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Hi, I'm hoping to get some advice on a project I'm looking to start, I thought I'd start here in the General Building discussion first before moving to specific forums for detail. I am looking to construct and outbuilding, that will be used a Gym mainly, but could be other uses in the future (but not a dwelling). I already have some stables (that have never been stables) that I wish to extend from mostly because I want to convert one part of them into an Office, then build my Gym space off to the side. I have included some rough sketches on my thoughts, plus a photo of the existing building. You can see that I'd like to connect to the original building, which is Block/Render and a slate tile roof. Supporting points: - I'd like to keep the finish outside to Slate roof tiles and a rendered finish to match. - I'm keen for this to be a quick build and will be most likely during Nov-Feb. - Finishing the internals will be done by myself but the main construction of the building I'd like to outsource. - Cost of the build isn't necessary the driver, so if one type of build is 20% more, but 50% quicker, then I'm not that bothered. - My other worry is managing to find trades people for some parts of the build if I go traditional. - I wanted to have a door between the internals of the old build and new. - I don't have any specific requirements for thermal/U values, but naturally I will want it insulated either way so that the gym isn't baltic during the winter, nor a furnace in the summer. - In terms of location, this is in rural wales, but sheltered, so not likely to see extreme weather (other than the usual 364.5 days of rain we get). The questions I'd like some input are: 1. Type of construction - would people follow on with Block etc for easer, or could SIP's or any other modern material be used for the structural build, but still have the finish match on the outside? 2. Is it worth bothering with a modern material for such a small space? 3. Is having a mixed approach even worth it? Ie. Block walls and SIP roof (given the price of timber these days) 4. Roof style, any advantages/disadvantages over having the pitch one way or another etc. Any other thoughts appreciated.

Please critique. The house is proposed as an extension to existing banglow plus new garden room (65sqm) Last image is the option 2 for the ground floor layout which I prefer compared to the original per the plan. Main house layout is biased more towards better design but scarificies the potential space still achieving around 500sqm. Would be great to have some feedback on everything. Thanks

Hi, I'm looking for some advice in relation to building regulation compliance for outbuildings. I'm looking to build a garden office of over 15m2 but less than 30m2 it will be sited within 1m of our boundary on 3 sides. I understand that while this does not need to be compliant with full building regulations the building must be non-combustible due to proximity to the boundaries. I'd like to understand what would need to be done to make the building fire resistant. My plan is to construct the building using a timber frame or SIPs. Are these completely non compliant since they are combustible materials or is it more about the external cladding, which in this case would be sheet steel to the 3 sides facing the boundary and composite / Canadian red cedar to the front. I've seen similar issues posted on this forum but nothing conclusive on what level of fire proofing or is required in this situation. Many thanks in advance

I'm building a garden room less than 30 square meters and at least 1m from any boundary. I would like to put a kitchenette in here, is this permissible without planning permission?

I find myself potentially in the insane scenario of having to prove the existence of a mezzanine level in an outbuilding. In brief, this is critical to the LPA I'm dealing with approving the new 1st storey in the outbuilding which replaced it. Now, not trusting the LPA in question as far as I could launch them in to the sea (we can but dream...), I am trying to work out how to definitively prove the existence of this now demolished mezzanine. Bear in mind: last time I submitted actual photographic evidence of it, and the officer just calmly ignored it and refused my app due to its 150%+ floor increase... So my question is: when is a mezzanine not a mezzanine? Does it need a permanent ladder or access? Must said access be fixed rather than a free-standing ladder? Must it be load-bearing, demonstrably? Does the fact that the previous building had a 1st storey gable window help? Does it help that said barn had first storey side "hatches", presumably where hay was once ejected? It would send me over the edge with rage if the existence of said mezzanine were once again thrown out, on a micro technicality.

