BotusBuild Posted March 20, 2020 Posted March 20, 2020 The virus is getting everywhere and has finally done for the existing SwitchMaster VA1 ???
MikeSharp01 Posted March 20, 2020 Posted March 20, 2020 yeah I need a new head as well, this one look awful in the mirror in the morning. 1
Moonshine Posted March 20, 2020 Posted March 20, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Are you changing the whole lot or just the head? looks like he is doing / has done it all, @BotusBuild FYI you can just change the head unit, or even just the motor Edited March 20, 2020 by Moonshine
BotusBuild Posted March 20, 2020 Author Posted March 20, 2020 Unfortunately, you can no longer get a replacement actuator for the Switchmaster VA1 mid-position valve ? It all has to be replaced.
Moonshine Posted March 20, 2020 Posted March 20, 2020 21 minutes ago, BotusBuild said: replacement actuator for the Switchmaster VA1 mid-position valve ? It all has to be replaced. surely you can take the head unit off, rather than having to drain down the whole system!
BotusBuild Posted March 20, 2020 Author Posted March 20, 2020 Nope. Tomorrow I will provide some pictures to show why not - basically the head unit (the silver coloured part in the pic) of this will not fit on the valve (the brass part) of the current fitted valve and you cannot buy a replacement head unit for the current fitted valve
Moonshine Posted March 20, 2020 Posted March 20, 2020 1 hour ago, BotusBuild said: basically the head unit (the silver coloured part in the pic) of this will not fit on the valve (the brass part) of the current fitted valve and you cannot buy a replacement head unit for the current fitted valve Can you buy the replacement motor (assuming that is faulty) for the head unit? not trying to be a smart arse, just trying to save you the job of having to drain down the system / plumb and wire it in.
BotusBuild Posted March 20, 2020 Author Posted March 20, 2020 I've looked at that option too. The SwitchMaster VA1 has been obsolete for years, and now even the internals cannot be found ?
Jeremy Harris Posted March 20, 2020 Posted March 20, 2020 23 minutes ago, BotusBuild said: I've looked at that option too. The SwitchMaster VA1 has been obsolete for years, and now even the internals cannot be found ? The motor should be a standard geared synchronous motor, as these valve companies don't make their own motors, they buy them in, and pretty much every valve uses a very similar motor (most seem to be similar enough to interchange with those from other makes). This is a pretty standard universal valve motor: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SYNCHRON-MOTOR-UNIVERSAL-SYNCHRONOUS-MOTORISED-VALVE-TSSYN/392273178813?hash=item5b554db0bd:g:94EAAOSwwJJcqg-c
Onoff Posted March 20, 2020 Posted March 20, 2020 I've read the Switchmaster has 6 wires whereas a standard say Honeywell has only 5. Found this: sm=====honeywell earth===earth neutral===meutral yellow===white white===grey red, join to orange===orange
BotusBuild Posted March 22, 2020 Author Posted March 22, 2020 Thanks @Onoff I found that one too ? I have now changed the valve, but now have another problem, more later. In the meantime some pics, first the old valve and head and then the new The new head was never going to fit on the old valve ? and finally inside the old head to see the motor. Might take it apart more later on. But now I have to locate one of these Anyone know what that piece of brass is called
Hobbiniho Posted March 22, 2020 Posted March 22, 2020 it is a drain cock although i have never seen one with 2 inlets before
BotusBuild Posted March 22, 2020 Author Posted March 22, 2020 (edited) FYI - the brass piece fits into the side of the hot water tank near the bottom (the larger thread), and the cold feed comes in the other (22mm compression), and obviously the other bit is the drain tap and you can see the need to replace in the first pic Edited March 22, 2020 by BotusBuild
ProDave Posted March 22, 2020 Posted March 22, 2020 WHY does the drain cock need replacing? there is not much to go wrong. If the drain tap won't seal it just needs a new washer.
BotusBuild Posted March 22, 2020 Author Posted March 22, 2020 @ProDave, take a close look at the 3-part "washer" ?. It was part of the piece directly above it. This is a really old style drain trap/cold inlet I think from the early/mid 80's
ProDave Posted March 22, 2020 Posted March 22, 2020 I am sure I could find a washer to replace that. 2 alternatives. Take that drain cock to a plumber merchant and see if the "tap" bit from another drain cock will fit into yours. (take a small adjustable spanner) Or re plumb for a single inlet drain cock and a separate tee.
Onoff Posted March 22, 2020 Posted March 22, 2020 Made by J E Adams. Can you give the exact numbers off the side please. Can't quite make them out.
Onoff Posted March 22, 2020 Posted March 22, 2020 6 minutes ago, BotusBuild said: @Onoff, think it ends 2879 That is I believe the BS number.
BotusBuild Posted March 22, 2020 Author Posted March 22, 2020 1 minute ago, Onoff said: That is I believe the BS number. Yes, looking again it could start BS...
Onoff Posted March 22, 2020 Posted March 22, 2020 I'll go and have a look in my salvaged fittings tubs. I keep everything!
BotusBuild Posted March 22, 2020 Author Posted March 22, 2020 Thanks, just popping into B&Q to see if I can find a BS2879 compliant drain tap to cannibalize (they are controlling numbers in the store)
Temp Posted March 24, 2020 Posted March 24, 2020 Nearest thing I could find.. https://www.plumbnation.co.uk/site/compression-cock-drain-elbows/
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