LA3222 Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 The stell mesh has to be fully o erlapped by adjacent sheets at the corners, when laying the mesh is it better to do all the corners and then work in or start at one corner and work outwards from there? May be a daft question but the sheets are 70kgs for the A393, I would hate to start, realise I should have started differently and redo it all. Or is it a case of it doesn't matter so long as the correct overlaps are adhered to? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichS Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 (edited) Doesn't matter. I would start on one side and just work across giving each sheet the correct overlap, cut to suit and tie together. You may find that laying the sheets in a particular orientation means less cuts but that's just to make things easier. Edited September 10, 2019 by RichS Typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 If you get to the end and have, say, a third left over, can you just go for a really big lap, rather than cutting? Often the offcuts seem to end up in the skip or laying around to trip people up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 A393 seems a bit.... big ..!! Normal is A142 which is 6mm bar, that is 10mm bar so will need some kit to cut it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 +1 to the above. Our 100mm thick structural slab has a single layer of A142. The only place we have thicker rebar is in the 200mm deep ring beam around the edge, but that's just bars, not fabric. We just have overlaps where sheets join, saves cutting. Just wire the overlaps tight together to keep them in place tidily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LA3222 Posted September 10, 2019 Author Share Posted September 10, 2019 2 hours ago, PeterW said: A393 seems a bit.... big ..!! Normal is A142 which is 6mm bar, that is 10mm bar so will need some kit to cut it. Good point there Peter, I had overlooked that particular issue. A393 is specc'd for the thickened parts, A252 throughout the rest of it. Need to work out how to cut it - likely an angle grinder which will be time consuming! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 They do a smaller merchant size at 2.0m x 3.6m which may work better for cutting up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LA3222 Posted September 10, 2019 Author Share Posted September 10, 2019 1 hour ago, Mr Punter said: They do a smaller merchant size at 2.0m x 3.6m which may work better for cutting up. It occurred to me that I may be able to get the supplier to chop it up for me - not sure if they will. The 4.8x2.4 sheet is useful as I need 0.6 wide lengths in the bottom of the thickened perimeter strip so that's the 2.4 sheet cut into 4 strips which would save a lot of work. Most of the other bits will be full sheets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 3 hours ago, LA3222 said: Good point there Peter, I had overlooked that particular issue. A393 is specc'd for the thickened parts, A252 throughout the rest of it. Need to work out how to cut it - likely an angle grinder which will be time consuming! Nope, it won’t be time consuming at all if you use the proper kit, 9inch grinder will get through it in seconds, or a petrol cut off saw will do it even quicker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 You will pay a fair premium to get it cut, if you are doing most of this slab yourself you will be better of going and getting a big grinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LA3222 Posted September 10, 2019 Author Share Posted September 10, 2019 Cheers for the steer @Russell griffiths. The slab (till the concrete pour) seems a simple thing to do - just getting the how straight in my head so I don't have to make things up on the fly once I start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilldes Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 I though I'd resurrect this rather than create new post... Where A142 mesh overlaps (got that as 450mm min for A142 from LABC site) is there a need to tie the two sheet together? If yes, what wire do I need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 https://www.reinforcementproductsonline.co.uk/wire-ties.html Ones like this that have the loops preformed to make it easy with the twist tool. Or just plain wire that you twist by hand and snip off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilldes Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 51 minutes ago, TonyT said: https://www.reinforcementproductsonline.co.uk/wire-ties.html Ones like this that have the loops preformed to make it easy with the twist tool. Or just plain wire that you twist by hand and snip off Many thanks for the link Tony! So the sheets definitely do need to be tied? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 Yep, overlap and tied as per SE instructions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 You will find if you don’t tie it and a fat bloke stands on one piece it can kick the end up causing it to be too close to the surface tie it loads so it acts as one big sheet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hilldes Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 Thanks @TonyT and @Russell griffiths, much appreciated, will tie them. Not specified by SE as it is part of a structural concrete topping on an insulated beam and block floor, A142 specified by the floor manufacturer, but no details on how to tie it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyT Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 Ok use the metal wire at 2 points on the overlap and run down the length of the mesh, imagine every 200mm would be adequate so 2 rows of tie wire on the overlap, no harm in staggering the ties. if you need more add more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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