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Hi All We are installing some timber casement style, toughened and double glazed windows. The reflections in the glass are incredible distorted and warping. we find it incredibly ugly: please take a look at the video below or follow these links to a youtube / google photos video: https://youtu.be/nL4GE2H9B10 And some more on google photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/AvvSsvkgk69mhm9P6 We're pretty devastated and keen to work out if this is poor manufacturing etc? the joiner and glass company claim this is normal. but ive never seen anything like this and im sure i would have noticed. Is this normal? Is it poor quality? Any advice would be a huge help. thank you., Many thanks for your time! Charlie WARP8.mov

Hi, I'm new to the site. I'm not a pro just a keen DIY'er. Been reading some great posts about bathroom installations on here. I'm currently building my first wetroom bathroom in my house, a complete remodelling project. Walls moved, joists strengthened, services re-routed, new bulkhead the lot.. Wetroom constructed using abacus elements inline showertray 1800x900 and waterproof (tileable) element boards and sealed with waterproof tape. All good so far. I'm going to be tiling wetroom tray and floor flush in porcelain tile. 800x400 tiles with envelope cuts to accomodate fall in the tray. Things that's bugging me a bit is the installation of the 10mm shower glass screen - Glass will be mounted from the corner of the wall using an aluminium F bracket so that glass sits out onto the tray surface. (You'll see in the photo by what I mean - as the shower tray sits within in a recess). Wall bracket has to be installed prior to tiling. Rubber seal set into the the bracket and glass to be inserted. Which I'm told will be very tight and tough to remove once in place. Which leads me to this next part. I also have an aluminium channel that's meant to be installed at time of tiling which is to be set into the floor and tiled to either side. Now I can see several issues with this. One of them being a massive ball ache getting that installed esp. with the wall bracket that holds the glass securely and then the faf with the tiles. I seen a post by someone on here in 2017 with a reply from 'NickfromWales' surface mounting glass directly onto the tile with CT1. I'm tempted to launch the floor channel and go down that route. Nick, How's the CT1 holding up - glass still secure? Other option that I am considering is to install glass first directly onto wetroom tray using CT1 then tile up to the glass and seal. But then I'll have a potential issue at the base of the glass that could leak in the future with that method due to the split in the tiled floor. I've also got a top mounted support bar to hold glass in place. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Kev

Soon after our windows were fitted last September we noticed two defects in one of the large panes. We were told this was part of the manufacturing process and one of the risks of getting a large pane of glass. The pane in question is about 3 m x 2 m. We have 12 such panes of glass in our house and none of the others have any defects. Other than this window, we are absolutely delighted. At the time we raised it with the UK distributor of the windows. They agreed it was unacceptable. They raised it with the European supplier who noted it was part of the acceptable defects that may appear in a pane of glass this size. Now that the walls of the room are plastered and painted, the sun reflects through the defect and puts a rather hideous shadow onto the wall. Does anyone else have any defects on large panes of glass? Are such defects normal? Windows are aluminium clad, triple glazed. Supplier and distributor shall remain nameless, currently, as I dearly want to get this resolved. The only resolution for me is a replacement pane of glass, fully paid for by the supplier, including transport and fitting. That would be honouring our original contract in my opinion. We have been offered a compensation sum of about a 10th of the cost of the entire window. The windows were very expensive. I don’t want to wake up to that shadow every morning. Photos show the shadow on the wall and also the view out of the window when the scaffolding was in place showing the distortion in the view. Any thoughts welcome please.

What type of light switch have people chosen? We have a contemporary house and would like something different. We are just doing a traditional wire, no fancy light system.

This week the OH and I removed a bath and refitted a shower room for my (aging) parents. They didnt want to spend a huge amount and we ended up getting it all from B&Q - the Cooke and Lewis Exuberance Rectangular shower encosure with single sliding door and the Cooke and Lewis Lagan shower tray. The quality was quite good for the price, IMO, and we followed the instructions (pictures only) to the letter. We also followed @Nickfromwales's advice and used Sikaflex EBT to create an upstand when we positioned the tray against the wall. However, when we used the shower to test it out, there was a load of water coming from the base of the enclosure on the side wall nearest the shower, where it joins the wall. When constructed, the glass panels were slid into a metal (aluminium maybe) trim which in turn, slid into the section which we had glued and screwed to the wall. the base of the glass panels fixed into another trim but these also had a plastic thingy (technical term for the non-plumbers) which we think seals the glass into the trim so no water can get in. But not at the side panel. As the shower tray has a completely flat bit for the enclosure to sit on, we were a bit concerned about water seeping under the enclosure as we hadnt been told to stick it down with sealant. So I used some Sikaflex and applied a thin bead all around the base, sealing the bottom of the enclosure to the tray, on the inside. The water seems to be getting through the part where the glass panel fits into the first metal trim. It does seems strange that it did not need sealant or a plastic/rubber seal. But I wonder if I actually created the problem here. Maybe the design is for the water to get into that area but then drain out the bottom - although what would stop it draining out the outside, I dont know. In the end some clear CT1 in a bead all the way up that join seems to have slowed the water escaping but not completely. At least it was just seeping slowly out rather than pouring out. And that was with the shower head pointing straight at it, which isnt going to happen under normal use. Was it me or the design? The bit where we think the water is getting through is that black line where the glass was slid into the metal trim, which then slid into the wall trim, already fixed to the wall.You can see the thin bead of sikaflex that I applied all round the base.

We plan to have about 5 square meters of roof light. It's above our Winter Garden. (1720 by 3200) On a partially protected South West face The darkish area below the roof is an open, barn-style set of baffles. ... I'm thinking about our equinoxial gales, and the occasional hoolie. The area to the right of the glazing is meant to represent solar PV I'm wondering whether polycarbonate is the best choice? Or maybe 4 toughened glass sheets? I have no experience of polycarbonate at all. I've looked at too many videos. I'm all over the place and wonder what your experience is? Ian

Hi All. For those of you I haven't had the pleasure of speaking to yet, I'm planning a self build but during the day I'm chief technical at a fairly large manufacturer of windows/doors/glazing based in London/Herts. A few of you have PM'ed me with glazing questions so I thought it best to make a separate thread for sharing any info. If anyone needs help with technical details, specification, getting trade prices, e.t.c. fire away. My way of giving back for all the great construction advice I've already received here.

The trouble with holidays is that they give @MrsRA time to think. And dream. She's set her heart on an internal folding glass door (2.8m by about 3m). I notice that there are any number of suppliers out there. And that makes me wonder how to filter them - other than by price? What to avoid? Any recommendations? Ian