Basic cement/ ballast Q

[zoothorn]

3 minutes ago, ProDave said:

You are over thinking it.

 

Buy a standard garden cabin, the type that has double doors and iondows opening out onto a veranda that is on the cantilevered bit out over the stream. Lovely place to sit and enjoy the view etc.

 

Then as a means to get into the building, cut another opening in the back and have a door in from the back of the cabin where it is high up level with the grass.

 

 

No Dave if I orientate it round 90* to look over stream.. I have no view (I look into a dark sheer stream bank rising above cabin, 4m away) I have no sunlight (90% of day as this is E, with trees over it too), & I have no symmetry as the cabin & house then not facing each other the long thin gdn 35m between, & no aesthetics as it'll look totally wrong.

 

Thb I just dont mind if its thought I'm over thinking it. I am doing so for good reason: its an extremely difficult area of ground (& extremely prone to weather/ esp wind) to put anything, let alone a 1+ ton cabin with concrete footings. I have never done anything like this before. And I cannot ££afford to make silly mistakes: its going to cost me £1500.. alot for me.

 

Simple for you guys- but very tricky for me.

 

Thanks.

 

I have chosen the cabin, & built these 4 plinths specifically for it.

[Onoff]

23 minutes ago, ProDave said:

You are over thinking it.

 

Buy a standard garden cabin, the type that has double doors and iondows opening out onto a veranda that is on the cantilevered bit out over the stream. Lovely place to sit and enjoy the view etc.

 

Then as a means to get into the building, cut another opening in the back and have a door in from the back of the cabin where it is high up level with the grass.

 

 

+1. I thought that was his plan until this latest round of make it difficult.

Edited September 16, 2019 by Onoff

[Declan52]

So what was the original plan for getting out on to the overhang??

I think we all just assumed you where buying a shed with a door on that side and then you would make another opening on whatever side suited your access the best. 

Or had you never planned to access the overhang area from inside the shed??

Or have you not given much thought to this aspect yet??

 

[zoothorn]

As a reminder. This is my front-door-view.. looking back up to house (very long to house, but narrow L to R). My property is a cigarrette. My house is the butt. Once lit @ the other end is my cabin, its side 2m to stream centre. It's other side 5m to road above, ground goes up steeply here.

 

The stream runs all along one long side, 50m. Gdn narrows at cabin end, plus, the damn slope also steepens too widthways down to stream. N'bors across stream. High bank other side of stream.

 

You can see here my front plinth. Between the white bag & rickety post = my door here. To the RHS of bag is my upper plinth (not yet done here). I'm standing midpoint of cabin with camera. If I step off my deck here, at its LH edge, there's a 1.5m drop. If I step off my deck RH edge twds mixer.. I take one step down onto ground.

[zoothorn]

21 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

Or had you never planned to access the overhang area from inside the shed??

Or have you not given much thought to this aspect yet??

 

 

 

Ok there's confusion I understand now. No Id never planned to access the overhang from inside, only from another front deck. It was always a side walky area addition, my pro chap's idea.

 

I've given a huge ammount of thought on how to construct it, you've seen this. But its only just dawned on me that once I made a separate front deck area, this would need to go right out sideways, in order to meet this overhang area, to be able to walk from the front deck onto it. Tricky.

 

This is why I'm now thinking put the overhang -frontwards orientated- instead/ forgetting the side walky area.. altho it would be useful addition.

[Onoff]

This side walkway is a bit of a late entry isn't it? 

 

Think everyone here was assuming you entered from the rear of the cabin at the top of the slope then walked straight through, out another door overlooking the stream where the balcony was.

[zoothorn]

@Declan52 I freely admit in retrospect I had no plan to get out onto the overhang (other than a vague idea a separate front deck bit would join it & all would be just swell). Stupid sorry. Ive been mulling over how I could make the two join last few days.. but its a no-goer surely, unless anyone can think of a way.

