PeterW Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 1 minute ago, oldkettle said: The cable in question is the light grey one that goes down from the switch. This picture is only to show where the connection originates. As @ProDave confirmed, no RCD. I should have looked it up earlier of course, don't think I saw a single one anywhere in the house. So at some point, grey becomes blue ..!! Wonder what that junction looks like ..?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldkettle Posted June 15, 2019 Author Share Posted June 15, 2019 1 minute ago, PeterW said: So at some point, grey becomes blue ..!! Wonder what that junction looks like ..?! Not even sure where this happens, must be somewhere behind the summer house (and it is not easy to get in there) But yes, it is grey to the summer house and then blue to the greenhouse. Since this connection is not inside the summer house I doubt it would have an RCD ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 I would be getting an electrician to rewire the supply to both the shed and summerhouse. I think you have proved none of it is safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldkettle Posted June 15, 2019 Author Share Posted June 15, 2019 And the last one - grey to blue connection. @ProDave, yes, this is quite clear. I hope to deal with it when we build our extension as most of the electrics will have to change. I am the only one trimming hedges and mowing the lawn, hopefully it will survive another year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 On 12/06/2019 at 09:36, Carrerahill said: It does not satisfy BS7671 (the wiring regs) but it is not illegal - the police will not be making arrests, there are very very few things that do not comply with regs that would be considered illegal. You have many options here - this is just a summer house feed - I assume not part of building works or anything, in which case you just want to make it safe. Undo it, route it through conduit, clip conduit to fence, re-connect. Replace with SWA Dig a trench and bury SWA. Here are the sections which pertain to your situation: 512.2 External influences512.2.1 Equipment shall be of a design appropriate to the situation in which it is to be used or its mode ofinstallation shall take account of the conditions likely to be encountered.512.2.2 If the equipment does not, by its construction, have the characteristics relevant to the externalinfluences of its location, it may nevertheless be used on condition that it is provided with appropriate additionalprotection in the erection of the installation. Such protection shall not adversely affect the operation of the equipmentthus protected.512.2.3 Where different external influences occur simultaneously, they may have independent or mutualeffects and the degree of protection shall be provided accordingly.512.2.4 The selection of equipment according to external influences is necessary not only for properfunctioning, but also for the reliability of the measures of protection for safety complying with these Regulationsgenerally. Measures of protection afforded by the construction of equipment are valid only for the given conditionsof external influence if the corresponding equipment specification tests are made in these conditions of externalinfluence. 522 SELECTION AND ERECTION OF WIRING SYSTEMS IN RELATION TO EXTERNALINFLUENCESThe installation method selected shall be such that protection against the expected external influences is providedin all appropriate parts of the wiring system. Particular care shall be taken at changes in direction and where wiringenters into equipment.NOTE: The external influences categorised in Appendix 5 which are of significance to wiring systems are included in thissection.522.1 Ambient temperature (AA)522.1.1 A wiring system shall be selected and erected so as to be suitable for the highest and lowest localambient temperatures and so that the limiting temperature in normal operation (see Table 52.1) and the limitingtemperature in case of a fault (see Table 43.1) will not be exceeded.522.1.2 Wiring system components, including cables and wiring accessories, shall only be installed orhandled at temperatures within the limits stated in the relevant product specification or as given by the manufacturer.522.2 External heat sources522.2.1 In order to avoid the effects of heat from external sources, one or more of the following methods oran equally effective method shall be used to protect a wiring system:(i) Shielding(ii) Placing sufficiently far from the source of heat(iii) Selecting a system with due regard for the additional temperature rise which may occur(iv) Local reinforcement or substitution of insulating material.NOTE: Heat from external sources may be radiated, conducted or convected, e.g.:- from hot water systems- from plant, appliances and luminaires- from a manufacturing process- through heat conducting materials- from solar gain of the wiring system or its surrounding medium.522.2.201 Parts of a cable within an accessory, appliance or luminaire shall be suitable for the temperatureslikely to be encountered, as determined in accordance with Regulation 522.1.1, or shall be provided with additionalinsulation suitable for those temperatures.522.3 Presence of water (AD) or high humidity (AB)522.3.1 A wiring system shall be selected and