adhesive 'gap'?

 

If this is the right way to use it (I don't know.. it doesn't tell me the thickness the product introduce) then I guess I can screw into area above without concern the pB will break.

[zoothorn]

2 minutes ago, PeterW said:

There is no gap

 

It basically squashes to about 1mm if you push hard, or stays at 5-10mm if you don’t. 
 

Just use the foam ... have you got a squirty bottle as it will foam better if the wall is damp. Just use clean water. 

 

Aha 1mm? that's great then. Not gonna be an easy job squashing flat.. but got pB aplenty if I c*ck up. Shaping the damn section tricky.. so I'd prefer to get right 1st time.

 

The soudal clip (toolstn £7.14 btw/ s'fix £10) just gives me impression the foam = a good 2cm gap you see.

[zoothorn]

@PeterW so the idea is to pB these 2 knock-thru side walls.. & door frame goes in over the pB/ am I doing this area the right way round pB'ing 1st > frame 2nd?

 

If so I'd have thought tho this means I lose 30mm of door W (foamed pB = 15mm let's say).. &.. I can't see where timbers are to fix frame onto.

 

 

[PeterW]

You have photos to find the timber if you needed to and to be honest you just drill and plug it and be done with it. 
 

The foam is very good - easier if you lay the board flat or sloping and just put beads of it down the boards. Wait 5 mins and lift into place, press against the blockwork and brace for 10 mins and that’s it. 
 

 

[zoothorn]

@PeterW yes saw this clip on the toolstation foam can page.. thx. What do you mean by drill it & plug it (it being-?).

 

Does this adhesive expand like LE stuff? reason I ask is I have 2 areas above the block, on my LH wall side (with the switch on): the timber/ insulation area I screw into, but next to it is a brick/ render area which is set a good 1.5" deeper. The block & timber areas are flush.,

 

I'm wondering if I just foam back of the pB, in this top R area, say 3x as thick.. & just hope the adhesive expands forming a join between the two surfaces. Or.. do I LE foam over the deeper area prior to boarding, wait till gone off, & cut it off flush with the block & timber areas.

 

 

[Onoff]

3 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

Or.. do I LE foam over the deeper area prior to boarding, wait till gone off, & cut it off flush with the block & timber areas.

 

 

You could do that.

[PeterW]

3 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Does this adhesive expand like LE stuff? reason I ask is I have 2 areas above the block, on my LH wall side (with the switch on): the timber/ insulation area I screw into, but next to it is a brick/ render area which is set a good 1.5" deeper. The block & timber areas are flush.,

Seriously stop worrying about it, foam the back of the boards and get them fitted. If any of it feels hollow or flexes when it’s dried, drill a 10mm hole in the board, shove the nozzle through the hole and squeaker some more foam in.