[zoothorn]

4 minutes ago, Onoff said:

This side walkway is a bit of a late entry isn't it? 

 

Think everyone here was assuming you entered from the rear of the cabin at the top of the slope then walked straight through, out another door overlooking the stream where the balcony was.

 

Well no not really, its been the idea from when I was concreting. Its just difficult to explain in words on a post like this, without confusion quickly setting in. I tried my best to be clear where overhang was (I did always refer to it as a 'side' walky bit), & where door/ front was.

 

Understood its my mistake I wasn't clear enough. Apologies chaps.

[ProDave]

Okay, I would make the front of the shed face the house for the views and the sun, and then have a walkway along that front edge and wrapping around the shed so the walkway also goes along the side of the shed facing the stream.

 

You might need to add to what you have already done as that will probably mean a bit more covered with deck.

[zoothorn]

@Onoff I'm back to your shoe link/ matches what I found too. Know what "thunderbolts" are tho? your link has options of + 4x thunderbolts, & + 4x these & bit.

 

And re. the posts.. I can only find 6x6 x 7ft softwood tannalised gateposts, with the nice gently-pointy-ends. Are these right to go in these shoes?

 

Tbh only two clamp-bolts per shoe seems a little light considering some lateral (wind) stress will happen here.

Edited September 16, 2019 by zoothorn

[zoothorn]

5 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Okay, I would make the front of the shed face the house for the views and the sun, and then have a walkway along that front edge and wrapping around the shed so the walkway also goes along the side of the shed facing the stream.

 

You might need to add to what you have already done as that will probably mean a bit more covered with deck.

 

This is exactly what I pictured from the off Dave. But if I did choose the overhang RHS.. then I couldn't have another overhang coming out forwards as well could I? I mean that's asking too much of my base surely. In which case I could only think of making a separate, later addition job, of a front deck area.. & somehow stretching it out twds the overhang RHS, & the two to meet. Somehow. But then my brain melts down.

[Declan52]

30 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

@Declan52 I freely admit in retrospect I had no plan to get out onto the overhang (other than a vague idea a separate front deck bit would join it & all would be just swell). Stupid sorry. Ive been mulling over how I could make the two join last few days.. but its a no-goer surely, unless anyone can think of a way.

A few posts back I put up a pic which should do your job.

[zoothorn]

2 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

A few posts back I put up a pic which should do your job.

 

One with the purple lines?

[Declan52]

1 hour ago, Declan52 said:

Or you could really go to town and have an overhang on both sides so you can walk round to your seating area without going into the cabin. This will be the more expensive option as not only will the timber joists need to be longer but you will need more of whatever you where going to use as a barrier to stop kids falling into the stream. 

This one

[zoothorn]

5 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

This one

 

I did see this Declan, but I can't see what the orange lines does RHS..

 

Did you mean extend the beam no.3 forwards (& therefore presumably no.4 forwards too) so having -two- cantilevered additions?

[zoothorn]

@Onoff here's your galv 6x6 shoe link again.. https://www.tradecounteronline.co.uk/taurus-bolt-down-shoe-bolt-secure-hot-dip-galvanised-suit-post-size-150mm-6/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqZjQ69XV5AIVRLTtCh2QLAZhEAQYBCABEgJNvfD_BwE

 

thunderbolts? sds bit?

[ProDave]

31 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

This is exactly what I pictured from the off Dave. But if I did choose the overhang RHS.. then I couldn't have another overhang coming out forwards as well could I? I mean that's asking too much of my base surely. In which case I could only think of making a separate, later addition job, of a front deck area.. & somehow stretching it out twds the overhang RHS, & the two to meet. Somehow. But then my brain melts down.

Go back to first principles.  Work out both dimensions of shed + walkway.

 

That gives you a rectangle.  On that rectangle you will place a shed that is smaller than the rectangle giving you the walkway along 2 sides.

 

ALL you have to to is make a platform that size, and put a shed on it.