erected so that no damage is caused by condensation or ingressof water during installation, use and maintenance. The completed wiring system shall comply with the IP degree ofprotection (see BS EN 60529) relevant to the particular location.NOTE: Special considerations apply to wiring systems liable to frequent splashing, immersion or submersion.522.3.2 Where water may collect or condensation may form in a wiring system, provision shall be made forits escape.522.3.3 Where a wiring system may be subjected to waves (AD6), protection against mechanical damageshall be afforded by one or more of the methods of Regulations 522.6 to 8.139522.4 Presence of solid foreign bodies (AE)522.4.1 A wiring system shall be selected and erected so as to minimise the danger arising from the ingress ofsolid foreign bodies. The completed wiring system shall comply with the IP degree of protection (see BS EN 60529)relevant to the particular location.522.4.2 In a location where dust in significant quantity is present (AE4), additional precautions shall be takento prevent the accumulation of dust or other substances in quantities which could adversely affect heat dissipationfrom the wiring system.NOTE: A wiring system which facilitates the removal of dust may be necessary (see Section 529).522.5 Presence of corrosive or polluting substances (AF)522.5.1 Where the presence of corrosive or polluting substances, including water, is likely to give rise tocorrosion or deterioration, parts of the wiring system likely to be affected shall be suitably protected or manufacturedfrom a material resistant to such substances.NOTE: Suitable protection for application during erection may include protective tapes, paints or grease.522.5.2 Dissimilar metals liable to initiate electrolytic action shall not be placed in contact with each other,unless special arrangements are made to avoid the consequences of such contact.522.5.3 Materials liable to cause mutual or individual deterioration or hazardous degradation shall not beplaced in contact with each other.522.6 Impact (AG)522.6.1 Wiring systems shall be selected and erected so as to minimise the damage arising from mechanicalstress, e.g. by impact, abrasion, penetration, tension or compression during installation, use or maintenance.522.6.2 In a fixed installation where impacts of medium severity (AG2) or high severity (AG3) can occurprotection shall be afforded by:(i) the mechanical characteristics of the wiring system, or(ii) the location selected, or(iii) the provision of additional local or general protection against mechanical damage, or(iv) any combination of the above.NOTE: Examples are areas where the floor is likely to be penetrated and areas used by forklift trucks.522.6.3 Not used522.6.4 The degree of protection of electrical equipment shall be maintained after installation of the cablesand conductors.522.6.201 A cable installed under a floor or above a ceiling shall be run in such a position that it is not liable tobe damaged by contact with the floor or ceiling or their fixings.A cable passing through a joist within a floor or ceiling construction or through a ceiling support (e.g. underfloorboards), shall:(i) be installed at least 50 mm measured vertically from the top, or bottom as appropriate, of the joist or batten,or(ii) comply with Regulation 522.6.204.522.6.202 A cable installed in a wall or partition at a depth of less than 50 mm from a surface of the wall orpartition shall:(i) be installed in a zone within 150 mm from the top of the wall or partition or within 150 mm of an angle formedby two adjoining walls or partitions. Where the cable is connected to a point, accessory or switchgear on anysurface of the wall or partition, the cable may be installed in a zone either horizontally or vertically, to thepoint, accessory or switchgear. Where the location of the accessory, point or switchgear can be determinedfrom the reverse side, a zone formed on one side of a wall of 100 mm thickness or less or partition of100 mm thickness or less extends to the reverse side, or(ii) comply with Regulation 522.6.204.Where indent (i) but not indent (ii) applies, the cable shall be provided with additional protection by means of anRCD having the characteristics specified in Regulation 415.1.1.140522.6.203 Irrespective of its buried depth, a cable concealed in a wall or partition, the internal construction ofwhich includes metallic parts, other than metallic fixings such as nails, screws and the like, shall:(i) be provided with additional protection by means of an RCD having the characteristics specified in Regulation415.1.1, or(ii) comply with Regulation 522.6.204.For a cable installed at a depth of less than 50 mm from the surface of a wall or partition the requirements ofRegulation 522.6.202(i) shall also apply.522.6.204 For the purposes of Regulation 522.6.201(ii), Regulation 522.6.202(ii) and Regulation 522.6.203(ii),a cable shall:(i) incorporate an earthed metallic covering which complies with the requirements of these Regulations fora protective conductor of the circuit concerned, the cable complying with BS 5467, BS 6724, BS 7846,BS 8436 or BS EN 60702-1, or(ii) be installed in earthed conduit complying with BS EN 61386-21 and satisfying the requirements of theseRegulations for a protective conductor, or(iii) be enclosed in earthed trunking or ducting complying