Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Posted March 25, 2020 It was the right call . This joint ( probably less than a mm gap ) I can see daylight . Doesn’t show in the photo but it’s there . I need to construct a way where I can piece by piece assemble and glue with less time constraint v2
scottishjohn Posted March 25, 2020 Posted March 25, 2020 (edited) 2 minutes ago, pocster said: STOP F ‘ing laughing EVERYONE ! use sixflex or tiger seal --that will take an hour or so to stick firm and up to 24 hrs to be solid --depending on thickness--stuff they stick windscreens in with Edited March 25, 2020 by scottishjohn 1
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Posted March 25, 2020 8 minutes ago, scottishjohn said: use sixflex or tiger seal --that will take an hour or so to stick firm and up to 24 hrs to be solid --depending on thickness--stuff they stick windscreens in with Yeah ? I was using the usual flo plast stuff
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Posted March 25, 2020 10 minutes ago, scottishjohn said: use sixflex or tiger seal --that will take an hour or so to stick firm and up to 24 hrs to be solid --depending on thickness--stuff they stick windscreens in with Ordered a tube of tiger seal . Anything more than 30 seconds would be good . I just used what plumbing website had . If this is just as good but gives time then that is mega helpful ! ?
ProDave Posted March 25, 2020 Posted March 25, 2020 A lesson from this thread for the novice might be forget solvent weld and use push fit where you can. No time limit, plenty of time to do each joint one at a time, and if you have a space issue, a slip coupling is your friend. 3 2
Onoff Posted March 25, 2020 Posted March 25, 2020 2 hours ago, pocster said: You mean block the drain ?? To stop it emptying so fast ? Yep, that's what I meant.
ProDave Posted March 25, 2020 Posted March 25, 2020 You block the drain to stop it emptying AT ALL. You will also need to block the stink pipe, and then pump it up from one remaining drain. 1
scottishjohn Posted March 25, 2020 Posted March 25, 2020 47 minutes ago, ProDave said: A lesson from this thread for the novice might be forget solvent weld and use push fit where you can. No time limit, plenty of time to do each joint one at a time, and if you have a space issue, a slip coupling is your friend. only if you can get at them easy in future --otherwise welded type
MikeSharp01 Posted March 25, 2020 Posted March 25, 2020 Not sure if this is mentioned but it has raced to so00000 long that I am not sure I have the -.... anyway. My solution would be cut a 25mm length of the black pipe, create a cut in the ring (piston ring style) clean up the surfaces with care and spring it over the offending section align the cut with a good bit of the join. Put the solvent cement 25mm along and around the pipe and around the whole face of the female joint that is the problem. Slide the ring up to the face and push hard while the solvent does its work, that should seal it.
Gone West Posted March 25, 2020 Posted March 25, 2020 2 hours ago, pocster said: Ok . Exactly what do I need / do for an air test ? 1 1
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Posted March 25, 2020 1 hour ago, ProDave said: A lesson from this thread for the novice might be forget solvent weld and use push fit where you can. No time limit, plenty of time to do each joint one at a time, and if you have a space issue, a slip coupling is your friend. Wanted solvent weld . Now I have some tiger sealant on the way that will buy me time . Solvent weld I still think is exactly what’s needed for this situation
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Posted March 25, 2020 1 hour ago, MikeSharp01 said: Not sure if this is mentioned but it has raced to so00000 long that I am not sure I have the -.... anyway. My solution would be cut a 25mm length of the black pipe, create a cut in the ring (piston ring style) clean up the surfaces with care and spring it over the offending section align the cut with a good bit of the join. Put the solvent cement 25mm along and around the pipe and around the whole face of the female joint that is the problem. Slide the ring up to the face and push hard while the solvent does its work, that should seal it. I’ve read this a few times . Not sure I get what you are suggesting - sorry .
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Posted March 25, 2020 17 minutes ago, MikeSharp01 said: Hope pic helps Very helpful appreciated!
Jeremy Harris Posted March 25, 2020 Posted March 25, 2020 2 hours ago, ProDave said: A lesson from this thread for the novice might be forget solvent weld and use push fit where you can. No time limit, plenty of time to do each joint one at a time, and if you have a space issue, a slip coupling is your friend. Never a truer word said. I have no solvent weld soil pipe anywhere in the house. I was working alone and knew full well that I didn't have a hope in hell of being able to fit things together in time. Our old house was the same. When I rebuilt the bathroom and WC there all the old pipes were push fit, and they hadn't been a problem for 30 odd years, so I fitted the same again.
ProDave Posted March 25, 2020 Posted March 25, 2020 1 hour ago, scottishjohn said: only if you can get at them easy in future --otherwise welded type Every house I have owned has had at least some push fit waste pipe and I have never known a failure. Solvent weld has it's place. I usually use it for smaller like 30 or 40mm and occasionally 110mm where in some cases a solvent weld fitting took up less space (for getting fittings between posi joists) But most of my house is done with push fit and I have no issue boxing it in behind plasterboard. 1
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Posted March 25, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, ProDave said: A lesson from this thread for the novice might be forget solvent weld and use push fit where you can. No time limit, plenty of time to do each joint one at a time, and if you have a space issue, a slip coupling is your friend. A lesson for a novice might be to not build an underground house . No drama will fix it and weld it with joy ! Edited March 25, 2020 by pocster
Onoff Posted March 25, 2020 Posted March 25, 2020 I took it as a challenge to go solvent weld. I blame that Welsh fu.... ? 1
PeterW Posted March 25, 2020 Posted March 25, 2020 Solvent weld is pretty easy if you ensure you dry mount and mark it all first then take it apart, clean it thoroughly and use a decent solvent adhesive. Then leave to set and come back after 20 mins ...
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Posted March 25, 2020 (edited) 8 minutes ago, Onoff said: I took it as a challenge to go solvent weld. I blame that Welsh fu.... ? I’m going to blame him aswell then ! Edited March 25, 2020 by pocster
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Posted March 25, 2020 3 minutes ago, PeterW said: Solvent weld is pretty easy if you ensure you dry mount and mark it all first then take it apart, clean it thoroughly and use a decent solvent adhesive. Then leave to set and come back after 20 mins ... crumbs ! Come back after 30 seconds ! ?
Onoff Posted March 25, 2020 Posted March 25, 2020 5 minutes ago, pocster said: crumbs ! Come back after 30 seconds ! ? I find leaving EACH joint overnight works... 1
ProDave Posted March 25, 2020 Posted March 25, 2020 1 minute ago, Onoff said: I find leaving EACH joint overnight works... Wouldn't want to rush the joib. 1
Pocster Posted March 25, 2020 Author Posted March 25, 2020 4 minutes ago, ProDave said: Wouldn't want to rush the joib. If I follow @Onoff ‘s example of 1 joint overnight - it would take me a month !
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