 

It sounds like you forgot one of the walkways and have designed the platform to only have space for a walkway on one side and are now talking of adding that walkway on.  Forget that, go and re design your platform to make it the correct size to start with. That might mean it now has a cantilever on two sides.

[Declan52]

12 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

I did see this Declan, but I can't see what the orange lines does RHS..

 

Did you mean extend the beam no.3 forwards (& therefore presumably no.4 forwards too) so having -two- cantilevered additions?

The orange lines are an overhanging deck out from what you have on that plan. They will go down that side and join up with the other bit that is already meant to over hang. You will end up with a path on 2 sides which both are over hanging. 

This just shows the importance of having an actual plan drew out then we could have edited that drawing . I think no matter how long it will take you need to sit down and draw a plan out. 

[Onoff]

1 hour ago, zoothorn said:

@Onoff I'm back to your shoe link/ matches what I found too. Know what "thunderbolts" are tho? your link has options of + 4x thunderbolts, & + 4x these & bit.

 

Thunderbolts are a concrete fixing screw like this:

 

 

You drill a hole then wind this in where it cuts it's own thread. Supposed to produce a stress free fixing that can be used close to the edge of concrete structures. I think you're pro guy suggested resin anchors? These really do produce a stress free fixing. You:

 

- Drill a hole

- Blow out the dust

- Pump in resin, a bit like 2 pack epoxy glue but grittier (goes in a standard mastic gun)

- Push in a threaded stud

- Let it set

- Bolt down your bracket

 

 

 

[Onoff]

10 hours ago, zoothorn said:

Yes.. but takes me hours! I can't do super quick like you

 

Maybe once!

 

SWMBOs been tidying the loft and found my old CAD portfolio!

 

 

Surface mesh? Looks like my garden after the badgers have turned it over! 

 

 

 

[zoothorn]

@Onoff thanks for tips on screws. Are they really £10 for 4 tho? seems damn dear (on your galv shoe link.. seems they need a special bit too.. but your pic gold one above seems to be a std hex head).

[Onoff]

9 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

@Onoff thanks for tips on screws. Are they really £10 for 4 tho? seems damn dear (on your galv shoe link.. seems they need a special bit too.. but your pic gold one above seems to be a std hex head).

 

Tbh I'd use stainless steel studs and resin instead of Thunderbolts.

[zoothorn]

3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Tbh I'd use stainless steel studs and resin instead of Thunderbolts.

 

But not so easy for me to find? there are thousands of different 'stainless steel studs'.. only a few thunderbolts, which seem a bit like those batten > wall screws that fit the bill to a T.

 

The flange-hex top though.. does this need a special type of hex socket bit job? or is a std hex socket > drill driver the way?

[Onoff]

7 minutes ago, zoothorn said:

 

But not so easy for me to find? there are thousands of different 'stainless steel studs'.. only a few thunderbolts, which seem a bit like those batten > wall screws that fit the bill to a T.

 

The flange-hex top though.. does this need a special type of hex socket bit job? or is a std hex socket > drill driver the way?

 

The ad for those brackets I linked says:

 

"4 x 8mmx75mm Multi Fix Thunder Bolts"

 

You could likely use this cut to size:

 

https://www.toolstation.com/stainless-steel-threaded-bar/p45452

 

[zoothorn]

@Onoff I can get the m8 threaded steel rod in town ok.. but I don't understand how it could fix A to B (with hex nuts? but they'll surely rust & need a long bit section to go right over rod, to get to nut to tighten.. if so).

 

I'm a bit confused here- this is why 'JFDI' without careful thought is totally unwise. I wouldn't have a clue where I'm at at step1.

 

Ok, how would anyone tighten these thunderbolts up? the shoe prevents a spanner, so you need to get to head from the top afaict.. but the adjacent shoe surely prevents this. A "bit" is mentioned in your link.. but no pic/ Ive no idea what it could be or what tool it attatches to.