with BS EN 50085-2-1 and satisfying the requirementsof these Regulations for a protective conductor, or(iv) be provided with mechanical protection against damage sufficient to prevent penetration of the cable bynails, screws and the like, or(v) form part of a SELV or PELV circuit meeting the requirements of Regulation 414.4.522.7 Vibration (AH)522.7.1 A wiring system supported by or fixed to a structure or equipment subject to vibration of mediumseverity (AH2) or high severity (AH3) shall be suitable for such conditions, particularly where cables and cableconnections are concerned.522.7.2 For the fixed installation of suspended current-using equipment, e.g. luminaries, connection shall bemade by cable with flexible cores. Where no vibration or movement can be expected, cable with non-flexible coresmay be used.522.8 Other mechanical stresses (AJ)522.8.1 A wiring system shall be selected and erected to avoid during installation, use or maintenance,damage to the sheath or insulation of cables and their terminations. The use of any lubricants that can have adetrimental effect on the cable or wiring system are not permitted.522.8.2 Where buried in the structure, a conduit system or cable ducting system, other than a pre-wiredconduit assembly specifically designed for the installation, shall be completely erected between access points beforeany cable is drawn in.522.8.3 The radius of every bend in a wiring system shall be such that conductors or cables do not sufferdamage and terminations are not stressed.522.8.4 Where conductors or cables are not supported continuously due to the method of installation, theyshall be supported by suitable means at appropriate intervals in such a manner that the conductors or cables do notsuffer damage by their own weight.522.8.5 Every cable or conductor shall be supported in such a way that it is not exposed to undue mechanicalstrain and so that there is no appreciable mechanical strain on the terminations of the conductors, account beingtaken of mechanical strain imposed by the supported weight of the cable or conductor itself.NOTE: Consumer unit meter tails are included in the requirements of this regulation.522.8.6 A wiring system intended for the drawing in or out of conductors or cables shall have adequate meansof access to allow this operation.522.8.7 A wiring system buried in a floor shall be sufficiently protected to prevent damage caused by theintended use of the floor.522.8.8 Not used522.8.9 Not used141522.8.10 Except where installed in a conduit or duct which provides equivalent protection against mechanicaldamage, a cable buried in the ground shall incorporate an earthed armour or metal sheath or both, suitable for useas a protective conductor. The location of buried cables shall be marked by cable covers or a suitable marker tape.Buried conduits and ducts shall be suitably identified. Buried cables, conduits and ducts shall be at a sufficient depthto avoid being damaged by any reasonably foreseeable disturbance of the ground.NOTE: BS EN 61386-24 is the standard for underground conduits.522.8.11 Cable supports and enclosures shall not have sharp edges liable to damage the wiring system.522.8.12 A cable or conductors shall not be damaged by the means of fixing.522.8.13 Cables, bus-bars and other electrical conductors which pass across expansion joints shall be soselected or erected that anticipated movement does not cause damage to the electrical equipment.522.8.14 No wiring system shall penetrate an element of building construction which is intended to be loadbearing unless the integrity of the load-bearing element can be assured after such penetration.522.9Presenceofforaand/ormouldgrowth(AK)522.9.1 Where the conditions experienced or expected constitute a hazard (AK2), the wiring system shall beselected accordingly or special protective measures shall be adopted.NOTE 1: An installation method which facilitates the removal of such growths may be necessary (see Section 529).NOTE 2: Possible preventive measures are closed types of installation (conduit or channel), maintaining distances to plants andregular cleaning of the relevant wiring system.522.10 Presence of fauna (AL)522.10.1 Where conditions experienced or expected constitute a hazard (AL2), the wiring system shall beselected accordingly or special protective measures shall be adopted, for example, by:(i) the mechanical characteristics of the wiring system, or(ii) the location selected, or(iii) the provision of additional local or general protection against mechanical damage, or(iv) any combination of the above.522.11 Solar radiation (AN) and ultraviolet radiation522.11.1 Where significant solar radiation (AN2) or ultraviolet radiation is experienced or expected, a wiringsystem suitable for the conditions shall be selected and erected or adequate shielding shall be provided. Specialprecautions may need to be taken for equipment subject to ionising radiation.NOTE: See also Regulation 522.2.1 dealing with temperature rise.522.12 Seismic effects (AP)522.12.1 The wiring system shall be selected and erected with due regard to the seismic hazards of the locationof the installation.522.12.2 Where the seismic hazards experienced are low severity (AP2) or higher, particular attention shall bepaid to the following:(i) The fixing of wiring systems to the building structure(ii) The connections