Nick1c Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 Anyone used them? Our architect has specced them. The weather can be pretty brutal - overlooking the Atlantic close to lands end & he thinks they are needed, I think they are common in these parts. All the windows will be sitting on timber, 2 sliding doors & the front door will be on the concrete slab. If it helps I will do it, but all that lead will be expensive....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 I don't know about trays but I used lead flashing above windows in a timber clad building to prevent water getting in. It basically extends the membrane behind the cladding out over the head of the window. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 Lead seems a bit extreme and as you state expensive Regardless of conditions you shouldn’t get much if anything soaking through the outer skin Most trays are made up of damp course or rigid pvc and inexpensive Architects are good at spending other people’s money Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 (edited) Nick - What is your outer skin? The other place we have some lead is on the top of some brick plinths/external window sills. Apparently that's an NHBC recommendation / anti frost spalling measure. Edited August 10, 2019 by Temp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick1c Posted August 10, 2019 Author Share Posted August 10, 2019 The rainscreen is mostly timber (WRC or SILa, tbc), with a small amount of render. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 Lead isn’t that expensive assuming you don’t have 40 windows ... what is the section detail the architect has given you ..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 45 minutes ago, PeterW said: Lead isn’t that expensive assuming you don’t have 40 windows ... what is the section detail the architect has given you ..? More expensive than pVC ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 We didn't do a tray for our dormer, and the only lead we used on the roof was for the chimney back gutters. Everything else we used Leadax for and it's great to work with. Much cheaper than the real thing too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 I insist on lead dormers - looks the business. I will use leadex where it can be reached to stop it being removed by light fingers ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 (edited) You should really have a tray, or cill pan below all windows and doors IMHO but I think there are better materials than lead, unless he wants you to weld all the corners you will get water penetration at the corners. You can buy specific tapes that stretch for forming the corners with no cutting, so no weak junction areas. You can also get a liquid flashing, this is what I will be using. Go to you tube to look for some horror stories of badly fitted windows. Edited August 11, 2019 by Russell griffiths Crap spelling. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 1 hour ago, Russell griffiths said: You can by specific tapes that stretch for forming the corners with no cutting, so no weak junction areas. I have used https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/dupont-tyvek-flexwrap-nf-152mm-x-23m.html around pipes and ducts and for under / a bit up the sides of windows. One roll should do the whole house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_T Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 On 10/08/2019 at 22:18, Russell griffiths said: "You can also get a liquid flashing, this is what I will be using" While researching timber frame construction online, most of the information I come across is US based and I often come across 'Liquid flashing' which I am keen to use but I am having difficulty finding anything in the UK. There are a myriad of 'sealants' available but none seem specifically for timberframe/sheathing. Have you come across anything in the UK that you can recommend? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 5 hours ago, Gary_T said: While researching timber frame construction online, most of the information I come across is US based and I often come across 'Liquid flashing' which I am keen to use but I am having difficulty finding anything in the UK. There are a myriad of 'sealants' available but none seem specifically for timberframe/sheathing. Have you come across anything in the UK that you can recommend? Thanks Look for products made by ILLBRUCK I have been using sp295 it comes in foil tubes, sticks to everything. Most people use the stretch tape on timberframe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_T Posted July 2, 2020 Share Posted July 2, 2020 On 28/06/2020 at 08:38, Russell griffiths said: Look for products made by ILLBRUCK I have been using sp295 it comes in foil tubes, sticks to everything. Most people use the stretch tape on timberframe The ILLBRUCK website seems ideal. Thanks for the info. Can't see the sp295 but I will be checking out sp525, sp925 and FS500. I will probably use Tape on sheathing joints but don't trust tape around the vulnerable foundation-to-Frame Junction and so I am considering a belt and braces approach, fibre-cement lower sheathing 'skirt' with 'liquid flashing'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 10 hours ago, Gary_T said: The ILLBRUCK website seems ideal. Thanks for the info. Can't see the sp295 but I will be checking out sp525, sp925 and FS500. I will probably use Tape on sheathing joints but don't trust tape around the vulnerable foundation-to-Frame Junction and so I am considering a belt and braces approach, fibre-cement lower sheathing 'skirt' with 'liquid flashing'? I think it’s 925 air sealing I used. Too many numbers bouncing around in my head. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrdave Posted July 11, 2020 Share Posted July 11, 2020 On 03/07/2020 at 08:54, Russell griffiths said: I think it’s 925 air sealing I used. Too many numbers bouncing around in my head. What colour is this stuff? I may want to use it around some timber beams for some remedial sealing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted July 11, 2020 Share Posted July 11, 2020 Black/ very dark blue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrdave Posted July 11, 2020 Share Posted July 11, 2020 4 hours ago, Russell griffiths said: Black/ very dark blue. Thanks. I may have to think again unless it is paintable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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