Hello, I am constructing a small shed (3.5m x 2.2m) that will be used only for storage. I want to render the external walls with the K-Rend silicone render to match my outbuilding and my house. I was wondering if you could help me understand what the best way to construct the shed is so that it does not cost a lot and can be rendered. My ideas: - wooden frame + OSD (not sure how easy it is to render over it) - wooden frame + cement board (seems like the way to go) - blocks (seems like a lot more work and expense) any suggestions would be very much appreciated.

Good Evening, I am building a new outbuilding in my back garden. I am trying to figure out what the best electric heating solution (CH + HW) would be and I would like to ask you for your opinions here. The outbuilding will contain an office, a gym and a small bathroom with a steam shower unit and a sink as per the plan below. It will be used throughout the year on a pretty much daily basis. I initially thought about using electric heating mats for my UFH and a small boiler for my hot water needs but now I think there may be a better, more cost effective solution. I have seen a number of threads talking about ASHP, Ampec flow boilers and Willis heaters. It made me think about fitting a wet underfloor heating system and using one of the solutions but honestly speaking I am not sure what would be best as my knowledge and experience is limited. I would be very grateful for any advice. Martin

Hello everyone, I have planning permission for an outbuilding. 8.5 x 3 m I have had ridiculous quotes for over 30k! So thought I could do it cheaper than that. I plan to build single skin block work and clad in wood (eventually, planners made me do it). My planning expires this November so there is a sense of urgency to get it out the ground. Can you please advise me on footings? How deep (on clay ground) should I dig my footings? I thought 1m but when we built our big extension it ended up 2m deep but that was for a cavity wall build. I am also wondering how much cement to pour (in depth), should it be 450mm or more? Then what blocks do I use for the first few courses? I think they should be more engineering blocks or something like that. Its not a big building it is only single skin, I don't want to end up putting all my money in the ground. Advice appreciated. I have the digger booked so I need to give him instructions on what to dig. All help very much appreciated, thank you.

Hi Folks, My first post here. I have so far put down an elevated concrete pad (30cm high) and have also built the walls out of solid dense 7.3N concrete blocks.Aas it stands the height of the highest block is 2.73m high including the concrete pad height (front of build). The problem is once the single-pitched roof is on the building height will be roughly 3.10m high. I have since been doing some digging and it seems the building may be too high? I have attached an image below so you can see the plan. I know people who have buildings just as high and some higher! that actually touch the boundaries of their neighbours and have been passed by the local council (Norwich, UK). So I'm confused as to what is ACTUALLY permissible and what's not, given the information online and the contradictory reality. Can somebody help? Also is there anything else I need to think about given the size of the building. Thanks

Hi everyone, We have recently downsized and bought a lovely 2 bed cottage. At the moment we still have our youngest son living with us who is working from home at present. We are currently converting an old brick outbuilding into a study (mostly for his use as he is using the dining-room at present!) and nothing is a standard size! I appreciate that we could have a wooden door 'made to measure' but time is now of the essence as I am also now having to work partly from home. I wondered if any of you far more experienced people know of any companies that have odd sized doors in stock. Ours measures 1981x685mm or 78x27"

We have an existing 3m tall garage/workshop which sits alongside the house but partially in front of the principle elevation. It is war-time era (probably built before the house in fact which is a 1960's bungalow) and constructed from concrete block walls with Asbestos roof sheeting.....yes I know the 'A' word!. For this reason as well as the fact it leaks and is an eye sore, we are looking to replace the roof with new trusses and tiles. Under permitted development we have read that, provided the various criteria is met, any outbuilding if fitted with a dual pitch roof can be 2.5m at the eaves and 4m at the peak. This is what we should like to install as the replacement, but we are unsure how PD applies to existing outbuildings and although we meet all the remaining criteria there is the issue that some of the garage does sit just in-front of the main dwelling. Has anyone had a similar scenario & have any useful knowledge they could share with us please?

http://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/greater-manchester-news/mum-told-needs-planning-permission-12086429#rlabs=4 rt$sitewide p$1 "An astonished mum has been told she must get planning permission for her daughter’s wendy house."