daiking Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Took radiator off the wall for it to be repaired and re-plastered. The dot and dab plaster is thicker than before. The radiator plumbing connections should be 45-50mm from the wall but the tails sticking out the floor are only 30mm from the wall. Short of calling a plumber, is there any trick other than chasing the brackets into the wall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 Pix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 Will rotating the brackets take you from the deepest depth to the narrowest depth ? The brackets are usually an offset L so laying them one way makes the radiator project less . Pipes should take a bit of 'gentle tugging' if the bracket will get you half way there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 (edited) One way is to replace the last few inches of your copper pipe with a flexible 300mm connector which has a push fit on one end and a connector to fit your rad on the other. I have done this, but have seen recommendations against due to them not being designed for constant hot water flow. But otoh most people on here run their CH at a low temperature and do not use it very often. @Nickfromwales? Ferdinand Edited December 5, 2016 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 26 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Will rotating the brackets take you from the deepest depth to the narrowest depth ? The brackets are usually an offset L so laying them one way makes the radiator project less . Pipes should take a bit of 'gentle tugging' if the bracket will get you half way there. No, that is on the short side and not 15mm of flex in those connections and the TRV tail is up against the joist any way. 16 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: One way is to replace the last few inches of your copper pipe with a flexible 300mm connector which has a push fit on one end and a connector to fit your rad on the other. I have done this, but have seen recommendations against due to them not being designed for constant hot water flow. But otoh most people on here run their CH at a low temperature and do not use it very often. @Nickfromwales? Ferdinand This is a normal house so the heating runs at 60+ degrees and I Don't really want to touch the plumbing unless I can help it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted December 5, 2016 Share Posted December 5, 2016 just thinking out loud here but could you not just bend the pipe a bit? http://gasproducts.co.uk/10mm-internal-pipe-bending-spring.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAvZTCBRDvnoOaoa2j3xISJABxPjN92gZveo3tuOI4Mh9Ffq9-XEXf-dcLVdGFpv67UaiEFRoCSznw_wcB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted December 5, 2016 Author Share Posted December 5, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, Construction Channel said: just thinking out loud here but could you not just bend the pipe a bit? http://gasproducts.co.uk/10mm-internal-pipe-bending-spring.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAvZTCBRDvnoOaoa2j3xISJABxPjN92gZveo3tuOI4Mh9Ffq9-XEXf-dcLVdGFpv67UaiEFRoCSznw_wcB You could but I'd need a plumber for that and there's not much of a lever to bend that 15mm tail. Likewise I don't want anyone to be lifting the (new) floor to meddle with any piping. Edited December 5, 2016 by daiking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 Sounds like a plumbing job me old China ? You could recess the brackets but it's not cricket ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 58 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Sounds like a plumbing job me old China ? You could recess the brackets but it's not cricket ? Well that ain't happening, for about a million reasons. I'll have to chase the new plaster back to brick and pack out to the correct depth with some wood. Add it to the ever increasing snagging list and never do anything about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamiehamy Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 Is putting an 'S' in the visible part pipe moving the valve out from the wall but lowering the radiator slightly not an option? I'm assuming from needing a plumbe that the system is pressurised now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 (edited) 44 minutes ago, jamiehamy said: Is putting an 'S' in the visible part pipe moving the valve out from the wall but lowering the radiator slightly not an option? I'm assuming from needing a plumbe that the system is pressurised now? Yes - its not a new install, the radiator had to be unplumbed and taken off the wall so that it could be re-built and re-plastered. As shown here The heating is in operation for the rest of the house. It wouldn't even need an 'S'. you could just angle it away from the wall. But as above its 15mm pipe, there's very little length there to use as a lever (and I be worried about stressing the elbows) and I don't want to take the valves off myself. Edited December 6, 2016 by daiking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 Weren't those valves removed anyway to do the plastering then refitted? Just trying to figure how they'll screw into the rad without taking them off. Was wondering if you could spin those valves 90deg then put elbows on: http://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/store/category/1638/product/pg-044.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 3 hours ago, Onoff said: Weren't those valves removed anyway to do the plastering then refitted? Just trying to figure how they'll screw into the rad without taking them off. Was wondering if you could spin those valves 90deg then put elbows on: http://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/store/category/1638/product/pg-044.aspx Why would I take the valves off? There would be water everywhere ?. They go straight in the bottom of the rad. anyway, surprised you haven't said ditch the boring radiator and make something out of copper pipe and elbows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 TBH I don't think those valve cappings are providing anything other than muck protection. The valve will have a flat surface under that cover that butts onto a stem on the rad so unlikely you can add an elbow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 11 minutes ago, PeterW said: TBH I don't think those valve cappings are providing anything other than muck protection. The valve will have a flat surface under that cover that butts onto a stem on the rad so unlikely you can add an elbow. Yes, I put the brass caps on to stop muck getting in there. And prevent the minuscule risk the trv would open of its own accord even when set Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 1 hour ago, daiking said: I was envisaging loosening and turning not removing. Chromed pipe and compression joints would look better! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 1 hour ago, Onoff said: I was envisaging loosening and turning not removing. Chromed pipe and compression joints would look better! I'm just going to **** it (the brackets) with a big hammer until it all fits 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 (edited) I don't know how but I've found whatever clearance was needed. Although first time I forgot to fit the skirting and the second time I forgot the skirting grab adhesive... It's so tight I've had to put an ad hoc V-groove in the 15mm thick skirting to clear the pipe. Obviously I've made the connections loosely but not tightened them or opened the valves. The boiler will have a fit and need bleeding and filling and all sorts. A job for a less cold night. Edited December 6, 2016 by daiking 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 You could multi-tool the slot in the floor board with the TRV a bit longer to give a bit more "give". The other valve looks like you'll get the 5 to 10mm with a bit of gentle flexing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 On 5 December 2016 at 22:18, Ferdinand said: One way is to replace the last few inches of your copper pipe with a flexible 300mm connector which has a push fit on one end and a connector to fit your rad on the other. I have done this, but have seen recommendations against due to them not being designed for constant hot water flow. But otoh most people on here run their CH at a low temperature and do not use it very often. @Nickfromwales? Ferdinand Not on my shift ?. Just my opinion, but they look dire at best and should never be on show. I've seen many lazy bathroom fitters use flexis to fit chrome towel rads and it looks terrible. Plus, push fit flexis are nowhere near as flexible as compression flexis so i tend to avoid them altogether tbh. 7 hours ago, daiking said: Bit of a design flaw there ?, as the top rail would constantly be full of air. They needed to tee the 'vent' out of the top right corner to be getting full marks ? Some mothers do 'ave 'em ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 (edited) Interesting. I just used them on a boarding out project I have been wittering on about on GBF, but in that case time was of the essence and the radiator outmove was about 80mm. I really did not want to be pfaffing or lifting all the carpets and floors. Actually suggested by T who fits kitchens and bathrooms for a living. Rad covers, for which I have plenty of perforated mdf in stock, could be a plan B :-D. Ferdinand Edited December 7, 2016 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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