between the fixed wiring and all items of essential equipment, e.g. safety services, shall beselected for their flexible quality.522.13 Movement of air (AR)522.13.1 See Regulation 522.7, Vibration (AH), and Regulation 522.8, Other mechanical stresses (AJ).522.14 Nature of processed or stored materials (BE)522.14.1 See Section 527, Selection and erection of wiring systems to minimise the spread of fre andSection 422, Precautions where particular risks of fre exist.522.15 Building design (CB)522.15.1 Where risks due to structural movement exist (CB3), the cable support and protection systememployed shall be capable of permitting relative movement so that conductors and cables are not subjected toexcessive mechanical stress.142522.15.2 For a flexible structure or a structure intended to move (CB4), a flexible wiring system shall be used. Does nobody on here give a flying f*** about copyright? Ripped off from the dodgy PDF is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldkettle Posted June 15, 2019 Author Share Posted June 15, 2019 3 minutes ago, Onoff said: Does nobody on here give a flying f*** about copyright? Ripped off from the dodgy PDF is it? I must say it is quite odd that the regulations text is copyrighted. Vaguely remember this was discussed before. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 (edited) 5 minutes ago, oldkettle said: I must say it is quite odd that the regulations text is copyrighted. Vaguely remember this was discussed before. They do that so that a - They can control and defend it for integrity and trustworthiness reasons. b - They can charge you money for it. Edited June 15, 2019 by Ferdinand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 (edited) 17 minutes ago, oldkettle said: I must say it is quite odd that the regulations text is copyrighted. Vaguely remember this was discussed before. Yes, it's copyright, but there is a fair dealing provision, and that provision allows for sections to be copied where such copying may inform and educate, amongst other reasons. I see no problem with this, it should be actively encouraged, as the very last thing we need is more secrecy and control around safe practice. We have enough of that from the dubious Part P cartels trying to profit from giving an illusion of safety. If anyone wants chapter and verse on what is allowable under fair dealing, then this is from the government website: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/exceptions-to-copyright And, just to be 100% clear, as an IET member I have paid for copies of 7671, the OSG etc, so whenever I've quoted excerpts from those documents I've done so from documents I have purchased, not "ripped off from dodgy PDF" stuff. Edited June 15, 2019 by JSHarris added clarification sentence at the end 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldkettle Posted June 15, 2019 Author Share Posted June 15, 2019 5 minutes ago, Ferdinand said: They do that so that a - They can control and defend it for integrity and trustworthiness reasons. b - They can charge you money for it. I know these are not arguments you are defending ? a) somehow the government are publishing laws online and nobody is worried about the integrity b) is of course a good point and the main point. I personally think that if I must obey by certain rules than these rules must be out there in the open. I am not a competent person but I want to be able to check that something done or suggested by someone else (however competent) is reasonably safe, very difficult without being able to even read the rules. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 I've long felt that the wiring regs should be freely available, in the same way as the building regs are. We have the incredibly daft situation (in England and Wales) where Part P is freely available (here: https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/441872/BR_PDF_AD_P_2013.pdf ) and yet BS7671 is not, it costs an arm and a leg to buy. This is plainly ludicrous, as Part P is pretty meaningless in places unless the reader has a copy of BS7671 to hand. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 (edited) Edit Edited June 15, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 6 hours ago, oldkettle said: And the last one - grey to blue connection. @ProDave, yes, this is quite clear. I hope to deal with it when we build our extension as most of the electrics will have to change. I am the only one trimming hedges and mowing the lawn, hopefully it will survive another year. Ahh ..!! All is ok as it’s a commando socket wrapped in black tape ..... why do people think this sort of stuff is ok ..??! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 6 hours ago, oldkettle said: And the last one - grey to blue connection. @ProDave, yes, this is quite clear. I hope to deal with it when we build our extension as most of the electrics will have to change. I am the only one trimming hedges and mowing the lawn, hopefully it will survive another year. That's actually a proper IP6X one. Undoubtedly let down by a bad gland install. Top entry is the work of the Devil. Bottom or rear entry every time if you can. Appreciate difficult against a fence post. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 27 minutes ago, PeterW said: Ahh ..!! All is ok as it’s a commando socket wrapped in black tape ..... why do people think this sort of stuff is ok ..??! Apart from the fact that there are some people that will just bodge anything together, I believe that another reason is that it's just so damned hard for a lot of people to find out how to DIY something safely. There's loads of information around on stuff like plumbing, but there's a really strange attitude amongst some when it comes to electrical installation work. Sure the best answer is always to get a competent and suitably qualified electrician to do the work, but if someone can't afford that, then the next best thing is to make sure that all the information needed to be able to do a safe DIY job is readily available. Yes, this means that often an installation won't be 100% tested as it should be, as the test gear needed is beyond the means of many DIY'ers on a budget, but it's really not hard to just do a fairly straightforward job, like running power to a shed, safely, if the information on how to do it is made readily available. I know this probably pisses off some in the trade, but my view has always been that if someone can't afford an electrician then they are probably just going to DIY the job anyway. Better that someone intent on DIY has access to information to do a reasonable job, than have the situation we have now where some people do crap work out of ignorance. It also seems that it's not just DIY'ers that are doing some really dodgy electrical installation work. YouTube is littered with videos by competent electricians highlighting really dodgy stuff that has been done by incompetent members of one or other of the Part P cartels. What really gets my goat is that after getting a degree I had to sit CEI Part 2 in order to join the IEE (as it was back in 1975). Now someone that's done a 5 week Part P course can be a "competent" person and IET member, yet they may well not know their arse from their elbow. How any short course can produce someone of equal competence to someone that's served their time I just don't know. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldkettle Posted June 15, 2019 Author Share Posted June 15, 2019 11 minutes ago, Onoff said: That's actually a proper IP6X one. Undoubtedly let down by a bad gland install. Top entry is the work of the Devil. Bottom or rear entry every time if you can. Appreciate difficult against a fence post. That's the difference between a professional and an incompetent person. Haven't even noticed it was top entry. In my defence, it wasn't easy to take this picture. Not a fence but a back of the summer house surrounded by a thick hedge. ? Is this one any better? That's actually mine, a replacement light. Don't hold back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 47 minutes ago, oldkettle said: That's the difference between a professional and an incompetent person. Haven't even noticed it was top entry. In my defence, it wasn't easy to take this picture. Not a fence but a back of the summer house surrounded by a thick hedge. ? Is this one any better? That's actually mine, a replacement light. Don't hold back. Other option would have been an IP6X junction box. Fed from loft is it? A neat option is feed through the back of a wall mount jb then bottom entry to the light fitting. Silicon the back of the jb where it meets the wall. I like the IP6X Amphenol / Bucaneer style connectors like those, good for 16A some of those. What I do is go belt and braces & pack the inside of the connector with silicone grease at work. They last indefinitely. How does the white cable come out of "wherever"? Watch for chaffing. I'd have used black too. I'd have added some nylon P clips and used stainless screws tidy things up / stop things flapping in the wind. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldkettle Posted June 15, 2019 Author Share Posted June 15, 2019 9 minutes ago, Onoff said: Other option would have been an IP6X junction box. Fed from loft is it? A neat option is feed through the back of a wall mount jb then bottom entry to the light fitting. Silicon the back of the jb where it meets the wall. I like the IP6X Amphenol / Bucaneer style connectors like those, good for 16A some of those. What I do is go belt and braces & pack the inside of the connector with silicone grease at work. They last indefinitely. How does the white cable come out of "wherever"? Watch for chaffing. I'd have used black too. I'd have added some nylon P clips and used stainless screws tidy things up / stop things flapping in the wind. Thank you. P clips will certainly make it look better and stop any movement. Do you you fill the whole of the inside with grease? This stuff is not that cheap, £15+/500ml. On the other hand, the connector itself is more expensive anyway. This was an existing cable out of the garage front that was previously connected straight to another light. The new LED came with the short length so had to couple the two. The exit is actually under a small canopy _not sure what part of it can be seen in the picture. Ultimately, this will also be replaced at some point after the extension - money permitting of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, oldkettle said: Do you you fill the whole of the inside with grease? This stuff is not that cheap, £15+/500ml. Yep. Price is about right but you can get tubes for around a fiver. I use it for everything. I dip wire ends in before I put crimps on if something is going in an external enclosure. I then dip the crimp in, say a 1/4" blade type. Loads of mates now use on their motorbike connections. Good on car battery terminals for stopping crud building up. Dip your coax cable ends in before fitting F connectors onto satellite dish LNBs etc. I found it suggested here first: http://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/silicone.htm Edited June 15, 2019 by Onoff Poor spelling! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted June 16, 2019 Share Posted June 16, 2019 12 hours ago, JSHarris said: I believe that another reason is that it's just so damned hard for a lot of people to find out how to DIY something safely. I go along with that. One of the problems that all trades suffer from is jargon. Something to just stop that would be a good move, then people can start talking a common language. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted June 16, 2019 Share Posted June 16, 2019 14 hours ago, oldkettle said: That's the difference between a professional and an incompetent person. Haven't even noticed it was top entry. In my defence, it wasn't easy to take this picture. Not a fence but a back of the summer house surrounded by a thick hedge. ? Is this one any better? That's actually mine, a replacement light. Don't hold back. That's a pet hate of mine, that most LED floodlights now come with a flying lead, forcing you to fix a waterproof junction box to the wall, What was wrong with the old idea of a terminal box on the back of the light fitting? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 16, 2019 Share Posted June 16, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, SteamyTea said: I go along with that. One of the problems that all trades suffer from is jargon. Something to just stop that would be a good move, then people can start talking a common language. Let's make electrics even simpler, no words! Edit: Other than the ones in the cartoon... Edited June 16, 2019 by Onoff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted June 16, 2019 Share Posted June 16, 2019 29 minutes ago, ProDave said: That's a pet hate of mine, that most LED floodlights now come with a flying lead, forcing you to fix a waterproof junction box to the wall, What was wrong with the old idea of a terminal box on the back of the light fitting? My pet hate too. I bought a lot of LED outdoor lights (that turned out to have a floating earth wire internally, another story) and ended up rearranging them internally so there was room for a terminal block. The daft thing is that these lights had a nice sealing gland for the cable and room inside for a bit of choc block so it would have been cheaper and easier to make them without the short (and useless) lead. If anyone buys any metal cased LED outside lights then I strongly recommend testing them to make sure the metal case is really earthed. It was only my suspicious nature that led to me discovering the lack of any earthing. On a related topic, I'm not that comfortable with the use of PVC flex on these things, either. The lights outside the garage of our old house had been wired with white PVC covered flex and it cracked quite badly, presumably as a result of sunlight degrading it. All the flexible cable on the lights here is H07RN-F, as it's rated for outdoor use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 16, 2019 Share Posted June 16, 2019 4 minutes ago, JSHarris said: My pet hate too. I bought a lot of LED outdoor lights (that turned out to have a floating earth wire internally, another story) and ended up rearranging them internally so there was room for a terminal block. The daft thing is that these lights had a nice sealing gland for the cable and room inside for a bit of choc block so it would have been cheaper and easier to make them without the short (and useless) lead. If anyone buys any metal cased LED outside lights then I strongly recommend testing them to make sure the metal case is really earthed. It was only my suspicious nature that led to me discovering the lack of any earthing. On a related topic, I'm not that comfortable with the use of PVC flex on these things, either. The lights outside the garage of our old house had been wired with white PVC covered flex and it cracked quite badly, presumably as a result of sunlight degrading it. All the flexible cable on the lights here is H07RN-F, as it's rated for outdoor use. Meant to say about UV crazing. Painting cable too can be detrimental. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted June 16, 2019 Share Posted June 16, 2019 I’ve started speccing these on any joints where there could be moisture Wiska Joint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldkettle Posted June 16, 2019 Author Share Posted June 16, 2019 43 minutes ago, JSHarris said: If anyone buys any metal cased LED outside lights then I strongly recommend testing them to make sure the metal case is really earthed. Went to double check how to test this correctly (I'd measure resistance but most links say voltage) and immediately found a lot of references where people got zero between live and earth or voltage between neutral and earth. It's a minefield! ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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